What did you do to your XJ today? 1M Views

[XJKEE]

Yep,
All bolts spacers etc etc. The strips are a little bent but way longer than I need, so should be able to shorten and use. Do you know if a generic roof strip is used or do you need vehicle specific ones? Looks like it was riveted on whatever it came off. If it all fits I will be really happy as can then get some bolt on accessories for them, and hopefully will be a little stiffer than the factory R/racks

[darksidecustoms]

Refreshed my fender and door trims like AG did recently with the heat gun. Works like magic!

[junglejuice]

Originally Posted by XJKEE

Yep,
All bolts spacers etc etc. The strips are a little bent but way longer than I need, so should be able to shorten and use. Do you know if a generic roof strip is used or do you need vehicle specific ones? Looks like it was riveted on whatever it came off. If it all fits I will be really happy as can then get some bolt on accessories for them, and hopefully will be a little stiffer than the factory R/racks

Mine was a generic one, I just redrilled it to match the mounting holes in the roof, I also used some clear pvc like what is used on boat canopies etc as a packer under the rails as the nutserts in the roof protrude slightly and I didn't want the weight of the roof racks just sitting on a few small nutsert rims....

[anthonygubbin]

Originally Posted by junglejuice

Ground loops can be caused by different things, you can have a perfectly quiet single amped system and then add a second amp with the supply and grounds coming from the same points and you can get noise, it can be especially noticable with lower grade components.
From here there is no real way I can pin point what the cause is but there are a few things that you can do the first thing that I would do is to make sure that the ground is nice and solid for the head unit, this is very important, then look at the connections for the power, are they the factory wiring? This can be fine if the head unit is not super hungry for power or if you are running the speakers off the amp.
Then I would check the main ground from the battery to the body, remove it, clean it and the body add some vaso or silicon grease and then refit, if you have a lot of accessories fitted then upgrade this ground, it is important.
Then check the ground from the engine to the body, same as above, clean and or upgrade it.
Next thing to look at would be how clean and solid is the ground for the aerial?
Then you can start to work through the system so what you can try is to half unplug the rca leads at the amp so that the sheild is disconnected but the centre pin is still connected, if this eliminates the noise then it is easy, use a ground loop isolator.
I have made rca leads in the past using cat5 network cable, they are what is referred to as UTP which means unshielded twisted pairs, it is ugly but I found that they worked very well for that install that was previously noisy so there is no hard and fast rule, it used to be said that you had to run the signal cables down one side of the car and the power down the other otherwise you will get noise, this is rubbish, I have had the whole lot bundled together for a perfectly quiet system and then in other ones I have had them seperated and was getting noise.
So whatever fixes it is what you will need to run with....

As for the 6mm cable, you may very well have bought real 6mm2 cable which is why I asked if it was automotive 6mm or not....

HTH, JJ

Thanks JJ I will check both grounds this week. Pioneer deck is running straight of the battery so that is all good and switches with the factory ignition aux wire. I am hopefully getting another head unit this week one with x2 RCA's so that I can lose the splitters. My old unit is going in the van to replace the one I blew up because the installer (not me) did not place an inline fuse and I connected up the van battery backwards.
One thing is the arial it is not grounded what so ever it seems. I am thinking this as I tested every other ground on the amp and factory wiring and got a 0.00 reading on the multimeter where as with the outer sheild on the arial nothing no reading other than what the meter starts with before it records resistence.

Regards A

[Cypher]

Originally Posted by darksidecustoms

Refreshed my fender and door trims like AG did recently with the heat gun. Works like magic!

Whats the method for doing this?

[darksidecustoms]

Originally Posted by Cypher

Whats the method for doing this?

Heat gun on high about 1cm above the plastic. Give it a moment and you'll see it change before your eyes.

Something to note, make sure the surface is clean (i have to redo part of mine thanks to some cleaning cloth streaks that stayed there afterwards). Also as Anthony suggested it is melting the plastic so don't touch it until cooled - it will deform/mark. Be aware of the fumes too - don't look down from above LOL.

Seemed to make a noticeable difference on my factory mud flaps and a little on the door handles.

[darksidecustoms]

And it appears the rear license plate fascia (?) is painted fiberglass (update model). Don't go near it with the heat gun, my paint bubbled a little. Mines cracked anyway so it's on the to do list after our wedding in Nov