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  #22  
Old 03-11-2011
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Default Water pump removal

Some people remove the plastic fan guard to give you a little more room. This also houses the radiator fan.... I left it in.... after fidling an swearing trying to get it out I gave up and in hind sight I didn't need to other than to give me a little more room.

Attach the tool seen in previous post to two of the holes located on the spindle where the belt is spun around. Stabilise it (I wedged it against the belt on the aircon compressor). Turn a size 24 spanner anti-clockwise to losen the fan off the water pump and move it out of the way. (Pic 1 blue is the water pump and red is the stupid nut you need to get off)

Use a size 15 socket and rotate the tension pully, located on the drivers side of the engine close to the fan, clockwise to losen the serpentine belt off the system. Once the belt is off the system remove both the tensioner pully and the other pully with a size 15. socket (pic 2 blue is the tensioner and red is the othe pully)

Once both pullies are off use a size 13 socket to remove a total of eight bolts and place them in order they came off as they are different lengths. These you get to from both the top and bottom of the engine. Once bolts are off wiggle the pump and it should come free. there will be a little bit of residue left where the old pump was so I used a sharp blade and a scrapping motion to remove the residue and wipe it all off with a cloth.... sorry no pic of this part as I had my hands full... HINT: write on the engine block where no 1 started and then mark each bolt as they come out.....

Placed the new pump back in being carefull not to bump the cast iron part on anything so it didnt chip. I placed the bolts back following the numbers from the mark on the engine block.
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Last edited by Jeep'ers; 03-11-2011 at 05:42 PM.
  #23  
Old 03-11-2011
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This thread is now a Sticky and will appear at the front of the KJ Forum.
  #24  
Old 03-11-2011
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Default Coolant (Organic HAOT ONLY) i.e RED stuff premixed works fine

Once the pump was in, I did the opposite with the tool wedging it against the alternator with a bit of the old belt to prevent damage on the teeth of the alternator and tightened the fan back on using the spanner clockwise.

Replaced the pullies and put the new belt on. The belt diagram is located on the front of the crossmember holding in the radiator. Be sure you follow this exactly!!

Remove the top hose (pic 1) of the radiator and flush out the remaining coolant in the radiator with your hose pipe until the water comes out clear. Allow to drain and the replace the bottom hose of radiator and fill radiator via the top hose from engine block replace hose when radiator is full. Replace coolant in the coolant bottle and turn your heater on full and allow the engine to run until warm.

This allows the thermostat to open and check you are getting return to the coolant bottle via the small hose. (pic 2 the hose nearest to the fire wall not the one attached toradiator cap)

Allow the engine to cool and top up the coolant bottle until the coolant reaches the "cold fill line" (pic 3)
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  #25  
Old 03-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agisfang View Post
Thanks, this is a great help to those of us newer people.

Im up to 96,000km ....checked around, in brisbane Westside 4x4 want about half of what a jeep dealership wants, and other mechanics are all around the 3/4 mark of what the jeep dealership wants.
might be time to buy some new tools and follow your thread.
My total cost was around 550 total, and a days work! I'll lend a hand or a tool or two if you are around Sydney...
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Last edited by Jeep'ers; 03-11-2011 at 08:22 PM.
  #26  
Old 05-11-2011
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Jeep'ers

Just so people are clear there are 2 filters in the trans, A spin on type (im assuming this is for the torque converter) and a pan type ( believe for vale body). That's how the 2.8 CRD is any way

Or only the one with the 3.7??
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  #27  
Old 05-11-2011
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Re the transmission filters (at least if you have the 545RFE tranny): one big flat one in the pan, and the small spin on one gets the fluid from the cooler line. Don't forget to change the Anit-drainback valve as well, this stops fluid from draining back into the pan when the KJ is sitting for a while (the most common cause of slow transmission engagement after a startup following a prolonged spell of sitting).
  #28  
Old 05-11-2011
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Jeep'ers

Just so people are clear there are 2 filters in the trans, A spin on type (im assuming this is for the torque converter) and a pan type ( believe for vale body). That's how the 2.8 CRD is any way

Or only the one with the 3.7??
I only replaced the one in the time I had... I'll double check my build manual and see what exactly is needed and how many filters it has, I didn't replace much with it due to time unfortunately... I'll get back to you about total filters in the 3.7l
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