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  #15  
Old 22-01-2015
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Ok so my XJ is keeping me on my toes... I'm having the same issue as you Lay. From idle up to 2000 rpm it pulls like a beast. Once I hit that threshold it falls flat on it's face. It will go past 2000, but it doesn't like it. It also is quite noisy. It sounds like the #1 cylinder may not be firing. (No gas?)

I pulled out the multimeter and ohm'd out the #1 injector and it read ~ 77-82 ohms. I thought this was the issue since I had to cut it and solder it back together when I replaced my #3 head. I moved the section that was soldered and it was fine, the multimeter held steady. So I'm thinking I can rule out the #1 injector.

Next I turned the ohm'd out the wire harness on the vehicle side and read ~ 11.5 V and 7 ohms. On a hunch I started to move around the connector and the resistance jumped from 7 to open. So I'm pretty sure this is the issue.

The question is has anyone seen this issue? If so, were you able to fix the connector?

If I can't figure it out, I'm just going to hard wire the #1 injector into the vehicle.

Thoughts? I'd really like to know what MM or Lay have to say.



Sounds like the connecter from what you say.
When I replaced mine, it was necessary to replace the connector on the injector lead as the replacement injector had the wrong one.
77 - 82 is a little low, would have expected around 100 -120 . Doubt it will be an issue though.
You may find that all that is needed is to clean the contacts in the plug & socket.
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  #16  
Old 23-01-2015
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Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Sounds like the connecter from what you say.
When I replaced mine, it was necessary to replace the connector on the injector lead as the replacement injector had the wrong one.
77 - 82 is a little low, would have expected around 100 -120 . Doubt it will be an issue though.
You may find that all that is needed is to clean the contacts in the plug & socket.
Did a little more troubleshooting today. The #1 injector was reading ~120 Ohms and we tapped on it with the end of a screw driver to see if we could get it to jump. It was solid. (I think the reason it was reading so low the other day was my troubleshooting skills. This time my electrician friend did the troubleshooting).

The wiring jack on the vehicle side was originally shooting from 7 - Open. So we pulled the plug apart to see which wire was causing the problem. Once we got it apart neither wire would shoot open. The brown wire shot 7 Ohms and the green wire shot <1 Ohm. We moved it around to see if there was anywhere the wires were rough or broken. We couldn't find anything.

So now I'm a little stumped. I did not have this problem before rebuilding the top side of the motor, and now I do. I'm not sure where to look from here.

Oh ya, and I looked at the contacts on both sides, they are pretty clean.

The wastegate moves freely with minimal pressure.

My EGR system is long gone.

Thoughts?

Vern
  #17  
Old 24-01-2015
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Did a little more troubleshooting today. The #1 injector was reading ~120 Ohms and we tapped on it with the end of a screw driver to see if we could get it to jump. It was solid. (I think the reason it was reading so low the other day was my troubleshooting skills. This time my electrician friend did the troubleshooting).

The wiring jack on the vehicle side was originally shooting from 7 - Open. So we pulled the plug apart to see which wire was causing the problem. Once we got it apart neither wire would shoot open. The brown wire shot 7 Ohms and the green wire shot <1 Ohm. We moved it around to see if there was anywhere the wires were rough or broken. We couldn't find anything.

So now I'm a little stumped. I did not have this problem before rebuilding the top side of the motor, and now I do. I'm not sure where to look from here.

Oh ya, and I looked at the contacts on both sides, they are pretty clean.

The wastegate moves freely with minimal pressure.

My EGR system is long gone.

Thoughts?

Vern
MAF/MAP not right
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  #18  
Old 24-01-2015
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MAF/MAP not right
Is there a good way to test it? Know of anywhere to find one?
  #19  
Old 24-01-2015
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Is there a good way to test it? Know of anywhere to find one?
The newer jeep of mine has a MAP, its on the top of the inlet manifold. I found the spec sheet for it on the Bosch motor sport site. You should be able to find a spec sheet for the MAF if thats what you have. My 98 jeep has a MAF, its mounted in the air pipe between the air cleaner & the turbo.
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  #20  
Old 24-01-2015
vernicious  vernicious is offline
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Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
The newer jeep of mine has a MAP, its on the top of the inlet manifold. I found the spec sheet for it on the Bosch motor sport site. You should be able to find a spec sheet for the MAF if thats what you have. My 98 jeep has a MAF, its mounted in the air pipe between the air cleaner & the turbo.
Mine has the MAF. I should have asked the question better... Do you know where I can purchase a new/used one if mine is bad?

Do you know how to troubleshoot it?
  #21  
Old 25-01-2015
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Mine has the MAF. I should have asked the question better... Do you know where I can purchase a new/used one if mine is bad?

Do you know how to troubleshoot it?
You are asking a person in Australia where to purchase VM/Bosch parts from?
I get most bits out of the EU. Autospark in Greece have been useful, also Edd at Arcopiston is good. Spend some time in the diesel parts sticky in the XJ part of the forum. If you get a serial number off the part, google it, normally by the 15 page of results you will find what you are after.
If you track down the spec sheet on it you will have the output curves, just check with a multi meter.
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