Track bar (panhard) movement at chassis end

[st_za]

If you want to keep the control arms but replace the bushings with something high quality, then have a look at the Whiteline and Superpro kits. Both call it "trailing arm" bushing kits in their product names.

It seems like you're clued up so for everyone else who searches for DW and finds this thread: It's critical that the track bar bolts both at the axle and the frame are not just Fkn Tight but torqued to 125ft lb/170Nm. If they aren't, then that can cause the bolt holes to be worn bigger or oval, which can contribute to DW. It can be tricky to torque it up on the axle side because of some steering stabiliser relocation brackets or bolts like the Teraflex kit but I reckon it's pretty important.

[Kiteman]

Replaced all the control arm bushes with Nolathane... ride is sooo much better.
Replaced the panhard bushes with Superpro..
Wobble still there at 100kph... booking into Pedders for a re-alignment check and recheck of wheel balance.
Something to note if replacing the panhard bushes on a '08 JK... Superpro has two sizes, up to 06/2008 build and post 06/2008 build.
Mine is an 02/2008 build but it has the post 06/2008 size of bush installed. So you can imagine the mucking around once I found that out with panhard out and on the bench with no bushes fitted!
Also when replacing the upper control arm bushes on a CRD in particular the exhaust gets in the way of extracting the rear upper bolt.
I had to lever the exhaust (which is at that point attached to the engine so no flex). I did manage to wriggle and bash it out but put it back the other way around with the locking tag nut on the inside.
I'm hoping the wobble may just be a weight has fallen off since the balancing was last done, I can drive through it, once it gets past 110 it eases off..
Here's hoping

[Kiteman]

Originally Posted by st_za

If you want to keep the control arms but replace the bushings with something high quality, then have a look at the Whiteline and Superpro kits. Both call it "trailing arm" bushing kits in their product names.

It seems like you're clued up so for everyone else who searches for DW and finds this thread: It's critical that the track bar bolts both at the axle and the frame are not just Fkn Tight but torqued to 125ft lb/170Nm. If they aren't, then that can cause the bolt holes to be worn bigger or oval, which can contribute to DW. It can be tricky to torque it up on the axle side because of some steering stabiliser relocation brackets or bolts like the Teraflex kit but I reckon it's pretty important.

You're absolutely right on being tricky to get the 125lbsft (169Nm) on the axle end with the Teraflex tie bar and damper fitted... I think you have to remove the drag link to get on the nut/stud shaft properly at ride height (no lift). I did mine as tight as I could manage but I think I will be re-torqueing after a 1000km or so... my deep socket was only a 3/8 drive so was only just deep enough to catch the end of the nut. Need to invest in a deep 1/2 drive.
Thanks for your comments st-za

[humdingerslammer]

[Wobble still there at 100kph... booking into Pedders for a re-alignment check and recheck of wheel balance.]

Now that's another thing... to check whether there is "scalloping" of tyre tread cos of deflated tyres post mud/sand driving. If it is severe enough it will cause wheel balance issues and therefore tremor/DW feeling thru steering wheel. This is an issue I have experienced where the scalloping has been so bad that it is impossible to balance the tyre/wheel so have to replace the tyre.

Anyway, sounds like u r on your way to getting it sorted.

[Kiteman]

Hey yes your right Humdinger..I did have a bit of "scallopping" ..on the fronts before rotating the tyres last.
Just looking at my handiwork today and I think my tie bar length has gone out of whack after the bush change! I swear it looks like I have major toe OUT! Not sure how it's possible that it could change except maybe the new bushes have brought the caster angle down effectively tilting the axle forward. This would affect the length of the tie rod as it will now be offset downward from the centre of the wheel....investigation continues today. I will try and check the toe and maybe get the front end up on ramps and retorque the control arms.

[Kiteman]

Well I think I have found the issue....
Humdinger your on the money with this one.
Today I loosened all the control arm bolts and re torqued them all up (at ride height). Also both panhard bolts to 170Nm. Did a rough check of the toe in and it must have been an optical illusion as it was near perfect.
So decided it was time to look at the tyres...first I took my unused spare and replaced one of the front wheels....... immediate improvement in the wobble, now if only I had another completely new unused tyre! I don't so decided to move the rear on the other side to the front, test drive and wobble is now only very slight.
I noticed the front tyre I took off had a distinct wobble across my flat garage floor:
https://clipchamp.com/watch/oam2gg5GSdV
So I checked the pressures of the tyres... they were all at 32psi which is way lower than I usually run them (38F 40R). When I had them balanced recently I remember the tyre shop mentioned something about the pressures being too high and they had let them down a bit... I didn't think much of it at the time... Luckily I have only done a few hundred k's with them at that pressure.
Now I have to figure out a way of getting all the tyres even running again, perhaps by increased rotation cycle maybe...