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  #8  
Old 28-06-2015
tim_pato  tim_pato is offline
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Kj still seems the best compromise for us. Weekdays it's a shopping trolley aka mums taxi. And any long trips it's the car we take. It's compact size and ifs make it perfect for my wife who struggles to park and drive. It's comfortable and handles well including the dirt roads. It's a capable off roader so i can have some fun in it on the weekends and it has a 2.8t towing capacity. We've only had it a few months and on all counts everyone in the family loves it.
My fuel tank has a steel gaurd but it doesn't look very sturdy. Is there another more solid one available?
At the end of the day it's a stock, second hand vehicle. Anything second hand vehicle you start modifying is going to turn into a money pit.
  #9  
Old 28-06-2015
tim_pato  tim_pato is offline
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Measurements as it sits now, from arch to approx centre of hub.
Fr 495mm
FL 490mm
RL 510mm
Rr 500mm
  #10  
Old 29-06-2015
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Spoke to stu at Murchison and have set of his 2.5" springs coming. He said 2.5 is all the kj will handle with out killing the cv's, i thought 3" was achieveable without upsetting the cv's. Is that cv joints or cv shafts or both? What is the actual achieveable measurement from arch to hub centre before damage to the cv's?
  #11  
Old 29-06-2015
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glend  glend is offline
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There are other measurements that some (like me) used back in the day, like the distance from the lower edge of the wheel rim to the bottom of the guard arch through the centre of the wheel. I seem to recall that mine was 690mm in the front and 700mm in the rear. That is accurate for the stock 16" alloy wheel on the 2007, I don't know what it would be on the Limited 17" wheel. I won't argue with what Stu is saying re 2.5", but he supplied my 3" lift back in the day when that was seen as a reasonable limit. The issues that 3" can bring are: the rear upper control arm ball joint runs at a steeper angle and this can tear the boot and the joint can eventually require replacement - I'm on my third ball joint there; you can also run into spring strike problems on front strut extension but many people going to 3" put JBA upper control arms on to eliminate this. As to the CV issue, I still have my original CVs after eight years. The CRD axle on the front passenger side is the one that usually causes a problem, because it is shorter than the right side axle due to the diesel diff offset (the diesel engine was deeper than the petrol engine thus the diff had to be offset to the passenger side to allow the CRD to fit), this means it runs at a steeper angle which can stress the CV especially offroad. There are ways to protect it when driving and you should not put a diff locker on the front diff as a start. Other steps are: avoid extreme tyres and wheels which bring more weight onto those CVs and the front diff (which has been known to crack - it's aluminium).
So 3" lift is very doable and liveable but you need to accept there are some things to watch and maintain.

Last edited by glend; 29-06-2015 at 03:29 PM.
  #12  
Old 29-06-2015
tim_pato  tim_pato is offline
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Thanks glend. That would have to be the single most useful piece of info on lifting the crd i have read yet. And I've read through the entire lift thread here and eleventy seven threads on lost. That should be in the stickys. Thankyou for taking the time to share that with me, much appreciated.
  #13  
Old 03-07-2015
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Damo72  Damo72 is offline
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So glad you under cut me and bought that lift kit, I was so pissed off when you contacted the seller and bought it, but I got a Sky Jacker kit for less and it is working great, dodged a big bullet there, Many Thanks!!
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  #14  
Old 04-07-2015
tim_pato  tim_pato is offline
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If you wanted it then why didn't YOU contact the seller??
How can you be pissed off you didn't get something when you didn't contact or tell the seller you wanted it?
So i guess I'm out of pocket a couple hundred, but I'm really glad i didn't fork out 1200+ for a new kit only to realize 2" isn't high enough.

Last edited by tim_pato; 04-07-2015 at 07:16 AM.
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