Chip Tuning Boxes, Do they work? which is best for our Jeeps?

[MoparFan]

Originally Posted by drover

You never said what the actual fuel burn was ?????

Before you shell out on some trickery, use a fuel/injector cleaner to get the injectors and everything cleaned up, a can of intake cleaner wouldn't hurt either, they will more than likely have years of crud which no amount of ECU magic will fix.... chuck filters at 10K at least but if your looking for single digit fuel economy like the Diesel you will be disappointed.....

i did mention consumption, it was 13.8 to 14.8 per 100km city running.

have done the filter change, injector and intake cleaner bit,
i did mention all this earlier.

after ECU reset its now at 13.4 after 300 km, which will increase as K's rack up.

I know i wont get single digits but it would have been nice to try getting down to around 13.00 per 100km city.

Just been looking at the 2014 KL Cherokee 4X4 limited 2.0 TD.
they do around 7.1 per 100km city.

Thinking of actually down sizing to the KL instead of the caddy
that will almost halve my fuel cost at the least, and i still have my creature comforts.

don't really need a van, just a half decent cargo area,
which i will get with the back seats folded down.

caddy is reported to be a bit rigid in the rear when empty.

[drover]

Originally Posted by MoparFan

i did mention consumption, it was 13.8 to 14.8 per 100km city running.

have done the filter change, injector and intake cleaner bit,
i did mention all this earlier.

after ECU reset its now at 13.4 after 300 km, which will increase as K's rack up.

I know i wont get single digits but it would have been nice to try getting down to around 13.00 per 100km city.

Just been looking at the 2014 KL Cherokee 4X4 limited 2.0 TD.
they do around 7.1 per 100km city.

Thinking of actually down sizing to the KL instead of the caddy
that will almost halve my fuel cost at the least, and i still have my creature comforts.

don't really need a van, just a half decent cargo area,
which i will get with the back seats folded down.

caddy is reported to be a bit rigid in the rear when empty.

Don't know how I missed that post but has happened before with slow page refresh .................. I would be suss of any supposed economy specs... wish you luck in your endeavour.

[Trailfirst]

EDIT - realised the OP is about saving fuel - sorry! Unfortunately tuning these days isn't about fuel saving - it's more about performance - with factory tunes actually being about as economic as you'll ever get. In some situations a good power tune CAN end up enabling better fuel economy (the story of BMW M3 following a Prius at same speeds for 100km using MUCH less fuel than the Prius...) - but that's hard to achieve deliberately. SO - what follows is useful more for people seeking performance. If OP gets a KL - I STRONGLY recommend grabbing a Sprint Booster for it - that will transform it and as long as you don't use the yahoo factor it WILL save fuel - we were able to do that if we didn't drive like maniacs. It WILL make you want to drive like that tho - it will FEEL like a Ferrari...

HAVING done a LOT of work including Engine computer tuning in my old 1993 EF 6 cyl Falcon - starting from unmodified factory standard and going thru to fully worked cylinder head with huge cam and full exhaust and intake mods - I feel I can say with some credential / authority that there CAN be slight but noticeable improvement in performance just thru a good computer tune in a STANDARD UNMODIFIED vehicle - which IMO is worth while as long as the cost isn't stupid. More substantial performance of course comes from doing intake, exhaust, cam and head work.

The improvement you can get just thru a tune without real modification is from more aggressive ignition curves and increased fuelling (generally to mitigate pinging from the ignition changes). Factory tune is all about maximising fuel economy. People will poo poo this as pointless but honestly you CAN feel the difference and it shows clearly in comparison to a similar stock but untuned standard car.

The place I've linked below in the states sound to be the real deal for organising tunes - with off the shelf tunes for standard engines - including "unlocking" the ECU (which makes it "tunable" after that). The easiest / safest path of unlocking ur original ECU and having a tune put into it to improve stock unmodified vehicle involves sending the original ECU to them - which in the States is a 3 or 4 day turnaround process but evidently more complicated and expensive from here. They offer the option of sending them a different ECU but that involves buying the second ECU and then I'm pretty sure the process of changing that over once it comes back isn't as simply plug and play as with the original one. I have an MX+ OBDII module and AphaOBD so theoretically can do Proxi and config changes, but I haven't actually done much of it on our Jeeps (nearly bricked the KL once in fact but managed to set everying right again).

https://www.livernoismotorsports.com...?oid=8&affid=1

Something to watch for is that some of the cheaper / easy fit "Tuners" are just accelerator conditioners - and yeah you wont get much out of those in the Grand Cherokee.

In our previous car - 2014 KL Cherokee Trailhawk, a Sprint Booster accelerator module absolutely transformed the vehicle - my wife considered it undriveable without the Sprint Booster enabled as it largely cancelled the evil and dangerous traits that thing had in standard form - as well as making it feel much more powerful even tho it had no extra power.

Based on that experience - I also did get a Sprint Booster for the 2015 V6 Grand Cherokee which replaced that KL Cherokee - but in the Grand Cherokee it makes very little difference and ISN'T worth the $350. It's ok and makes it a bit more lively and responsive - but NOT the same totally transformative thing we had with the KL Cherokee.

[emac]

i saw this awhile back and didn't respond.

but having a 3.6 i think im qualified to say your stated 13/14 litres per 100 around town does sound high.

me personally in regional QLD typically run around 11 litres per 100 in day to day driving, on the open road if i keep it under 100kmph i typically see mid 8 litres per 100, i have seen it as low as 7.9.

in your case i would firstly get a iDrive throttle controller and run it at U3

pump your tyres up to max recommended , get rid of as much stuff as you can in the car.

and as i read on a drag racing site , and not wanting to sound judgmental lose some weight(hahahah on that)

otherwise i think as suggested get a more economical vehicle, and good luck with that, my previous 2009 mazda 6, didn't do any better in stop start driving than my wk2

i researched tuners and determined that it was a better deal to simply use the money to offset the fuel cost