Poll: Lockers

[ausjeeper]

If you had +- $1000 to spend on lockers (excluding installation), what would you get for a JKU CRD auto, 32" tyres and 1" lift. The idea is to have better traction on mountain roads like the ones in the Watagens and blue mountains, as well as for longer touring trips like Cape York. Don't do a lot of ice or rocks. It is my wife's daily driver in the mean time as well.

Please vote for your choice.

Cheers

[Yom]

As a sport you have the D30 in the front.

If i did the JK thing again I'd spend the first lot of money on upgrading the front axle shafts and unis to superior chromo shafts and fitting a locker to the front end (I'd probably go the Eaton rather than the ARB if I did it again).

Let me explain myself. You get more reliable uni bearing cap retainers this way and also upgraded strength shafts. By replacing the standard dana diff center with an aftermarket product like the ARB (unsure about the Eaton but you'd expect it to be better than chrysler-spec'ed Dana gear) you are getting a stronger diff center. People do not really destroy JK Dana 30 crownwheels and pinions when they're using stock ratios like the 3.21, 3.73 and 4.1 and (relevant for here in australia) reasonably legal close to standard sized tyres.

That's my outlook on it.

However...i use my rear locker a heck of alot more than I use the front (when i actually get a chance to go offroad and use them.. ) and as far as lockers for offroad use the rear first is probably the way to go value for money. ARB is the best locker for the rear of the JK D44 if you go by what the diff builders like Dynatrac and Currie reckon - the Eaton is apparently a bit half baked for an offroader.

HOWEVER if i was spending $1000 or so before going on a long tour type drive holiday thingy I'd be putting that cash into the steering if I hadn't done so already (ball joints on axle C's and tie rod). I know there's a few blokes on here who'll agree with me 200% on this lol. You do need good suspension before you even look at the driveline though (for an unlimited and planning to go touring all loaded up I would be going AEV 3.5" with their coils, shocks and retaining factory control arms).

[wrangler2010]

So Yom, what are you going to vote for? Rear Eaton?

[aydanrogers]

Originally Posted by Yom

HOWEVER if i was spending $1000 or so before going on a long tour type drive holiday thingy I'd be putting that cash into the steering if I hadn't done so already (ball joints on axle C's and tie rod). I know there's a few blokes on here who'll agree with me 200% on this lol. You do need good suspension before you even look at the driveline though (for an unlimited and planning to go touring all loaded up I would be going AEV 3.5" with their coils, shocks and retaining factory control arms).

i dont get it why do people always recommend a suspension setup that is illegal to have on an australian car?

[Yom]

Originally Posted by aydanrogers

i dont get it why do people always recommend a suspension setup that is illegal to have on an australian car?

I said it is what I would use - whether someone wants to copy me is up to them.

I am all for legality and it is why i have only a 2" lift on my current vehicle but I use it differently to the described situation. Besides legality goes to hell the moment the vehicle is loaded up with all the gear people usually take as most vehicles end up being packed to be well over GVM and IMHO its extremely important to have a vehicle setup to handle conditions thrown at it.

Originally Posted by wrangler2010

So Yom, what are you going to vote for? Rear Eaton?

If I must...Rear ARB. Even though mine made me rather miserable for many many months.

[Banshee]

Well, only illegal until you get it engineered.

I was at Opposite Lock the other day, (primarily looking for headlight replacements), & asked about lockers. Interestingly, they said that while most people think of rear lockers first, front ones are more useful for pulling you out of trouble, where rears just tend to bog you down more when used alone, (ie. without a front).

Off topic, he also mentioned, when speaking of engine replacements, that there is someone local who has put a Toureg V10 diesel into his JK... Apparently it didn't take much engine mount modification, & he described the power & torque from it as 'scary' to drive. Fun, but scary...

Haven't voted yet, but I already have an ARB onboard compressor, I'd tend to go with one of them, probably. From Just Diffs or similar, where it is cheaper to buy & get it shipped, than to buy locally...

[jbrad]

Originally Posted by ausjeeper

If you had +- $1000 to spend on lockers (excluding installation), what would you get for a JKU CRD auto, 32" tyres and 1" lift. The idea is to have better traction on mountain roads like the ones in the Watagens and blue mountains, as well as for longer touring trips like Cape York. Don't do a lot of ice or rocks. It is my wife's daily driver in the mean time as well.

Please vote for your choice.

Cheers

Hey ausjeeper, My vote is ARB on the rear first.
I am set up with JKU CRD auto with 2 in OME lift and ARB locked rear. Last Jun I did Cape York, without troubles (family of four and no trailer). Locker was not actually necessary although you never know up there besides it is good insurance with pressureised diff. Now I live here and am doing Wattagans, Blue Mtns like you are talking about and find that the rear locked is of huge advantage. I am thinking about getting the front done as well. Agree with the upgrades mentioned on the front axle, for me that will all come in time.