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  #8  
Old 04-08-2015
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Not much. Couple of grand. Ask on the patrol 4x4 forum.

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Old 04-08-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris0375 View Post
Not much. Couple of grand. Ask on the patrol 4x4 forum.

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I did a bit of searching after I posted.

It's not too hard to get a pair of diffs for 1500

That's actually pretty awesome.

Dunno what to think at the moment.

I got a spare front and rear WJ set of diffs...that I could use as templates...to convert Patrol diffs...while I still use the diffs in the WG...for months on end. Hmmmmm.

Is there a big difference between the GQ and GU diffs? That's what I want to know now.
Gotta quick heads up on that? Please
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Last edited by Hoobz; 04-08-2015 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 04-08-2015
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Gu diffs have much stronger CVs. Go for the gu diffs. If you are going to spent a fair bit of effort best to start with the strongest available.

That's why I suggested the patrol diffs. They are so cheap and strong that a little bit of extra labour is worth it.



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Old 04-08-2015
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Try get the h260 rear from the Ute's as well even stronger

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  #12  
Old 11-08-2015
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Might be just me but there's something wrong with Jao axles in a Jeep
Actually if you hunt about you'll find FSJ axles that won't cost the earth and are a great upgrade.
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  #13  
Old 11-08-2015
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I much appreciate the info in the above posts. Thank you.

I have just pulled the diff centre and pinion shaft out of the rear last night. The pinion had about 0.6mm sideways play and 0.8mm in and out play.

Can't help but think I'm blowing time and effort doing it. It feels like a waste of time fixing up the d30 and d44a.
The front pinion has nearly identical slop in it

I wish I could just click my fingers and the right pair of diffs was sitting on the garage floor, ready to convert to this Grand Cherro.


It's too hard for my brain. Picking the right pair. It's doing my head in, cos' I am a diff compatibillity noob


My list of priorities:
  • Has to still give me good pumkin clearance in ruts with 35's. So so hate getting stuck on the centres.
  • Front passenger side offset.
  • Massive aftermarket support.
  • Price.
  • Front and rear stud patterns matching.


I will keep researching the GU and now FSJ diffs.

Very thankful for those suggestions.

Anymore input appreciated, the good the bad. Just keep rebuilding and working on the d30 and 44a?
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Last edited by Hoobz; 12-08-2015 at 08:06 AM. Reason: Studs matching point insertededed.
  #14  
Old 11-08-2015
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I got a whole GQ rolling chassis with gbox and xfer including diffs for $350. bought for spares for my GQ and to replace my brothers gbox.
I went through the same thoughts for my xj, fsj diffs or make the GQs work. I decided to keep my D30 (it pretty build, ARB locker, sleeved, RCVs, 4.56 ratios) I am going to ass a truss and c gussets to the D30 and it will be as strong as it can be. I plan to run 35s. I also have a ford 8.8 rear with Detroit locker and gears. im going to truss that and look into c clip eliminator.

I think this will be good enough for 35s, I know the Rand P on the D30 is the weak point now, but fabbing the patrol diffs to a comparable strength (shit GQ CVs didn't interest me) and even to build a D44 to that level would be very expensive.
im just gonna wheel what iv got and see how it goes.

do you guys think Cryo treating the d30 is worth it? im not really considering at ATM, but if I have problems down the track.

PS I did run 37s on the above diff for a little while on another xj with no problems, did a few local comps ect.
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