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Old 22-02-2006
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WOW looking good mate your doing a great job
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Old 22-02-2006
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Why don't you just counter bore the bracket like you would for the allen head bolts, but only 2mm to 4mm to suit the standard jeep bolts. This would give you the extra clearence around the uni, and shouldn't weaken the bracket too much. Would also reduce costs.
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Old 23-02-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabio
Why don't you just counter bore the bracket like you would for the allen head bolts, but only 2mm to 4mm to suit the standard jeep bolts. This would give you the extra clearence around the uni, and shouldn't weaken the bracket too much. Would also reduce costs.
I am worried that having only 6 mm under the heads of the bolts would not be enough. They would have to be milled in as well so the extra labour cost of doing that would be the same as the bolt cost.
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Old 23-02-2006
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Well I just got back from the engineer and grabbed some cap screws and talked to him about the options. He actually preferred to counter bore the bracket 4 mm rather than use the low profile cap head bolts as they are too easy to strip the head. I just tried a standard cap bolt in there and at full lock I can just see day light between the head and the uni. Don't forget that this is at full lock only and at straight a head for instance I have 11 mm of clearance. Even if you had a single washer behind the steering stop you would have more clearance already. The only other option is to try a button head but he didn't have any so might still look at that. So at least there seems to be nothing stopping it going ahead and it can now go ahead with getting a quote on the brackets to be laser cut. But normally a minimum run of a 100 so he would have to think he can sell 50 of the kits afterwards? Not sure if there is that much of a market out there? The bolt holes will actually be laser cut at a smaller size and then a drill or reamer run through at the actual bolt size to keep movement away.
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Old 27-02-2006
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears as the bolt in question carries mostly shear load/strength, and because of leverage is carrying only a fraction of the load of the other 2 bolts. It is the other 2 bolts that carry most of the lead. This 3rd keeps bracket from turning and sheering off other 2 when brakes are applied. I don't see a problem with using a shorter bolt with smaller head/bearing area on this mounting point. Also, plastic pattern is 12mm and steel plates will be 10mm. So 2mm more clearance.

Hope that makes sense.
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Old 27-02-2006
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The third bolt is just to give some left to right stability even though the forces are only rotational but the same problem is also with the bolt on the other side as well. The combination of the counter boring and the 10 mm plate will help a lot in the clearance. Only the top 4 mm of the head is that close at full lock on a standard cap screw head. If needed, a bevel can always be cut on the lathe to the top of the head. I have also been checking into using head bolts which are similar in design to the stock bolts but have not got an answer from a manufacturer about the specs of all the different ones they make. Wish I could find a listing some where as need to find some 90 mm long, 12 mm bolts which have the integral washer.
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Old 04-03-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep
Wish I could find a listing some where as need to find some 90 mm long, 12 mm bolts which have the integral washer.
Surely a nut & bolt shop could help you on this one ?, although nut & bolt shops are scarce.......

Shit me, what a hot project!! This should bolt onto the TJ's too right ?
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