New owner of 2006 WH CRD

[Cannabat]

Marco just does one tune, here’s his brief description:

Gas pedal response, all fuel limiter recalibrated for give you 100 mm3 of fuel, torque band changed, and torque limiter adapted for the new torque, closed the geometry vane for give more boost and spool, boost set at 1.65 and can spikes at 1.7 bar, all boost limiter adapted, increased fuel pressure from 1600 bar to 1700 bar and all limiter recalibrated, egr disabled tva opened for best air flow and swirl delete, more Tha 50 parameter involved for give you the best performance

However I know he is willing to customize if you have any specific requests. I’ll follow up with him in a week or so if there is anything I’d like tweaked - but I don’t understand the interplay of things in the engine so could only make vague requests

We’re really looking forward to getting the van. We will be living full time in it for the next several months to a year, or that’s the plan anyways. Jeep both tows the van and gets us to good fossicking spots. The more gold I find the longer we get to stay walkabout

[Cannabat]

Everything going pretty good with the wk, hauled caravan with ease!

A few minor niggles... the wiper sprayer in the front keeps falling out, eventually it fell out and melted due to proximity with the turbo I think. I’ve ordered new nozzles and with re-jigger it with some clear hose.

There is a bit of clunking from the rear when I go over little bumps, not sure if it is the Jack rattling around or a suspension etc thing, I will remove everything from the boot and see if it’s still there.

Ryco catch can is working great, I will post when I empty it w km traveled and oil quantities caught.

I think I have a fuel pressure issue because I need to prime the pump twice or thrice for it to crank quickly after resting for around 12+ hours. I monitored fuel rail pressure while cranking and it was in low 3000s so I think that’s a bit low from what I’ve read. Haven’t looked into this further. After it’s started once it cranks just fine for the next several hours.

Finally the alarm battery isn’t charging (noticed via code and also I set it off one day and I could barely hear the alarm). Is it inside the steering wheel? Maybe it’s a loose wire or dead battery. Appreciate guidance on how to address this.

[Cannabat]

The rattle in the back is still there after taking everything out of the Jeep, so I think a bushing is gone, will have it checked out soon. I think we will go for an OME suspension upgrade with MD rear springs as there is significant sag in the back with our van in tow (2t van).

Reiterating call for assistance with the alarm battery...

Finally... we have a mouse in the Jeep. Interior, not engine bay. Hadn't driven it in a day or so (we are in the van out bush), and see poops and shredded windshield sunvisor thing (silver thing to keep heat out).

I could hear it gnawing at something under the center console. Put some mouse traps in the footwells of the back seats, where the shreds were and near the back underseat air vents (I suspect it is hanging out in there somewhere).

My partner believes the mouse entered from the outside, crawling up a wheel and somehow making its way into the interior. I believe it hitched a ride on something we left outside and then put in the Jeep, and there is no way it could make it into the interior from the outside. The only opening I know of is the cabin filter void, which I filled with a mounting bracket and filter.

So long as the Jeep has no unexpected holes in it, could a mouse get in from the outside?

[Clarky]

Your rear knock is probably the upper control arms.
In the rear wheel arch's you can see the bolt that secures the arm. The bolt is smaller then the hole it goes in and can move around with the suspension.
The idea is the mounting point is pulled in against the metal pin in the arm bush clamping it in place. If not tight enough (really tight) the arm will thump on corrugations and bumps.
Took me 12 months to figure it out because everything was tight but not quite tight enough.