Here are some pics of the provisional location of the Provent. The clear hoses i had on hand were too stiff, so i have to get some more flexi ones... duh.
It's tucked in behind the radiator overflow tank, with the Provent bracket mounted to the fender inner. All fits and it's a tight twist to fit it in there but it can be done w/o moving the rad tank.
The Euro dudes and some of us have the Provent on the LH side of the firewall near the ABS stuff. Heaps of space there. I wanted to keep that space for the fuseboxes though (dual battery setup) and also keep the hose lengths short and away from the turbo.
The plan is to cut the CCV to inlet hose (19mm), insert 2 x 19mm elbows, then some 19mm/25mm hose to the Provent.
CCV puck and the inlet fittings(with sensor) are formed and i reckon it's best to leave the original hose connected to these. Also, if you want to remove the Provent it will be as simple as inserting an inline connector to rejoin the original hose.
The 25mm inlet hose will run in the gap b/w the rad tank and the brake booster reservoir; it's tight but i reckon i can get it to fit. The Return 25mm hose will run from the provent under the brake proportioning valve.
Hopefully the 25mm hose will have enough bend flexibility to get through the twisty bits without kinking. I'm going to use regular black fuel/hydraulic hose. The clear hose I used on the KJ is way too stiff and silicone hoses are bit too dear.
I'll try to get the hose today after work and see if I can knock this off tonight.
This write-up is dodgy-as atm, once i get everything sorted i'll tidy it up.
UPDATE: 09Aug:
OK, I've stuck the Provent into the WH and it's working well.
Location of the unit is here:
The fit behind the rad overflow bottle is very tight, but once installed the cap is very easy to remove.
The rad bottle will have to be moved aside to make way for the install (unless you have baby size hands). Bottle is only held on by one bolt (10mm head) and a keyed slot fenderside.
You'll want the Provent bracket sitting like this:
The bracket will bolt up to an existing M4 weld nut on the fender inner. the other side of the Provent, the pressure valve cap thingy will butt up against the brake booster. Once fitted it's solid. You'll have to cut the hose clip on the rad bottle (small plastic circle holding the overflow relief hose) and push the hose to the fender side of the bottle. There's no space for the provent and the hose if you left the hose in the existing position. the Provent has to be oriented exactly like shown so that the inlet/outlet fit through the gap and also that the inlet of the rad bottle (hose barb) passes underneath the outlet hose of the Provent. If the Provent is too low the rad bottle overflow hose will kink.
With hoses attached it'll look like this:
Both of the 25mm ND hoses are 250mm long. One passes b/w the bottle and the Provent, the other under the brake proportioning valve. Use hot water to soften the hoses. (too cold in vic, and hoses are STIFF - and you end up snapping the brake reservoir shoving it around). I used a thermos filled with boiling water. Keep water hotter for longer this way. Make sure hoses are shook dry. I used clear hose as that was all i could get my hands on on Friday. Black hose will look better (but you can't see inside).
Drain hose is 13mm ND, 1m long, terminating at a valve under the car. Longer hose is for extended drain intervals
With rad bottle back in place:
Clearance with cap off:
Fits like a glove, but like I said, you'll need hot water to soften the hoses. (or better still use soft black OE looking rubber/silicone hoses).
The original tube is cut in half at the bend, and two 19mm elbows inserted. CCV puck has a barbed fitting, hard to get off but take your time not to break anything. Turbo side is a very loose slip on fitting.
Both clear hoses are 19mm ND, 300mm long. The hoses have to be this long to 1) keep some pressure onto the turbo side of the original hose (the easy slip on one with the sensor), 2) prevent the other side of the original hose from kinking.
Fitting the last bit goes like this:
You'll have to take off 1" off the bottom of the plastic engine cover for the hoses to clear. Make sure there's no rubbing anywhere.
Cable tie to the strut brace to make double sure that the slip-on fitting on the turbo end doesn't come off.
Parts List:
25mm ND, 2 x 250mm
19mm ND, 2 x 300mm
13mm ND, 1m
25-19mm inline reducer x2
19mm elbows x 2
Hose clamps
It's an easy job and should take 2 hrs? I took an afternoon but that was because i experimented with getting the hose lengths just right to avoid kinks, rubs etc.
The hoses shouldn't touch the brake reservoir and only lightly rests against the rad bottle. The lower hose juuust touches the bottom of the brake proportioner.
Use black hose and you can make this install look really OE - the clear stuff looks bad (but is practical). Much better on this side than waaay over on the other side of the engine bay.
QLD guys will have an easier time. It's too cold down here and the hoses go hard very fast!
Provent in a WH
