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Old 14-01-2018
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I couldn't get my battery load tested today, because the one of the auto store closed early and the other didn't have a functioning tester, so I had a play with the multimeter with the assistance of my wife. Here are the results in comparison to my wife's KJ Cherokee CRD with a newish Optima D34:

Commander:
  • Starting Voltage (Ignition off): 12.34V
  • Voltage (Ignition on, not running): 11.4V
  • Voltage Running (At idle): 13.1V
  • Voltage Running (At 2,500 Revs): 14.1V

Cherokee:
  • Starting Voltage (Ignition off): 12.45V
  • Voltage (Ignition on, not running): 11.7V
  • Voltage Running (At idle): 13.9V
  • Voltage Running (At 2,500 Revs): 14.1V

I reckon my battery is probably likely to be stuffed. If the alternator was no good the voltage shouldn't have increased that much whilst the engine was running at speed.

The voltage at idling speed is a bit of a worry. Explains why it died whilst idling for 30min with the lights on though.
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Old 14-01-2018
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That second battery tray would be so handy!
I'm a big fan of the Cat batteries, they are really heavy duty, good cca and best bit is the 5 year plus pro-rata warranty they carry (which I've used in the past). I'm just running a cheap battery that the previous owner put in and have been waiting for it to die.
  #21  
Old 14-01-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanna View Post
Commander:
  • Starting Voltage (Ignition off): 12.34V
  • Voltage (Ignition on, not running): 11.4V
  • Voltage Running (At idle): 13.1V
  • Voltage Running (At 2,500 Revs): 14.1V

14.1 V is plenty
Your alternator is charging
Did you get a volt reading when the starter was cranking?
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Old 14-01-2018
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Yeah, it dropped down to just under 10V when cranking - around 9.7V or 9.8V from memory.

I thought the alternator was supposed to put out around 14.4V, but I agree, it looks like the alternator is at least providing a decent charge.
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9.7V ainít too bad
Not great but doesnít define a faulty battery either

12.34V on standby isnít that bad either
The drop to 11.4V on ignition is a worry

With your recent conundrums,
really sounds like your battery is about to

Hope that helps
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Old 15-01-2018
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Exclamation I sence a problem

My current alternator voltage sits between 13.9 and 14.5 (most common is 14.3, varies .1 of a volt between idle and revved).

i.e if the voltage reads 14.1 when I first start the Jeep it will sit within .1 of that until I shut the engine down. The next time I start it it may be 14.4 and again it will stay there until next restart. Always above 13.9, both alternators I have had behaved this way so I'm not worried about the readings. My voltage readings come directly from the battery positive post (relay fitted in between that switch's off with the ignition).
Just another Jeep thing!

Before mine failed it would not register any charge at all until I gave it a few revs so I would be looking to get a replacement to have on standby if I were you.

P/S
There is a 220anp version out of a sprinter that I'm 99% sure will fit
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Old 15-01-2018
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Default I reckon my battery and alternator could both be stuffed.....

I reckon you're right Clarky. I was a bit worried when I saw the difference in voltage between idling and revving on my Commander and from what I saw on my wife's car, it seems to match what you are saying (very slight voltage change between idling and revving).

I took it in to Battery World this morning for a load test. My battery is rated at 800CCA and the load test showed only 560CCA, which indicates she's stuffed. Plus, the guy pointed out that my battery had been leaking a bit of acid and echoed ren0vator's comments about lead acid batteries not handling the rough roads and high temperatures up here all that well.

I also got the BW guy to check the alternator output whilst he had the load tester connected. This morning it was hovering around the 13.4-13.5V mark at idle and the guy said it jumped up to around 14V when I revved it up. Based on this I reckon that the alternator is on its way out also.

I have found an Optima D27M Blue Top in Perth for a steal that I will grab when down there. I might also have to grab another alternator from a wrecker unless someone knows where I can get a new one from that doesn't cost me another mortgage! Anyone had one of these alternators reconditioned? Surely the costs to recondition one can't be prohibitive?
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If the battery has been leaking I urge you to pull the battery tray out and wash down the PCM (under the tray) with bicarb and fresh water. PCM's don't work to well with holes in them.

They can be repaired but along with the regulator/brush assy the slip ring probably will need replacing as well.

see this video www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVvPzwtxdrM

Search tg17c026 and TG17C030 to find the brush's and slip ring (and complete alternators)

or try these numbers
JEEP/CHRYSLER A04801250AA 04801250AB
MERCEDES-BENZ A6421540402 A6421540202 A6421540502
MERCEDES-BENZ 2542969
MERCEDES-BENZ 2542989
MERCEDES-BENZ 2543289

Second hand one 90,000km http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MERCEDES-...8AAOSwNchaEuCM
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Last edited by Clarky; 15-01-2018 at 04:13 PM.
  #27  
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How to http://www.chirpz.com/jeeps/Alternator.pdf

http://www.baxters.com.au/alternator...cedes-clk.html
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