And on to Arnhem Land and Nhulunbuy...
The time had come to uproot from Katherine, head south for 50km, and turn left onto the Central Arnhem Road. Heading east, Arnhem Land and Nhulunbuy were the end stop of a trip I had been dreaming of for several years.
The road was a bit of everything: dirt, corrugations, bloody corrugations, bull dust, jump ups, wash outs, mud, rock, pigs, cattle, kangaroos, caravans, trailers and bloody mad (really bloody mad) drivers who would overtake in dust at break neck speeds. Why?
First stop after about 320kms was Mainoru. Here you could get diesel and unleaded petrol (95RON) at reasonable prices (about $2.87 for the unleaded and more for diesel … sorry I did not notice the diesel price). This part of the road was quite well maintained with all the elements above but none too severe to deal with. East of Mainoru was a different story: the road deteriorated the further east you went, all manageable but bad to badder, all the same. The worse section started about 150Km from Nhulunbuy, as it had been sodden by recent rain and cut up to buggery by everyone and everything travelling on it before it dried out.
I camped overnight at a road base site. Quite nice sunset and sunrise and some cheeky crows.
My Arnhem camp site was on the coast about 30kms west of Nhulunbuy at a place called Macassan Beach (or Garanhan). The road in from the Central Arnhem Road was about 13kms of ruts, bog holes, mud, water, washaways and rock that took about an hour to traverse. No big deal.
The actual campsite was a disappointment, being little more that rock and an uneven and not very large sandy area. Admittedly other nearby sites (only 4 more) were better in terms of access and how they looked. I got the runt of the litter, I think. There was a working long drop dunny.
The area was very windy, with speeds hitting 30Knots at time and it was simply impossible to expect a tent stay upright overnight. Notice the lean on the trees in the first picture brought about by the constant force of the wind. I camped/slept in the JKU as I had been. Other camping areas such as Turtle Beach were much more protected but alas, I missed out on the lottery for this one. There were some interesting walks to be taken, which I did, but nothing really to see that was not available elsewhere. Some of the historical artefacts were worth the view but that was about all.
I visited Nhulunbuy but was not that impressed. The common areas were clean (just) and contrasted to the sparkling whiteness of the “whitey” areas of the town. The central shopping centre did not have permanent toilets. I mean, really! The town had other resources that you would expect but gee, after decades of ownership/stewardship by mining giants, you would think that more could have been done. People were nice and helpful.
Mmm, well I am still undecided whether or not I was impressed by the scenery. I don’t think that I was if I was honest. Why don’t places you visit look like the brochures? Beaches, such as they were, were small and nothing to boast about. The boat club looked run down to me, rather unlike in brochures, and it needed a good tidy up. The Town Lagoon was a stinking swamp and I saw only one type of water bird. Where were the others. I saw more in Katherine and Lawn Hill.
I travelled the same road back and stayed in a cabin overnight at Mainoru. This is a nice rest area with a good caravan park (unpowered), clean cabins ($160/night) and they do a light evening meal. Within a kilometre of leaving this place I slowed down to a near stop at a concrete washaway and bugger me dead if a wild pig (a big bugger too) skidded arse up in front of the JKU. It stood up looking dazed and shocked. If looks could kill, that pig would have had me dead. It missed its own death or maiming by a centimetre I reckon. I had no more incidents like this but the kamikaze drivers were a bit over the top. While at Mainoru there were a couple of electricians on their way to Nhulunbuy. Speaking with them, one told me that they regularly drive company utes along this way at speeds of 140km/hr and sometimes, one said, they get airborne. I was astounded. They didn't care they said because they were in company cars. I asked them "What about your kids and wives, when you end up dead"? Didn't think about that, they said. Jeez!
Anyway, I guess the trip was worth it, if not as expected. But it is not a place I would visit twice.
I will add some pictures.
Last edited by humdingerslammer; 30-07-2022 at 06:53 PM.
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