New owner of 2006 WH CRD

[Cannabat]

Yeah you'll be able to knock it out no problem if the time comes. It took me 1.5 hours to get it out, and I move pretty slow on this stuff. putting it back in is probably gonna be harder.

Apologies if you or anyone else has girth-y fingers, "mega fat sausage fingers" sounds a bit insensitive now that I think about it. Your boy's hands will def fit

Reckon there is a high chance that if you get an alt from a wrecker, it will have had oil spilled on it at some point in the past, and the process leading to total gum up has started.

So, I think it is best to either buy a rebuilt one, buy a new one, or rebuild it yourself.

Regardless, at $300 shipped from rockauto for good-as-new-rebuilt, plus some time and knuckle-skin, it's a pretty cheap repair any way you look at it.

---

I noticed some oil in the throttle body extension piece, where the sensor lives. It seemed to have seeped into the space between the thick rubber hose and the extension piece. The rest of the throttle body components appeared dry inside.

So, I think the catch can is working - and I'm just finding little areas where it had gotten caught in the past. The catch can filter element is just barely saturated now. Turbo inlet totally dry, used to be a small pool of oil whenever I checked it.

[Brit30-06]

Hi.
That is a nice piece you have written. Thank you.

For anyone not aware, there is a splash guard that you can fit to the alternator to stop any spilled oil getting to it.
Part number 04801798AA

I have sausage fingers. Purely as a result of me being a bit of a Gannet. No offence taken

[Amused2Death]

Quite a ride you've taken us on Cannabat and i wish I had your arms and hands when I had to do the alternator on the 300c with the same motor.. mine are probably better for heavy lifting and they didn't fit into computers easily when i use to build them for a living.

BUT.. i have some questions for you..

1:The nice bright blue silicon fix for the turbo intake, where did you get that from please,
2:Which glow plug is number 5.. when i changed mine out I could not remove the middle one on the drives side, would freely turn like yours but would not come out. I even bought a glow plug removal tool, but it was for broken ones and i wasn't prepared to break it. (I did buy a glow plug removal set ) So now I'm curious for a bit more detail on how you got yours out.

Thanks to your detail I will also chase down any possible faulty earths etc as our Jeep went into limp mode, and while the resistor trick got rid of the EGR light and limp mode, it lost its acceleration.

I also need to contact Clarky as I saw somewhere he had a trick/link/fix for glow plug modules.. I bought a new one awhile back but buggered if I can find it now
Ours is a problem child on cold mornings and as it's the wife's daily drive, I hear about it...

As for towing caravans..... we have a 17' Jayco Destiny offroad that i think comes in around 1.7 ton and the Jeep GC doesn't even know it's on the back with what i consider to be good k's per litre (14's per 100k i think) sitting on the speed limit. Melbourne along the coast up past Newcastle/return in 37c+ and never missed a beat.

[Cannabat]

Alternator rebuild complete. A few notes - which may only apply to the Valeo alternator in my jeep! But I hope this may be of use for somebody who wants to rebuild theirs.

- I bought the smallest bearing puller I could find (3 leg, 75mm, see attached) but it wouldn't fit. The bearing is too close to the rotor body for the feet of the puller to get under the bearing. I ended up popping the bearing apart with pliers (careful not to let the balls fall into the alternator! one of mine did. took a bit of shaking and cursing to get it to fall out).

That left the inner ring of the bearing - still no room for the puller. If you have a Valeo alt, don't bother buying tat type of puller, it's not going to help.

I used a dremel tool with cutoff wheel to cut the inner ring off:

On either side of the slip ring is a plastic leg (See attached image). Use a dremel to cut through the inner bearing along this plastic leg. Once you get thru the bearing ring, you will hit this plastic bit. If you cut anywhere else, you'd risk cutting into the rotor shaft. Probably not a big deal if you ding it though.

- Be very careful chiseling away at the epoxy. I took my time with this and ended up with just barely enough copper wire, some fell off. If ended up with no wire sticking out, I think it would be possible to solder some copper to the nub, bridging the gap to the slip ring contact.

- I then followed the instructions in the videos I posted earlier, cutting laterally along the middle ring of plastic on the slip ring. I didn't have a vice on a table and couldn't get the ring to deform and loosen like in the video. So I carefully dremel'd it until I could use pliers and rip the bits off.

Also, those two plastic legs run in a channel. A small screwdriver fits in here and you can gently chisel the plastic legs out of there.

- Once I had everything removed, I sprayed it down thoroughly with degreaser, making sure not to spray any up into the pulley area, where there is another bearing. That bearing is much more difficult to replace and on my alt it was fine. If you get degreaser up there it could potentially wash out the bearing's grease so be careful.

- After assembling everything, in the video he uses these little brass rings to keep the stator contacts to the rectifier contacts together. I used some copper wire wound around both contacts to keep them together. I also ground away at all of the contacts with the dremel first. If you don't do that, the oxidation on the contacts will def prevent a good solder joint.

- The epoxy is critical. It prevents the slip ring's connection to the rest of the rotor from vibrating, which would destroy the solder joints. Don't skip it

---

Putting the alt back in place had 3 hard bits.

3rd hardest, re-attaching the throttle body extension. You have to press it against the throttle body opening rotated a little bit, side it behind two metal plates on the left side, then rotate it to fit. It was finicky. Use a mobile phone's selfie cam to see what is going on.

2nd hardest, putting the alt mounting bolts back in. Instead of struggling, I asked my partner to get the top two bolts started while I held the alt in position. I coulda gotten it myself but it would have been tricky.

1st hardest, I stained the carpet. Oil + copper dust + graphite dust = a real *$#&^ of a stain.

After re-assembly, carefully re-checking that the serpentine belt was correct, and reconnecting the battery, turned the car on, no battery light, 14.6v straight away, no codes. Happy days. It was late and the mozzies were out so I didn't take it for a spin yet, but I'm pretty confident the job was successful.

Total cost for things that were actually used:
- $35 slip ring
- $25 brushes
- $5 bearing

= $65

Plus like 8 hours of fiddling. lol. Significant majority of that time was problem-solving - if I had to do it again it'd go much much quicker. I'm blissfully unemployed at the moment so I'd rather spend my time than my money.

Originally Posted by Brit30-06

Hi.
That is a nice piece you have written. Thank you.

For anyone not aware, there is a splash guard that you can fit to the alternator to stop any spilled oil getting to it.
Part number 04801798AA

I have sausage fingers. Purely as a result of me being a bit of a Gannet. No offence taken

Haha. Thanks for the part number, I tried searching for it but couldn't find one. Thought I might make one - or just use a long and wide funnel any time fluids go near the engine. Might pick one up to be on the safe side. There is also a rubber guard thign that sits around the oil filler cap, making it into a kind of bowl, that catches any spilt oil.

Originally Posted by Amused2Death

Quite a ride you've taken us on Cannabat and i wish I had your arms and hands when I had to do the alternator on the 300c with the same motor.. mine are probably better for heavy lifting and they didn't fit into computers easily when i use to build them for a living.

BUT.. i have some questions for you..

1:The nice bright blue silicon fix for the turbo intake, where did you get that from please,
2:Which glow plug is number 5.. when i changed mine out I could not remove the middle one on the drives side, would freely turn like yours but would not come out. I even bought a glow plug removal tool, but it was for broken ones and i wasn't prepared to break it. (I did buy a glow plug removal set ) So now I'm curious for a bit more detail on how you got yours out.

Thanks to your detail I will also chase down any possible faulty earths etc as our Jeep went into limp mode, and while the resistor trick got rid of the EGR light and limp mode, it lost its acceleration.

I also need to contact Clarky as I saw somewhere he had a trick/link/fix for glow plug modules.. I bought a new one awhile back but buggered if I can find it now
Ours is a problem child on cold mornings and as it's the wife's daily drive, I hear about it...

As for towing caravans..... we have a 17' Jayco Destiny offroad that i think comes in around 1.7 ton and the Jeep GC doesn't even know it's on the back with what i consider to be good k's per litre (14's per 100k i think) sitting on the speed limit. Melbourne along the coast up past Newcastle/return in 37c+ and never missed a beat.

yeah really stupid place for the alternator on this engine! From my very limited car experience, it's usually right on top. on the non-CRD WH grand cherokees, it is really easy to access. I didn't realize the CRD was different and when I bought the car I knew it would need the alt replaced pretty soon, and thought it'd be a simply job

computer insides are fun also, lots of sharp aluminum corners

so the blue intake tube fix is thanks to Clarky, here's his post about it with a link to the supplier: https://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum...89&postcount=6

Glow plugs are numbered like this,

driver     passenger
   3          6
   2          5
   1          4
front of car

I got it out by just repeatedly and very gently tugging up on it while rotating it. It was stuck at a certain point because there is gunk on both the plug and the shaft right, so I pulled upwards and at the same time rotated it. Slowly this ground away at the buildup. Every time I pulled and twisted it would get a teeny tiny bit further out (but would have been impossible or risky to just yank it straight out).

I also sprayed a lot of wd-40 in there as I went, tho I'm sure there are better penetrating fluids to use, it's just what I had on hand and knew it wouldn't hurt the engine. Maybe a carb cleaner type fluid and let it soak overnight after getting it to the freely-turning phase? if the gunk softens up it should come out easy.

Unfortunately I'm sure the ground up gunk ended up in the engine or wherever the glow plug shaft leads to. But my main concern is why did this glow plug get gunked up in the first place? Is it a symptom of some other issue?

that's great to hear your experiences towing! We're trying to find something that's semi-offroad with an internal shower around $25k. plenty out there but we haven't purchased yet as we didn't have the tow vehicle ready until very recently.

My partner and I will be living in it full time for the next 6 to 12 months, and we have some unique requirements for it, so we are taking our time to find the right one.

[Cannabat]

Anybody know what these two little things are? Look like maybe lights? One under the cabin lights and another at the rear in the boot area. Previous owner had blue tack stuff over them.



Also, I want to get rid of that nav unit mounted on top of the dash. Before I freestyle rip into it, is it easy enough to get out without pulling up the dash trim?

Thanks

[Jonny Jeep]

They are ultra-sonic movement detectors for am alarm system. In other cars my family have had years ago, if vents are open they can sometimes allow enough air movement inside the cab to set the alarm off. The PO may have had similar issues and blutack would have stopped the sensors working.

[Clarky]

1*Alarm sensors
2* Removing the on dash GPS is simple but you will end up with 3 or 4 holes on the dash where it mounted. I just fitted a pair of pod gauges from Super Cheap to cover them but a factory double din facia will cover them as well.

Step one - pull the radio surround/air vent facia off.

Step two- remove the radio, there is a harness that connects the GPS to the radio that you need to remove. When you remove this harness the original loom just plugs back into the radio.

Step three- remove all the screws holding the GPS to the dash (take the cover off the GPS and 3 screws under that from memory). I think I had to pry mine up after screws were removed.

Step four- reinstall the radio and put the facia back on.