2.7 drivers

[5oclock]

No extra filter as such , but there is a strainer in the tank but the tank has to come out to clean it. I have taken tanks out of 3 different 2.7 crds to clean this strainer,2 had a fair bit of crap in the tanks and the other one wasnt too bad. As for the o rings I guess you mean the copper injector seals. I have done these on a couple of 2.7 and 3.0 crds ( both MB engines use the same bolt and copper seal, and are single use only). What has worked well for me is to get the engine to operating temp and with the engine at idle loosen the clamp bolt until compression choofs all the dirt out and also loosens the injector in the head. Tighten and loosen a few times and they mostly come out easy. Be careful not to over tighten the injector lines as the flare can split. Also clean any black death with acetone, not much else will clean it. Replace that seal reinstall injector and line run engine back up to temp and repeat. Not sure what your stalling is, maybe someone else has some ideas for you,,good luck.

[stormsearcher]

Thanks for the information.

[JeanLuke]

I know I have asked this before, but cannot find the answer. After a weekend on a sand island and seeing transmission temps north of 110 deg C it is time to fit an aux cooler. Which was is the flow through the stock cooler? I want to put the aux cooler on the return line to maximise cooling.

EDIT: Never mind. Right side is the return line.

[Adrian D]

Why don't you use a setup like the factory setup on the WK? With thermostat and without any sort of coolant interference and it's the same transmission

[5oclock]

And it seems to work well on the 3.0 WH I have.
Also how were you measuring the autos temp JeanLuke? I spliced into the wires going to Transmission control module and just read the voltage with a small multimeter(off the thermistor),,,I have a little card with the volt readings=temp...Yes I know its a pretty rubbish setup, but it works and I really only use it when towing the caravan with the WG.
As AdrianD pointed out the WH setup is the go, plus it can never stuff up and put coolant it the trans,,,which is always a worry.
I have never seen my temps go that high, but havent done much sand for long periods,,,but I have done a few tracks in hot weather here in Vic high country in high range that are really only low range tracks,,but about 95 was highest I can remember.

[JeanLuke]

I measured via WJ Diag Pro - and yes I was un drive not neutral. I did a bit of searching for the WH temperature control valve and came up empty. Anybody got a part number for it? Is it self contained or TCU controlled?

In any case, it rarely gets below 10 degrees here and never below zero. I figure I can not really overcool the transmission. Maybe the thermostat is just another moving part to go wrong?

As for the sand, it has happened to me before when you find yourself in that awkward situation of driving on semi-soft sand for long distances. Sitting below 40kmh in low range is painful whereas sitting on 60-70kmh in high range works well. However, you find yourself at sustained high throttle settings to maintain speed and doing that sends all the temperatures sky high. The engine was cycling from just under 106 degrees to a little over 95 degrees as the fans ramped up and down (i.e. the engine cooling was coping well with the load). I stopped and checked the tranny and saw it at 111 degrees. Made me pause and think about better cooling.

[5oclock]

The unit is self contained and pure mechanical with a small thermostat,,looks like a squarish block of Aluminium with 4 lines going to it. I havent noticed any part numbers on it, but like you said, you could get away with just running an extra cooler full time. Just put a piece of plastic or what ever in front of it in colder seasons. I think the rule of thumb is the fluids life is halved for every 10deg C above 80C.
Clarky posted a mod for the hydraulic fan for the WH, which puts the fan to full noise when you switch it on. I know you have changed the settings that your fan ramps at, but it may be a simple fix for just when your in the soft sand in High range.
I know it works well because i have done the mod on my WH and the fan sucks like mad even at idle.
So the fan is pretty much the same on theWG, and since the auto cooler line is in the bottom of the radiator it should be in much cooler coolant with the fan on HIGH. Anyhow just a thought. The reason I modified my WH with the fan switch was when I first took it on steep high country tracks I thought it was over heating because the gauge is not as well set up/labled as it is on the WG.
I also wonder on how accurate some of the readings are on the obdjscan app are,,for example the battery voltage is out by about 1volt on the WH. Not saying anything bad about WJdiag, but if you are reading the voltage across the thermistor it takes away any possibility of error.