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  #64  
Old 28-02-2014
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Originally Posted by eksjay View Post
Its gone soft between the pulley and the engine. I bought A new top hose from repco but have not installed. Yes, the existing hose blows up like a balloon when hot, and deflates when cool, but remains soft in that section after deflation, while the rest of the hose is firm. I am guessing the bottom hose might have same issues. Will get a thorough cooling system check done.
Hey eksjay, how did ya go with this mate??
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Old 28-02-2014
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Hey peoples, just thinking out loud so tell me to shut up if this seems silly

I was reading an article in Autospeed recently about under trays and engine bay air pressures etc, and the effects on air flow and temperatures.

I can't remember, and I'll be stuffed if I'm going to re-read this thread, if anyone has mentioned any differences or effects upon removing the front bash plate!!

I'm going to replace mine to see if I get any change in highway temps... I shall report back here...

cheers
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  #66  
Old 28-02-2014
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Default Re: 4.0l xj overheating part 1: Start here - the basics!

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Originally Posted by bruggz351 View Post
Hey peoples, just thinking out loud so tell me to shut up if this seems silly

I was reading an article in Autospeed recently about under trays and engine bay air pressures etc, and the effects on air flow and temperatures.

I can't remember, and I'll be stuffed if I'm going to re-read this thread, if anyone has mentioned any differences or effects upon removing the front bash plate!!

I'm going to replace mine to see if I get any change in highway temps... I shall report back here...

cheers
Bruggz, Very interesting you made this suggestion. That has merit. However there is no need to remove the bash plate as you suggested. These Aussie XJ's are devils for overheating. Mine doesn't since I rebuilt the cooling system, right coolant mix. Go Jeeps hose restrictor and a new a/c condenser and raised bonnet at the rear. I was involved many moons ago in class 7 off road racing and I know a select amount of people that we have all followed from the years and they have all branched out into various forms of motor sport all over the world. Peter, who worked for Richard Petty, Nascar champ who actually now works next to to me as a matter of great karma, builds street rods and drag races himself reckons we have got it all wrong with our raised bonnets and vents. He said that has merit to a degree with what we do but jeep stuffed up with our aussie models. Pete and I had a good talk a few months ago. He said airflow from underneath is the most important towards upward vents such as a bonnet effect. Ramflow effect for a road vehicle. Drilling 1/2 holes in the standard bashplate on the XJ at 3 inch spacing from each hole will give a great upward draught effect. Now I follow this theory as I posted a long time on here ago about a rear mounted tranny cooler that would keep mud and crap out with scoops but allow upward reverse downward flow dropping the crap out on a splashplate but let air in.

Here was his solution and I am seriously considering it due to Pete taking airflow into consideration and the off road environment. Drill the bashplate as described, drop the bonnet back down, install rear bonnet vents on the last 1/3 of the bonnet from the centre fold to the edge fold. These are the Bunnings cheap vents to use. Both vents in both inner guards with vent upwards just behind rear shock tower. 86mm holesaw through inner guard then pop rivet vent to inner guard. This will keep crap and water out of the engine bay and allow hot air up and out from the rear vents and the fan will back blow it out through the inner guard vents. I'm going to give it a go. I have seen the machines Pete has built over the years and I cannot fault them. Might be hard for some, but easy for others.

Bypassing the auto cooler out of the rad to an external cooler creates stable temps too. I run a Derale cooler with a 10 inch fan for my auto totally cutting the rad cooler out and it is great. Sand, mud, low range, idling. 70-80 does not move with a/c on offroad or traffic jams. I have a manual over ride for the a/c thermo if needed. Mine in normal running sits on just on or above 70. And m.temp gauge is not faulty.

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Last edited by rastus2571; 28-02-2014 at 06:16 PM.
  #67  
Old 28-02-2014
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Gday Rastus, originally, I removed my bash plate when the XJ was first purchased, simply because it was in the way.

ATM, I'm not really having overheat problems. Just hot.
I have been running a cooler thermostat, 180*F, which over the past 18 months to 2 years has been quite good but, this summer I've noticed the temp creeping up a little more than normal.
Camp Coffs was a breaze in October. A LOT of high revs in low range hill climbs. No temp probs what so ever.
The 'heat wave' days and hot humid days late December and during January were the testers.
Long hill climbs at 60klm/h would see the temp spike to 115 @ the head and 100 - 105 @ the top hose. Normal running is 85 - 90 and 80 respectively.
I'm only taking notice now because it hasn't been hot for quite some time.

First change, I will re install the front bash plate and take note of the running temps.
Another idea I have for bonnet vents is like the old 68 Plymouth Roadrunner, dual side ways scoops. As close to the sides as possible though. I don't want to upset the pressures at the rear of the engine bay. I still want the air flow down past the trans. Hopefully the side scoops won't effect that.
I think I'm also going back to a 195*F thermostat, to keep temps stable. I don't like keeping temps right on the cusp, but I dislike erratic temps more.

Patients will be a virtue with this considering the way I function, and I shall pray Murphy farks the hell off and leaves me to my devices..

cheers
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Old 28-02-2014
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Default Re: 4.0l xj overheating part 1: Start here - the basics!

I've only done to mine what we have all done to ours on here. I see a lot of merit in what Peter said though. I'm always open to trying new things and he sure as hell makes a lot of sense. He is not a jeep owner though. I may or may not try what he said about the vents. I hardly have time to be able to sleep, eat, etc before I.go count white lines again. Let alone go chopping my guards or bonnet. Lifes great...Living the dream.

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  #69  
Old 22-03-2014
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Last of the XJ's are 14 years old now and one that worked for me was removing the water pump, thermostat housing, and all the steel welsh plugs off the side of the engine block under the exhaust manifold. manifold off to do this job. pressure wash out all the rust, scale and muddy crude from around the lower area of the engine block. Run the genuine thermostat, gen water pump gen 16 psi cap. These are partial pressure caps, you tube will explain it to you.

Chrysler has used this system for 50 years now. CPC and tridon caps are crap the valve at the bottom of the radiator is spring loaded, it's not meant to be on jeep. Replaced all coolant hoses and I haven't looked back. take your time to clean out the block use wire to dig around for any lose material. due to the low flow of coolant around the cylinders this stuff builds up and up taking away the cooling systems coolant capacity. If you boil, this stuff comes lose and turns up in your radiator tanks and jeep being cross flow type radiator this is not good at all as gravity works against you with cross flow radiators.

When engine is off the whole lower tubes get this mud that sits in the tank(hot side) down the bottom. It runs into the tubes but due to the length of the tubes gravity makes it settle and form layers of mud rust ect. Now the lower part of the radiator is now slowly blocking off. Keep the reverse flushing up to date every 12 to 18 months and the radiator should keep going longer. Tip the radiator upside down and make a 90 degree nozzle that can spray high pressure water into the tank (hot side or inlet) through the radiator hose opening and watch the rubbish come out. for the tubes well you cant see them to see if they are blocked. but if you get mud from the bottom of the tank then I bet the tubes next to the mud are blocked. ADRAD radiator with dimple tubes works the best but I hate the material quality as I have had 2 of there radiators and they come apart at the tank header plate. they solder it up and it does the same thing again and again.

Due to the cost of copper they are mixing other crap material in to the copper to make it stretch out and the copper is contaminated and solder wont stick. Don't get me started on copper radiators
  #70  
Old 23-03-2014
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Excellent info mate! it's an extreme measure but this underscores the serious need to flush the system regularly!!! its one of the most neglected maintenance procedures for the XJ but #1 on the list of failures.
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