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  #15  
Old 14-11-2018
Barboots  Barboots is offline
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Originally Posted by imaz View Post
Unless you can drill at a point where these two layers are in direct contact, I suspect that you will end up with a flawed fix. Either an air gap or adhesive in between will negatively impact the riveting effect.

You need to plate the underside of the original mounting points as suggested in this thread and previous on the topic. I'm sure that you can do it yourself given you had previously (mostly) removed the headlining.

Cheers, Steve
  #16  
Old 14-11-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
Unless you can drill at a point where these two layers are in direct contact, I suspect that you will end up with a flawed fix. Either an air gap or adhesive in between will negatively impact the riveting effect.

You need to plate the underside of the original mounting points as suggested in this thread and previous on the topic. I'm sure that you can do it yourself given you had previously (mostly) removed the headlining.

Cheers, Steve
Hi,

I understand, and I have thought about it thoroughly. Riveting through those two plates would almost be impossible, unlike the other FB guy who had done it, however he bashed the outer layer compressing those two layers closer together first(which I'm not willing to do).

I'm actually going to drill into the pinchweld(adhesive area), which is NOT those layers you can see from the photos.

I'm like everyone else, I dont want any aesthetic damage or not willing to do something that is not reversible.

Lastly, adding additional inner plate layer is not going to make it structurally stronger as that roof sheet metal has two way movement with load and corrugation. You really need a welded frame to overcome all that. All you would do is widen the tear point, and possible deform the roof shape. Having a plate on the inner + outer side would look ugly, but make better sense.
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  #17  
Old 14-11-2018
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I disagree regarding plating the underside. Maybe if you used short plates you'd have tearing... I still think not given how well it's held up with just the rivnut head for support... but if I was committed to heavy roof loading I'd run two, full length strips. To get them tucked into the gap pictured would be beneficial too.

If you are sure you can pick up the panel junction under the trim, why not price up replacement trims from the US with a view of garaging them for the future? Once you know what they're worth, protect the surrounding paintwork and hack out the trim.

Cheers, Steve
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Old 14-11-2018
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Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
I disagree regarding plating the underside. Maybe if you used short plates you'd have tearing... I still think not given how well it's held up with just the rivnut head for support... but if I was committed to heavy roof loading I'd run two, full length strips. To get them tucked into the gap pictured would be beneficial too.

If you are sure you can pick up the panel junction under the trim, why not price up replacement trims from the US with a view of garaging them for the future? Once you know what they're worth, protect the surrounding paintwork and hack out the trim.

Cheers, Steve
Hmm, seems like another thought. I have already had the panel beaters repair, and "supposedly" reinforce the remaining rivnuts with panel bond from underneath.

To Drill out/hack the rivnuts would be a massive pain, and you would only do more damage to the panel. Their not your typical rivnuts which you can drill out.

A new roof skin in US is around $500, unsure shipment cost.
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  #19  
Old 14-11-2018
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A new roof skin in US is around $500, unsure shipment cost.
Nah that'd be crazy by the time panel work was done.

Maybe you need to go scouting wrecks. Being able to poke around something already muntered would provide a lot of comfort prior to digging in on yours.

What are those infill trims worth?
  #20  
Old 19-11-2018
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This is how they are meant to be from beginning, just like how other manufacturers done it. No bullshit design of the thinsheet roofing, or should I say resting mount.

Check out the thickness of the bored holes, a good 4mm of grip.

Just going to fabricate some shims to raise the channel where the front runner sits, with rubber so it doesnt scratch any paint.

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  #21  
Old 19-11-2018
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Awesome R&D [emoji106]

Maybe plate it as well? There's a bit more height (leverage) on the mounting points now.
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