Engine blew and replaced

[bodgie]

Originally Posted by Briaineo

Just to update

Fixed the air in the fuel line issue, all good starting on the button.

Good to hear.

Originally Posted by Briaineo

Checked the injector heights and number one seems to be sitting a bit higher than the rest. Will remove and check for extra copper.

How much higher, 2-3 mm or lower?

Originally Posted by Briaineo

Read the fault codes with software; p340, p700 and p1130 same codes you get by turning the key, although you can’t get the trans codes this was they were 2602 and 2310

P0340 is related to the crankshaft position sensor, could be a failed part. Usually the easiest thing to do is replace it as they don't last forever.

P0700 is transmission related, could be related to the front connector on the transmission being bad which is a cheap and easy repair. Could also be a bad control solenoid or any number of other things.

P1130 is fuel pressure related, mine always has an 1130 for some reason, seems normal on some cars. It may also exist because of the air in the low pressure system. If the engine is running well, I wouldn't be too worried.


Can't find anything on the transmission codes at the moment.

Jason

[Briaineo]

Thanks for all the replies

Number 1 injector seems higher by approx 3mm I reckon.

Just a quick one on the P340 code; when I look it up it mentions camshaft position sensor this the same or different to the crankcase sensor?

The p1130 code possibly was always there, although cleared now I will see if it comes back.

Think the p700 seems to indicate that there is gearbox codes from what I read which would kind of make sense since you cannot view these codes by turning the key 3 times.

Thanks

[Adrian D]

P0340 is generally related to loss of sync between cam and crank sensors. For instance a failed start will trigger that code. Don't be alarmed. When the cam sensor fails you will get a no-start condition when hot and it will start once you cool the sensor.

Copper seals are 1.5mm thick, so you might have an extra seal there at #1

[Briaineo]

Just to update

Injector number 1 had a much thicker washer than it should have had. Replaced this with correct sized washer.

Still Smokey as hell even at idle, havnt done the egr delete yet, regarding the egr valve where is it located? Can’t seem to see it, is it on the inlet manifold side or the side with the turbo?

The Jeep runs fine on level surfaces just smokey but going up an incline it begins to shudder and I have to let my foot off the accelerator to stop this, then reapply to stop the shudders.

Have noticed if I put in a fuel additive is runs way better in terms of the incline.

Thinking there’s more to it than just the egr delete

[bodgie]

Originally Posted by Briaineo

Still Smokey as hell even at idle, havnt done the egr delete yet, regarding the egr valve where is it located? Can’t seem to see it, is it on the inlet manifold side or the side with the turbo?

EGR delete will help a lot if my experience is anything to go by.

Originally Posted by Briaineo

The Jeep runs fine on level surfaces just smokey but going up an incline it begins to shudder and I have to let my foot off the accelerator to stop this, then reapply to stop the shudders.

Fuel pressure regulator could be an issue, seems a bit odd though. Do you have any codes? Checked the leak back from the injectors?

Originally Posted by Briaineo

Have noticed if I put in a fuel additive is runs way better in terms of the incline.

Been there, experienced that. In the end the fuel pressure regulator fixed my weirdness.

Originally Posted by Briaineo

Thinking there’s more to it than just the egr delete

Very likely, common rails can be a problem to diagnose.