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  #1632  
Old 12-11-2021
Adrian D's Avatar
Adrian D  Adrian D is offline
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I installed the tuned TCU and took it for a longer drive.
With the ramp up torque increased, the shifts are indeed faster, the hanging between 4 and 5 is also gone.

No bumps or harshness, I'm pretty happy about it. But I now want more ramp up, so I guess that's the next step
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  #1633  
Old 13-11-2021
5oclock  5oclock is offline
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AdrianD this will be very interesting to see the final results when you are happy with the tune !!
Have you had a problem with engine mounts? Mine are stuffed and I dont seem to be able to find any new inserts. Just thought it was worth asking since you definitely think outside the square and you may have a fix?
  #1634  
Old 13-11-2021
freerider170  freerider170 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5oclock View Post
AdrianD this will be very interesting to see the final results when you are happy with the tune !!

Have you had a problem with engine mounts? Mine are stuffed and I dont seem to be able to find any new inserts. Just thought it was worth asking since you definitely think outside the square and you may have a fix?
I bought mine of Amazon
NTY EEP/WJ/091AB
try searching that, they came from UK

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  #1635  
Old 13-11-2021
JeanLuke  JeanLuke is offline
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I bought these ones:



If you look on eBay you can find them. The hint is the compatable engines. Not all listings say they are Eagle BHP 1116R.
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  #1636  
Old 13-11-2021
5oclock  5oclock is offline
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Thanks Freerider170 and JeanLuke .
  #1637  
Old 14-11-2021
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Adrian D  Adrian D is offline
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I'm pretty much happy with the tune as-is. Under heavy acceleration, with shifting at 3000rpm, there's an ever so slight bump when it shifts but the shift is really firm and quick. Tomorrow I will see how it behaves uphill on a long climb.

Eagle 1116R is what I used in my old WG
I'm a f'ing cheapskate, that's why I search high and low for solutions. Currently working on DIY beadlocks for JK steel rims with store bought self centering rock rings

Same stuff as other round bushings in WJ's and KJ's.

Top tip: once you get the bushing out of the aluminum holder, put the holder in the oven until it gets to 150*C. The bushing slides in like a breeze. Otherwise, being a 90mm diameter bushing, it's going to be HARD to press.
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Hey I wonder what happens if I plug this wire in therAAAAAGGGGGGHHHH............
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Last edited by Adrian D; 14-11-2021 at 02:40 AM.
  #1638  
Old 14-11-2021
5oclock  5oclock is offline
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Thanks AdrianD, with your tuning on the TCU , have you done anything with the torque converter clutch lock up points? Have you ever tried switching the solenoid manually ?
I was having some brake drag problems on the rear brakes on the WG , so pulled the calipers all apart and found the pistons were all larger than they should be at the outer end. So this resulted in brake drag when new pads were fitted. Rock auto to the rescue with all new pistons ,seals, dust covers!! So while I was at it I did the same on my WH 3.0 crd as well. So well worth the effort, no drag on either Jeep now!! A little bit of rust between the dust cover and the piston ring on the WH, cleaned up easy with the Dremel and a tiny wire brush. So before I changed out the worn out disc pads there was not much noticeable drag. But with new pads in, the pistons must have been sticking in the caliper badly enough that they would not retract after using the brakes heavily. The theory is ,over time that heat or brake fluid cause the phenolic pistons to swell.
PS the pistons were only about 5thou over, but the are a pretty close fit in the bore. Also I found there was no way I could get the new pistons back in over the new piston ring just using brake fluid as a lube, so I had to use a good rubber grease that was approved for brake use.

Last edited by 5oclock; 14-11-2021 at 08:02 AM.
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