Converting a Update 4.0L XJ to a 5sp Manual AX15

[Mudmonster]

I have recently had quite a few people asking me about a manual conversion,



so here is some info

here is the basics what you need.
1. will need a TJ wrangler flywheel
2. slave and master cylinder either a XJ diesel or a TJ fits as well
3. the pedal box out of the diesel XJ or a TJ might be the same
4. clutch kit (I got a stage 1 clutch kit from the US). http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170860737...84.m1438.l2649
5. a Diesel rear drive shaft and yoke (or you may be able to fit the NP 242 transfer to the diesel 5sp box and run the auto shaft not too sure)
6. a diesel cross member and mount.
7. a diesel gear box, or they are an AX15 also used in the TJ 97-05, make sure its an AX15 and not an Ax5.
8. longer flywheel bolts (cant remember the size i got)
10. a clutch release spring if it is broken from the dealership (will need to order one in) part No CH-04338855 the are $13.15
quite expensive for a little spring but cant find any like it aftermarket.
11. clutch release fork if not provided with the gearbox

Important Note:
the gearbox once bolted to the 4.0l will sit back approx 20mm, therefore will not bolt up to the factory cross member mounts,
so a custom one will need to be made.
i put in 2 studs in the chassis either side, cut a piece of 2mm rectangle rhs, drilled some holes marking off the cross member, welded some bolts to go through to mount the cross member.
see pic below:









also the rear drive shaft will need to be shortened will depend on lift, i require 20mm to be cut out on a 50mm lift.
front drive shaft may need to be extended depending on lift.
transfer linkage will not line up, will need to be modified or contact Wooders and enquire about the Novak linkage conversion.
when in second gear it just hit the console.


The AX15 will bolt straight up the 4.0L engine with no modification, the 4.0L starter motor also bolts straight up and so does the crank sensor.
once you have removed the auto box and flywheel.
1. measure and get the correct size bolts to mount the flywheel
2. fit the pilot/spigot bearing (provided in the clutch kit)
3. fit the clutch kit
4. fit the clutch release fork, spring and throw out bearing.
5. fit the gearbox to the 4.0l
6. fit the cross member and your new custom gearbox mounts.
7. fit the pedal box
8. fit the slave and master cylinder
9. fit crank sensor
10. fit the starter motor
11. Fit the modified drive shafts
12. fit your modified transfer linkage

easy part is now done.

Electrical:

find the plug that had the wires that ran down to the auto (see pic below)

i cut the wires from behind the plug on the main engine loom (ill take some pics) colours are DB/WT + and BR/LG - (i will double check ASAP and correct if im wrong)
these are for the reverse light, run them down and connect up, if you don't have the plug for the reverse switch can cut and join.
run the black wire to a GOOD earth, i have ran the black wire to a switch, once you flick the switch, you turn the key it wont turn the engine over, its like being in drive.
once this is done plug the speedo and transfer wires up, plugs are the same a on petrol and diesel.
Turn the key and away you go.

any questions feel free to ask

[bruggz351]

Nice one Mm. Well done.
This is good info.

cheers

[anthonygubbin]

What's the reasoning behind it MM? Just because you can? I like the idea of building an XJ with a worked 265 Hemi and a 727 behind that. Get rid of the TC and have something just to blast around in on the streets. I would want a Limited though Sports are too basic for the DD that never gets off road.

Regards A

[junglejuice]

Some good info there for those interested in such a mod, but I gotta say that having a shorter rear tailshaft will make slightly more prone to vibration, using the spacer on the crossmember reduces ground clearance and the manual makes it less capable everywhere offroad (except downhill) along with cramped pedal area it's not a mod I would choose to do....

On a side note, the front shaft from a diesel might be a better length then the petrol unit if the t/case is further back as it appears to be unless it is just the gearbox mount that is further back...

[anthonygubbin]

I think there is only one advantage with a manual offroad. It means you can stick it in 1st and crawl down hill without any brakes.

Regards A

[Mudmonster]

A
I did it for something different and because I had everything to do it,
also quite a few people have contacted me for info about doing as well so thought I would do a thread

JJ
the spacer has dropped the trans 25mm, its not my preferred option, I am going to try and make a different mount down the track to lift it back up.

The ute that I built with the 4.0l manual is in isn't going to see much off road use.

on a top side it might get better Fuel economy??

[Deezelweazel]

You will recognize some fun since the gear box of a Diesel is different from a petrol.
Keep the harmonic damper on the tail of the tranny, sucks up a lot of vibrations- which otherwise could give you trouble.

Cool Idea MM.
Expect a lower fuel consumption about a liter.
At least this is the difference when you compare two passengers cars with the same engine, one auto the other manual.

Fitting the NP 242 is difficult,but can be done. You need the correct drive shaft from the tranny. Can't remember if the shaft was to long or to short.
A friend of mine has converted his Diesel with a NP242. He had to exchange the shaft. But he can go 4x4 permanently now.