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  #57  
Old 02-02-2011
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Originally Posted by 116gtv View Post
Great pics mate. How are the rear springs going? Do they stay in place ok on top having the larger coil diameter being front springs? Cheers
Mate I am really happy with the softer spring rate of the stock front springs in the rear. I thought I had posted some photos of the work I had done but I haven't. I'll have to post a decent update this Sunday with pics etc of where things are at. It sounds really dodgy but I cut a circular piece or rubber from a old tyre with plenty of tread on it and inserted it between the top of the rear springs and the top buckets. Given the angle of the top rear buckets on the TJ the springs don't move around as the plastic centre top bump stop prevents them sliding back. I really need to move the top buckets back an inch and a half but haven't got around to it yet. The bottom of the springs don't seem to move around in the bottom spring bucket (springs are in upside down from how they went in the front).

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Originally Posted by bigtj View Post
Looking great Morgs. Glad the arms could go to good use.
Dan - I keep watching the updates on your rig and keep dreaming that one day I might be able to follow suit. Unbelievable flex even without the engine and drive train weight. By the way if you have an adjustable rear panhard sitting around I would love to exchange it for some cash.
  #58  
Old 23-10-2011
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Default Driveline vibes gone... a few other changes to

I think its about time for an update. A few things have changed. Most importantly I swapped out the 3.5" RE front springs with 3.5" OME front springs. The spring rate is alot softer and the front has come down about an inch. Always wanted the lower centre of gravity. I am happy with where the front is now sitting. I also picked up some fibre glass half doors and spent some time fixing them up and repainting them.

This is where it is now at:


These are the stock front springs in the rear. Rubber mallet bump stops still going strong. If you are going to use them just ensure that you use a big enough washer properly counter sunk down the middle and bolt them in really tight.


For more months then I could remember I had vibes that continued to get worse and worse. I pulled the front shaft out and had it lengthened by 35mm at Driveline Services Aust at archerfield. Cost about $230. They also put in a a greaseable slip joint. After putting it in two months ago the vibes were still there until yesterday morning


The vibes ended out being caused solely by the nut that holds the yoke to the output shaft of the transfer case. I noticed that it was loose (finger tight) when I was under there moving things about on Friday night trying to locate the cause. Finally, the heap drives like a smooth ferrari with a tractor engine


I also wanted the spare tyre to sit as close as possible so I cut it and mounted it on an angle only 3mm off the swing out . I had originally made the swing out and rear bar before even picking up the wheels:



I fabbed up some rear mud flaps last weekend to keep the fun police happy. I used the holes pre-drilled in the chassis and just stuck some bolts through to save drilling. They are detachable in the usual way and I just need to trim some rubber off the top:


Today I decided to cut a bigger area in the front fender to allow the front tyres to tuck up an extra half inch into the flares. I didn't end out taking a picture of things complete and painted but thought I would put this picture up to show the piece of rubber tyre I used as a coil spacer to level out the car.


Last night I went for a drive with the Brisbane Jeep club boys and decided to park the heap a little close to a tree to get off the track. When i tried to back it up the tree smashed the left mirror into the bonnet. I think now is the time to think about a re-spray although if I get that done I'm sure I'll just wreck it even worse. Might just get a can of gloss black and see how things go. Got home from the afternoon/night run at 2:00am.


Next mods will probably be putting in the new rear upper spring mounts and doing something with the upper shock mounts front and rear to think about going to an even lower COG. New speakers will also be in when I get a moment. House reno are taking up too much of my time.
  #59  
Old 20-11-2011
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Default Been given the official nod to do the cape next September

After reading so much from all the lucky buggers that did the Cape this year I suggested doing the same trip next year in September 2011 and received a enthusiastic yes from my wife. The dog is also keen as long as it is sleeping off the ground away from any crocs.

To make things a little easier I am thinking of getting/making a camper trailer to keep the weight out of the TJ. We would still go very light. No fridge etc. We really want a light camper trailer to tow behind.

Am thinking of something like this.

This is a photo for when the hyper link expires:

Less than 250 kg. Won't have the cage sides but will throw a lightweigh tent on (not canvas and just two rooms no annex). Will convert the axles to the jeep stud pattern and run 31's so that we will have 3 spare tyres in case we need more than the one spare 33" on the jeep. We will most likely go by ourselves and tackle stupid situations as we both enjoy doing. Without a winch I will probably rig up some sort of bolt on hub so that the spare wheel could replace the jockey wheel in case we need to attempt some deep water crossings on our own. Could always pull the trailer over from the other side with a snatch strap. I will probably take a plasma rope in case I need to use the highlift as a hand jack.

Does any have any thoughts? Will the alloy trailer handle the corrugations?
  #60  
Old 02-01-2012
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After a bit of thought I have decided to build a trailer. I have attached some plans below that I have drawn up. Keeping it simple it wil be a standard 6 x 4 trailer with a Gordigear roof top tent.

The intended specs for the trailer are as follows:

Chassis (outer): 65x35x2.5 rhs
Chassis (inner cross beams and corners) right angled steel 30x30x3
Tyres: 31x8 or maybe 31x10.5
Rims: 15x7
The box: 6mm aluminium checker plate
Suspension: Whichever leaf springs I pick up from the wreckers
Coupling: Poly block (shock absorbing) coupling (ordered)
Tail lights: Led recessed

I need to wait for the coupling to arrive before starting to build the chassis. I'll also need to find some alloy rims and an axle to suit before starting.

As for the Jeep I installed some Kenwood 6.5" speakers in the soundbar and Clarion 4" speakers in the front over the weekend. I also cleaned out all the mud from one of the rims so that it now keeps air in.



  #61  
Old 02-01-2012
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Default problem

i see a problem with this
ur a frame must go under like half of the trailer or it will one day snap or be a week spot and cause flex
  #62  
Old 03-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr6golf30 View Post
i see a problem with this
ur a frame must go under like half of the trailer or it will one day snap or be a week spot and cause flex
VR6Golf30 thanks for your thoughts. I was wondering whether or not I would need to brace the joint. I don't want to do the usual A frame with the front chassis rails welded under the frame of the box.

The trailer will be very light weight despite the looks. With an aluminium box, only a 53kg roof top tent and other things the trailer should be travelling with a GVM less then 500 kg fully loaded.

I had always intended to not fully cut the frame where it bends in front of the box (the outside bend). I had planned to cut a vertical slice top to bottom and then bend to the correct angle and then weld a single solid weld. As to how it is braced I am thinking something like the picture below. So long as the weight on the drawbar is bugger all (less then 20kg) I expect the join will have minimal stess applied to it.

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