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  #8  
Old 14-09-2017
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Paul-JK  Paul-JK is offline
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Never really heard of injector issues, though that doesn't mean they don't exist. Mine had 140,000km on it when I sold it and I'd never had an issue with them. The timing belt is a fairly costly exercise and that is every 100,000km but it pays to do it earlier than that.

Off road the CRD is generally easier as it gets more torque lower down so your not having to rev the hell of it all of the time. I guess that allows a bit more control. That said, clearly the petrol does OK seeing that that is all they offer in the US. The petrol may well be better in soft sand as it develops more power higher in the rev range and that is where you'll want to be to keep up momentum.

For the sort of driving you describe I'd personally be going for a CRD. If you go an auto factor in an extra transmission cooler as well. I could get mine overheating on decent hills even when it wasn't that hot outside. That said, I think either will do the job well enough. At the end of the day I'd be driving both and seeing which you prefer to drive. If you're looking at $ comparisons you can do it all day and justify whatever you want but if you don't enjoy driving it then what's the point. Get the one you like the most and work around it's shortcomings.

Never personally heard of anyone doing the V6 swap. Assuming it physically fits I'd be guessing the main issues will be electrical and getting everything to talk to everything else. Of course if the JL uses that engine then the swap may get much easier once it's released, assuming in does fit into a JK chassis.
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  #9  
Old 15-09-2017
G.man  G.man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul-JK View Post
Never really heard of injector issues, though that doesn't mean they don't exist. Mine had 140,000km on it when I sold it and I'd never had an issue with them. The timing belt is a fairly costly exercise and that is every 100,000km but it pays to do it earlier than that.

Off road the CRD is generally easier as it gets more torque lower down so your not having to rev the hell of it all of the time. I guess that allows a bit more control. That said, clearly the petrol does OK seeing that that is all they offer in the US. The petrol may well be better in soft sand as it develops more power higher in the rev range and that is where you'll want to be to keep up momentum.

For the sort of driving you describe I'd personally be going for a CRD. If you go an auto factor in an extra transmission cooler as well. I could get mine overheating on decent hills even when it wasn't that hot outside. That said, I think either will do the job well enough. At the end of the day I'd be driving both and seeing which you prefer to drive. If you're looking at $ comparisons you can do it all day and justify whatever you want but if you don't enjoy driving it then what's the point. Get the one you like the most and work around it's shortcomings.

Never personally heard of anyone doing the V6 swap. Assuming it physically fits I'd be guessing the main issues will be electrical and getting everything to talk to everything else. Of course if the JL uses that engine then the swap may get much easier once it's released, assuming in does fit into a JK chassis.

Does the timing belt really have to get changed?

I'm just asking because we had our timing belt (300,000 km over due) replaced on our toyota and when it came out it still had markings on it as if it was new and did not need replacing. Was a $1200 (friend rate vs the 2000 quoted) expense for absolutely nothing.

That car could have gone 500,000 without changing the timing belt.

So I am just wondering on the diesel is it a must? What did yours look like when you changed it... did it look like it could have gone 2-3x more or what?

What would the expense be to do the timing belt?

Everywhere I drive = 100km. At 30,000km a year... that would essentially mean timing belt every 3 years @ x-$ ?

For me... if I go purely based on what I like... a V8 6.1 Hemi with 500+ horsepower would be great, but I also know the cost in fuel will make that vehicle not affordable to use, and again, thats why we got cars to have fun driving that way.

To me the power (accelerating off the lights) is irrelevant. If I want that, I would drive a muscle car.

I have been in a 4.2L Turbo Diesel 80 Series land cruiser MultiValve - which is one of the 1milion km solid engines... 1HD-FTE.

To me the way that felt in terms of on road... was beautiful. Doesn't need to accelerate any faster than that did.

My concern with Diesel was more or less for off-road ability. It not accelerating like a petrol, I wondered if that would cause it to get more stuck than a petrol, you know... accelerating and it barely moving and therefor not able to climb because it doesn't have the momentum to pull upwards. On the other hand... since they do have all that torque compare to a petrol... then maybe it just like a snail pulls upwards regardless of momentum just because it can, slow and steady up she goes and therefor less likely to get stuck than tires trying to spin up in loose stuff digging you in rather than pulling you up. - This I wasn't sure about... ?

So what would I prefer, based on my experience with the 4.2 1HD-FTE turbo diesel of the 80 series... I love Diesel.

I just don't know how the CRD compares to that in terms of reliability and if it becomes some huge expense (every 1-3 years with thousands upon thousands going into it)... well that isn't manageable. Hence I am trying to work out which way to go... btw if this is of any use... I am not the sort to buy/sell/buy/sell. Once I get the JKU, I plan to build it up, 35-37" tires. Diff locks front and rear, Long range fuel tank installed, CB radio (heard never to go out there without one... more a safety thing) and yeah, a proper built for touring/camping 4x4 that has what you need for any situation. So it isn't something I would sell at X km. It should last me next 30+ years.

Last edited by G.man; 15-09-2017 at 07:50 AM.
  #10  
Old 15-09-2017
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From memory the timing belt did need changing. I had mine done at a 90,000km as I was getting some strange noises (which I think was one of the pulleys). The timing belt itself is not massively expensive but the general rule of thumb is to do the serpentine belt, pulleys & water pumps while you're in there. That adds to cost but saves you having to pull it all apart later if one of the other parts fails.

Owning a JK you will certainly learn to research what you buy and not just rely on dealers or the usual local parts guys that probably service your Toyota well. Parts here are generally very expensive. Most stuff is available from the US at a fraction of the price, even including freight, though you do need to be careful of the whole left-hand-drive/right-hand-drive thing depending on what you're buying, and also note that Australian ADR's a lot more strict than the US equivalent so not everything that is sold in the US is legal here. The 2.8 CRD isn't available in the US but parts can be bought relatively cheap (certainly cheaper than here) from the UK.

One other thing to be aware of (well two actually) is that compared to a Landcruiser the JK has very very limited space for carrying stuff, even the 4dr. Small rear overhang means a short boot. It has a deceptively narrow body as well and the roll cage takes up a lot of what space it does have. I had Nissan X-Trail before my JK and it had WAY more load space than the JK. Packing a JK is an art form. Coupled with that the JK also has a fairly lousy payload. Add a front bar, some decent rock rails/side steps (very advisable on the 4dr), a roof rack for the bulky light stuff and then pack it up for a trip and you'll be at GVM easily. Add long range tanks, roof top tent, bigger axles, 37's and a rear bar (as you'll need it carry the 37" spare) and I seriously doubt you could keep it legal in terms of GVM even before loading it for a trip. With that sort a build I think you'd need to look at a trailer to carry the camping stuff for long trips to keep it legal.......and the trailer also helps out with the packing space issue as well. Horses for courses at the end off the day. The JK is a great 4WD and great fun to drive, but it wasn't designed to haul loads. I toured in mine with a camper trailer and it was great but mine was only a modest build (33's, 2" lift, front bar & side steps).
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  #11  
Old 15-09-2017
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Even the Toyota recommend the timing belt changed after km and time. We swapped ours out well before 100k before a long outback trip as a guarantee. Sure, it isn't a cheap belt to buy and replace and it is well made, but compared to a belt failure and the damage to the engine it's better to swap it out.

Agree regarding the limited space on the JK for a camping trip. Hoping the JT Scrambler will be a better outback trip option...
  #12  
Old 15-09-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.man View Post
Does the timing belt really have to get changed?

I'm just asking because we had our timing belt (300,000 km over due) replaced on our toyota and when it came out it still had markings on it as if it was new and did not need replacing. Was a $1200 (friend rate vs the 2000 quoted) expense for absolutely nothing.

That car could have gone 500,000 without changing the timing belt.

.
The consequence of timing belt failure whilst driving on most makes engine designs is nearly catastrophic for your wallet and not so good for the engine.
Most makes build interference engines and when the rubber band breaks the metal nearly always meets the metal.

Toyota on the other hand for many years built all their engines as non-interference design and a on road timing belt failure was only an inconvenience of a tow and paying for the belts subsequent replacement.
But more recently toyota engine designs are becoming increasingly interference design and why would you want to risk failure with the result being a tow, a major top end rebuild with the car likely sidelined for weeks maybe months?

I have occasionally over the years seen some cars come in with the timing belts overdue by 30,000kms and even saw one with 70,000kms overdue and the belts still looked healthy when removed but I have also seen some belts fail early because the owner decided it wasn't ready for replacement because the car had not reached the required KM's and forgot most belts are lifetime limited as well because rubber perishes with heat and exposure to oxygen.
And on recent vehicle at a colleagues workshop the repair bill for a failed timing belt ran to in excess of $8000 because the head could not be repaired and needed to be replaced as well as one holed piston.
  #13  
Old 15-09-2017
mick666  mick666 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic Boy View Post
The consequence of timing belt failure whilst driving on most makes engine designs is nearly catastrophic for your wallet and not so good for the engine.
Most makes build interference engines and when the rubber band breaks the metal nearly always meets the metal.

Toyota on the other hand for many years built all their engines as non-interference design and a on road timing belt failure was only an inconvenience of a tow and paying for the belts subsequent replacement.
But more recently toyota engine designs are becoming increasingly interference design and why would you want to risk failure with the result being a tow, a major top end rebuild with the car likely sidelined for weeks maybe months?

I have occasionally over the years seen some cars come in with the timing belts overdue by 30,000kms and even saw one with 70,000kms overdue and the belts still looked healthy when removed but I have also seen some belts fail early because the owner decided it wasn't ready for replacement because the car had not reached the required KM's and forgot most belts are lifetime limited as well because rubber perishes with heat and exposure to oxygen.
And on recent vehicle at a colleagues workshop the repair bill for a failed timing belt ran to in excess of $8000 because the head could not be repaired and needed to be replaced as well as one holed piston.
I dont think my timing belt is made of rubber.
  #14  
Old 15-09-2017
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Sounds like you should go buy an 80 series 4.2 1HD-FTE

CRD's will not tolerate the type of neglect some seem to consider normal or acceptable.


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