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  #92  
Old 05-05-2015
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I've had my 2005 Wrangler since new and haven't yet figured on a replacement rear wiper blade for the hard top, until now.

the Tridon wiper blade catalogue doesn't mention anything for 05 - 06, and what it has listed for 97 - 04 I am pretty sure is incorrect

so finally figured the blade assembly is a "hook" attachment to the arm and the blade is 17" (430mm) long and the wiper blade just slides off the arm by pushing downwards towards the pivot on the glass.

a Tridon TCB17 is a 17" blade assembly with direct fit (hook) just like the OEM, fits perfectly and works well.

not sure if it is the same for earlier models as the Tridon catalogue suggests Wranglers pre '05 have a 12" blade?

hope this helps someone
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  #93  
Old 05-05-2015
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Good detective work

I haven't had the rear wiper connected since about the third day I owned my TJ and took the hard top off for the first time! Mine 2005 rear wiper blade is probably is as new condition!
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  #94  
Old 06-06-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazz tj View Post
hi im looking at buying a tj MY05 renegade auto with 118000 on the clock is there any common problems or things to look out for ? iv never owned a jeep ? im taking it for a test drive this afternoon . and when dose the timing belt need to be replaced in these is it at 100000 ks like most other cars ?

cheers


They don't have a timing belt, they run on either a chain or gears, i cant quiet remember which, but no timing belt on them


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  #95  
Old 24-01-2022
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X-Post from the XJ forum:

2.5TD XJ Cherokee Clutch Slave Cylinder

$96.99 - SuperCheap
Clutchpro Clutch Slave Cylinder - SCJE006
Should fit: NV3550 & AX15 Just check what hose end you have.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...PO4599962.html

If you want to try to dig one up the piston U Cup seal dimensions are:

ID: 12mm
OD: 21.5mm or 22mm to be safe? Mine's slightly worn
5mm thick

Part # DB39AJ007B (couldn't find anything online with that #)

"Well, changed the clutch slave cylinder today. It went surprisingly well considering the slave doesn't have a bleed screw. Just bench bled the cyl then pushed the line in as my mate was pumping it slowly. Make sure you bleed the slave before fitting the inlet seal. it goes much quicker that way. also a trick I found to get the air out and fluid in quickly was to place the cyl on the bench plunger side down and sorta short stroke the piston about 1cm. its not enough to mess with the nylon retaining straps but it effectively pumps air out and allows the fluid to enter quicker than tapping it with a spanner.

Also at a certain point while bleeding the clutch line it started pissing out and draining the reservoir quick! I think once it let most of the air out of the open end of line it started siphoning all the juice out. was lucky to plug it before it drew air up top.

I reckon you can get away with replacing just the slave cyl a few times before you have to look at a new clutch master. I justified it on the basis that the master wasn't leaking and it's always getting the cleanest fluid fed to it. unlike the slave which is substantially lower (vertically) and at the end of the system. My slave was pretty grubby inside and the first bit of fluid that came out was nasty.

TL;DR you don't need to buy a complete clutch setup to fix a leaking slave cylinder. Save yourself about $200."

Last edited by Sdust15; 24-01-2022 at 11:01 PM.
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