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24-03-2018
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CrawlerStar
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 402 What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 88
Liked 111 Times in 90 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luminol
Yeah it was a complete system but I've read some places suggesting it needs s good bleed even if a sealed unit
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How did you go ??
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24-03-2018
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Established Member
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 227 What Jeep do I drive?: TJ
Likes: 49
Liked 60 Times in 39 Posts
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The sealled master/slave units often get air in through the breather hole (in the cap on the master cylinder), partially when shipped by air freight.
Gravity bleeding these units is problematic and I find it's easiest done, removed, with two people; one has the master secured up high doing the top up (and taps the line with something to free up stuck bubbles), while the other simultaneously pumps the slave until its completely free of air. Although it may work ok, the slightest air bubble left in the line will make your clutch depress in segments.
Also, when replacing the clutch, don't bother machining the flywheel as every time I've tried this I get shuddering issues, just buy a new one, their only a little over $100 bucks on ebay.
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28-03-2018
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Established Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: West Midlands, UK
Posts: 123 What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 27
Liked 33 Times in 28 Posts
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Hi,
Sorry for delay,
I took the slave out and whilst pumping it with my hand had my dad tapping the hose in various places and the lquid went down by about half, topped it up and did it a few more times but nothing changed but together.
Drove for about 20 mins next day all was fine the same issue. It has improved but think I need to do it again. There must definitely be air in there or something as its fine and then goes difficult after a short while.
There are no kinks and pumping the pedal is the only thing that rectifies it.
Im going to get under and do the same again for longer to see if there are bubbles elsewhere hiding.
Its pretty annoying as I can’t really drive far with it. Its not close to the exhaust or anything, the closest is the exhaust pipe that’s goes to the blanked of egr but that has its own heat protection on it.
Must be hydraulic and air right or the clutch wouldn’t work at all? Fine if the engines off though. It can be super difficult to put in when engine on, shut it off and bam, straight in to gear!
__________________
1996 XJ Cherokee Red Sport 2.5TD
150,000+ Miles
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29-03-2018
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Grumpy Old XJ Dsl Owner
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Northern Victoria
Posts: 13,781 What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 4,579
Liked 6,550 Times in 4,342 Posts
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When I do a bleed, I like to use a different colored fluid. That way I can tell when all the old fluid (& air) is gone. If you have a slave with a bleed nipple (some dont & require a different bleed process) always put 1//2 m of clear plastic tube on the nipple so you can see if there is air in the fluid.
__________________
98&01XJVMs,06&07KJCRD's,No longer question authority,I annoy it.More effect,less effort.10000Club
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29-03-2018
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Full Flexer
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Central Vic
Posts: 797 What Jeep do I drive?: WG
Likes: 23
Liked 283 Times in 208 Posts
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You definitely have a clutch problem not a gearbox problem, when you are satisfied the hydraulics are fully bled and working fine and it still gives problem, then you will need to consider your new clutch pressure plate may well be faulty.
I as a habit now when I do clutch jobs for clients will only fit genuine clutches as I have had too many comebacks with non genuine clutches.
When PBR and repco made replacements locally i would use them as well but now all the aftermarket replacements seem to be coming from 3rd world countries and the quality is to variable.
And as a big percentage of the cost of a clutch job is the labor component especially on fwd and 4wd vehicles it is a no-brainer to use genuine.
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