New owner of 2006 WH CRD

[Clarky]

The alternator has a built in regulator so no it is not a smart alternator.

[Fishframe]

Oil on alternator not good, can cause problems.

A smart alternator normally comes with a university degree I’m told.

[Cannabat]

Glad I have a stupid alternator. I’d feel threatened if it had a degree, and would have to find a way to assert my dominance. I don’t think my usual methods of screaming, flailing my arms, or flinging feces at it would work.



Received and installed the silicon t-pipe to fix the orange seal issue today, one off the list.

Though I’ve had the catch can in my possession for a few days, I’ve been reluctant to start the install. My current plan is to cut the little rubber hose that goes into the elephant hose and put the catch can between those. But I don’t know the inner diameter of that rubber hose and reluctant to cut it before I have the hose and fittings I’ll need to connect to the catch can.

Anybody know the ID of that rubber hose?

I’ve also noticed that after the car and transmission fluid warms up, I get rough downshifts at 40kph and 20kph, I guess it’s from 3-2 and 2-1? It does not happen for the first several minutes of driving and slowly gets worse. It’s a minor lurching that occurs, feels like driving over a small pothole. So, my first suspicion is that the transmission is overfilled, everything working smoothly until the fluid warms up and expands. I’ll check the level at different fluid temperature when my dipstick arrives. If it is overfilled, I suppose this could have contributed to the weeping trnansmission fluid as well.

Thanks for all the help everybody!

[Cannabat]

I saw you can “reset learned adaptives” for the TCM in JScan, you have to have the ignition set to ACC for this is seems. Tried that and went for a drive, monitoring the current gear and fluid temp in JScan.

The clunky downshifts are actually from 4-3 and 3-2.

after 15 min of driving getting the fluid temp up to 76 to 78 Celsius, the clunks are noticeably lessened from 4-3 and happened at a higher speed (50ish kph) than before (40kph).

The clunks are lessened but not quite as much on the 3-2 shift, which is still occurring around 20kph but I think at a slightly higher speed than before.

I didn’t monitor rpms, I should try that next. JScan has what looks like should be a live graph of values over time but it doesn’t seem to work for me. That would be super useful data and allow for correlation between gear, rpm and speed.

[alexbrown64]

Gotta be something not quite right there. Do you think its mechanical or software related. Any codes coming up for transmission in Jscan?

Have you used manual mode on the gearshift to drive around? Shift gears with that + - thing in Drive, and therefor you can hold 4th and drop to 3rd when you want and see if it does it at any rpms in that mode. Also try it in 3rd to 2nd and try to emulate what your feeling in when its in full auto mode.

Ours is pretty well silky smooth. We had clunks and bumps before we did the driveshaft and diff bushes.

Was there any software updates for the transmissions?
Have you checked the fluid level yet. Might just need a filter kit and a good flush. Clarky and others recommend a good lubricant for the box. http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=136884

I have bought all 25mm pipe and fittings to do my Provent modification. Pretty sure that hose that goes into the elephant hose is 25mm, but don't quote me. I'm still a few weeks away from that mod, but can go and check over the weekend.

Cheers,

Edit: Upon further research, it looks like you may be on the right track with the adaptive reset. Here is a paste from an article on the correct way to run the vehicle after resetting the transmission.

https://www.lxforums.com/board/trans...sher-info.html

TCM ADAPTATION - NAG1 Only
The adaptation procedure requires the use of the appropriate scan tool. This program allows the electronic transmission system to re-calibrate itself. This will provide the proper baseline transmission operation. The adaptation procedure should be performed if any of the following procedures are performed:

1. Transmission Assembly Replacement
2. Transmission Control Module Replacement
3. Clutch Plate and/or Seal Replacement
4. Electro-hydraulic Unit Replacement or Recondition

1. With the scan tool, reset the Transmission adaptive's. Resetting adaptive's will set the adaptive's to factory settings.

NOTE:
For Upshift adaptation, the Transmission temperature must be greater than 60�C (140�F) and less than 100�C (212�F). Failure to stay within these temperature ranges will void this procedure.

2. Drive the vehicle until the transmission temperature is in the specified range.

3. Perform 4 to 5 coast downs from 5th to 4th gear and then 4th to 3rd gear.

4. From a stop, moderately accelerate the vehicle and obtain all forward gear ranges while keeping the Engine RPM below 1800 RPM. Repeat this procedure 4 to 5 times.

5. Obtaining 5th gear may be difficult at 1800 RPM. Allow transmission to shift into 5th gear at a higher RPM then lower the RPM to 1800 and perform manual shifts between 4th and 5th gears using the shift lever.

6. The TCM will store the adaptive's every 10 minutes. After completion of the adaptation procedure make sure the vehicle stays running for at least 10 minutes.

7. It is possible to manually store the adaptive's under the 10 minute time frame using the scan tool Store Adaptive's procedure.

[Cannabat]

No codes unfortunately, or maybe fortunately.

I'll be checking fluid levels when my dipstick gets here, while trans is cold and hot, according to the proper process. So long as the fluid isn't totally burnt out, I'll probably do a total flush using the car's internal pump. Unfortunately, the driveway is dirt and I'm really uneasy about opening dropping the pan and dirt blowing up into it... maybe laying down a tarp will suffice, or I can use a neighbours garage.

Thanks for posting that learning procedure, I didn't do that last night when I was driving after the reset, I'll do the reset again today and try that procedure. Hopefully that or fluid levels will sort it.

Sharing my research...

I've read dozens of threads about this issue on various jeep/chrysler forums, and forums for other vehicles w/ this transmission. It's not limited to the NAG1 class of transmissions, unsure if the other transmissions involved are MB or not. Though it is a rarer issue, it is not a totally obscure thing where there is a single mention of it. Just search "rough downshifts" and you will find tons of threads.

Characteristics of the problem:

• Often occurs after a transmission fluid flush/change (my Jeep had one in July or maybe it was August, so a while ago now) or any other more in-depth transmission service
• But it can also slowly start to occur randomly without any obvious cause
• The rough downshifts feel like when you do a crappy downshift in a manual, RPMs mismatched. I think this is what is happening. They are rough enough to feel, but not scary. I said small pothole earlier, I should clarify, its more like just a little bump in the road. You'll probably not feel it if you are driving on a road with some lumpiness.
• The first several downshifts after starting the car are fine, then they slowly get harsher until they reach a certain harshness, and don't get worse then that.
• Upshifting is never an issue (with this particular problem)

Analysis (mind you I have no idea what I am talking about):

• Because the issue gradually appears over the short term, I think it must be related to temperature or something computer-y - like an adaptive TCM
• Sometimes the problem goes away on its own after several weeks or months. It may also appear slowly over time on its own.
• Because it can change on its own over the long term, it's probably not from something getting loose or wearing out.
• Fluid levels or hose condition could cause issues with pressure.
• Perhaps if there are two types of fluid in the transmission - like if it was not fully flushed and only changed - there could be issues. This could cause an unusually sharp or soft thermal expansion gradient in the fluid, where each fluid expands at different rates.

Fixes I've read about:

• Doing a "quick learn" or "reset learned adaptives" and then going thru the procedure for it to re-learn might fix it - may take a couple days of driving afterwards to smooth out. Also disconnecting from the battery and shorting the positive and negative connections (NOT the battery posts!), then holding the brakes down, to drain all of the capacitors in the system, might fix it - may take a couple days of driving afterwards to smooth out. link another this works for some cases but the issue returns after a few weeks, indicating the TCM has learned incorrectly somehow
• Incorrect fluid levels may cause the issue, and correcting them might fix it.
• One person fixed it by replacing their battery. I don't understand how a bad battery could cause this, because your alternator is providing voltage and current while the vehicle is running. Maybe low battery voltage when the car is off is causing TCM to forget its learned adaptives and so it is constantly re-learning? No - because the TCM's adaptives are apparently stored in non-volatile memory; they are retained even when there is zero voltage across the whole system. Maybe I am missing something here.
• Dealership re-flashing the TCM might fix it. Or make it worse. another link

So, overall, with my feeble and tenuous grasp of transmissions and cars in general, I think and hope it's just incorrect fluid levels and the TCM being unable to learn to cope. I don't think it is related to the drivetrain or mechanical as in nuts and bolts.

Re: provent - yes I believe you are correct about that rubber hose being 25mm at its ends. It reduces diameter in the middle and I was initially thinking I'd cut the rubber hose and connect my hoses in there. I was going to put my can next to the air filter, no room next to brake fluid, so 25mm seems a bit bulky for that distance.

Are you using actual fuel hose or just that clear reinforced vinyl kind of hose?

[alexbrown64]

For the Provent, i decided to go for this stuff.. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Drum-Pum...72.m2749.l2649

"Fueltex® ZeroTemp drum pump hose is a lightweight, flexible, oil resistant fuel hose designed for low pressure transfer of fuel in farms, construction sites and industrial environments. It is a tough and durable fuel delivery hose suitable for dispensing petroleum products such as petrol, diesel and kerosene from hand pumps, drums and overhead tanks". I got 3m of the 25mm. Reasonably priced, and i think i will need it, as i am probably going to mount the system next to the firewall on the left side. Heaps of room there.

I will take pics of the install.

Cheers,