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  #120  
Old 21-09-2017
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Clutch Stuff!!!

Clutch Plate, Disc and Throwout bearing sets

LUK15572
Ashika 4864835
KF-015

Spigot Bearing 53009181 53009181AB

Flywheel bearing Plate 90512682F
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  #121  
Old 05-11-2017
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Got a PM about injectors, this is the part number info I have.

They are all Bosch. You can use an old #1 injector on other cylinders, just cut the lead off it if the sensor is stuffed.

the no.1 injector. check connector with a multi meter, i think under 80 ohms is good.

Injector #1 0986430248 or 0432217249 maybe 0430211091 or 0432217249
IDZ1023 equivalent to 15 06 2022F, 15 06 2026F There are 2 different blow pressures ~ 150 & 165 bar

KCA30S82 boschowski number is 0432 217 246

0432217303

GERMANY 060 KCA 30 S 82 369 150

28 mm deep reach socket for injector removal.
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  #122  
Old 28-02-2019
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link > how to repair injector #1 needle sensor with pics

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=154680

link > how to test injector #1 needle sensor with an Android phone

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=154725
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Last edited by amlav; 28-02-2019 at 10:23 AM.
  #123  
Old 05-05-2020
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Hi Guys

Went looking for an Air filter and the one listed here doesn’t fit my 2000 diesel

My filter is 235mm x 160mm

Ryco don’t do one but found these.

FRAM CA8858 and WIX WA6165

FYI

Cheers
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  #124  
Old 20-12-2021
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Thermostat gasket:

Dayco DTG94

Bit of a stretch to get it to fit but seals well!
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  #125  
Old 20-01-2022
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Default 2.5TD XJ Clutch Slave Cylinder

2.5TD XJ Cherokee Clutch Slave Cylinder

$96.99 - SuperCheap
Clutchpro Clutch Slave Cylinder - SCJE006
Should fit: NV3550 & AX15 Just check what hose end you have.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...PO4599962.html

I'll update with how I bleed it as it doesn't have a bleed screw. I've dissected my worn one to see if I could rebuild it (maybe) but it seems finding a U cup seal is quite hard. The seal dimensions are:

ID: 12mm
OD: 21.5mm or 22mm to be safe? Mine's slightly worn
5mm thick

Part # DB39AJ007B (couldn't find anything online with that #)
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  #126  
Old 24-01-2022
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Well, changed the clutch slave cylinder today. It went surprisingly well considering the slave doesn't have a bleed screw. Just bench bled the cyl then pushed the line in as my mate was pumping it slowly. Make sure you bleed the slave before fitting the inlet seal. it goes much quicker that way. also a trick I found to get the air out and fluid in quickly was to place the cyl on the bench plunger side down and sorta short stroke the piston about 1cm. its not enough to mess with the nylon retaining straps but it effectively pumps air out and allows the fluid to enter quicker than tapping it with a spanner.

Also at a certain point while bleeding the clutch line it started pissing out and draining the reservoir quick! I think once it let most of the air out of the open end of line it started siphoning all the juice out. was lucky to plug it before it drew air up top.

I reckon you can get away with replacing just the slave cyl a few times before you have to look at a new clutch master. I justified it on the basis that the master wasn't leaking and it's always getting the cleanest fluid fed to it. unlike the slave which is substantially lower (vertically) and at the end of the system. mine was pretty grubby inside and the first bit of fluid that came out was nasty.

TL;DR you don't need to buy a complete clutch setup to fix a leaking slave cylinder. Save yourself about $200.
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