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  #8  
Old 15-07-2022
Zappa916  Zappa916 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Canberra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grippy View Post
I did my WJ front diff bearings by throwing the whole shooting match in the Engel on freeze overnight,.
I need to get me one of them, one day. I have an old garage fridge which I might try setting it to the coldest.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane001 View Post
Heat the bearing up nice and hot with a heat gun then just drop it straight on. Some steel pipe just to tap it home is all it should need.
looks the way to go. Had a look at presses. $340 for a 20ton press, which i'm only going to use once a year.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanLuke View Post
Steel.

To be specific, seamless - either ASTM A53-B, ASTM A106 or API-5L Grade B. Pipe dimensions to ASME B36.10. (Yeah, sorry, I do this stuff for work!)

I got mine from eBay, actually: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181318197313
thanks. I might try my local scrapper first and then steel yard.
  #9  
Old 18-07-2022
MuzzaWA  MuzzaWA is offline
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G'day Zappa,

If you use a pipe slide hammer, just make sure the business end is cut square or the bearing may get askew...

For diff lube, mine is from Supercheap.
Penrite Pro Gear 80W140 full synthetic (full syn lasts longer).
Alternative is Nulon 80W140 Full Synthetic.

You will find that there is no gasket under the diff cover.
You can get aftermarket gaskets:
• Crown: J8120360
• Lube Locker: LLR-R21-D030
• Felpro: RDS 55019

But standard practice is just thoroughly seal it with Blue Maxx or similar.
Keep in mind your housing is aluminium, take care when cleaning the old sealant off.

Bolt torques are 2 stage: 15 then 35 ft-lb
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Last edited by MuzzaWA; 19-07-2022 at 01:36 AM. Reason: Revised gasket part numbers plus torques added
  #10  
Old 19-07-2022
Shane001  Shane001 is offline
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I find a wire brush is the best way to clean off old silicone based sealant
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