Servicing the 3.7

[goldy9091]

Originally Posted by Jeep'ers

My total cost was around 550 total, and a days work! I'll lend a hand or a tool or two if you are around Sydney...

So when can i drop mine off !! LOL

Sounds like you did a great job.

[Jeep'ers]

Originally Posted by glend

Re the transmission filters (at least if you have the 545RFE tranny): one big flat one in the pan, and the small spin on one gets the fluid from the cooler line. Don't forget to change the Anit-drainback valve as well, this stops fluid from draining back into the pan when the KJ is sitting for a while (the most common cause of slow transmission engagement after a startup following a prolonged spell of sitting).

I don't have that transmission: I have this one (42RLE)which was placed on the 05 sports and limited's briefly, lucky or unluckily as I only have one filter... Unless I'm wrong in which case don't tell my missus


The 42RLE is a 4-speed overdrive automatic transmission. The 42RLE comes in 2003.5+ Jeep Libertys. The 45RFE is a 4-speed overdrive automatic transmission, with an alternative 2nd gear ratio for downshifting. The 45RFE was replaced by the 42RLE in 2003.5+ Libertys. The 545RFE is a 5-speed overdrive automatic transmission. The 545RFE was the only transmission available in Liberty CRD models. The Liberty's maximum tow rating with an automatic transmission is Class III 5,000#. Mechanically, the 42RLE has 13 bolts and a straight crossmember, while the 45RFE and 545RFE have 15 bolts and a backwards angled crossmember. Electronically, vehicles equipped with the 42RLE have a 4 connector NGC PCM (Powertrain Control Module) with an integrated TCM (Transmission Control Module), while those equipped with the 45RFE have a 3 connector JTEC PCM and a separate TCM.

[JEEPaul]

Tranny filters - the early 3.7's with the 45RFE have 2 filters, later 42RLE models just the one.

[Jeep'ers]

I changed my rear brake pads today,took near 20 minutes and not a difficult job by a long shot!!! I bought EBc green stuff rear pads. The older kj's i think have drums.... I have discs all round. The rotors were really good actually and this is the first time since I bought it that I'm changing the rear pads.

1st jack up the rear by the diff and put jack stands on both sides of the diff. Remove the wheel and look at the rotors. There s a clip that goes horizontally across the callipers. remove it and keep it safe.

On the other side of the rotor opposite you close to the brake line there are two bolts ( size 13) that must be taken out in order to get the calliper off to get the pads off. The first pad has a metal bracket that folds it to the caliper (Bend them with a flat screw driver), the second has a push on type bracket with three metal prongs that pushes onto the brake piston. A little tlc with a hammer gets them off pretty easy.

3 before putting the new ones on, use a g clamp to push the brake piston back in, as it comes out when removing the old pad and you wont be able to put the calliper on easily when the new pads are in. Once the piston is depressed, quickly put both pads in, the push in rear one first then front clip on one. Slide the calliper onto the rotor, screw both bolts back in and put the metal retaining clip back on and you are done.

Pics to come when I load them up.

[driller]

I'm getting my KJ serviced by a shop and I am particularly worried about my trans. It overheated twice while 4wding and have since successfully installed a B&M cooler. I have told them about this and will do a trans flush, filters and all (quoted at $280).

Have read several ways, good and bad, about how to flush the trans. Whats the best way to flush it?

[axiom]

Some shops will have dedicated auto trans flushing machines, that force out old fluid under pressure then, re fill with fresh fluid however, just make sure that you actually use the ATF-4 Fluid. All else hasnt been tested with the system, and some have even reported issues.

[Jeep'ers]

Originally Posted by axiom

Some shops will have dedicated auto trans flushing machines, that force out old fluid under pressure then, re fill with fresh fluid however, just make sure that you actually use the ATF-4 Fluid. All else hasnt been tested with the system, and some have even reported issues.

ATF + 4 is what you meant there, and there are a few ways as a tight arse DIY solution to avoid costs. You can get a cheap pump from super cheap and suck out as much fluid through the dipstick in the engine bay as you can. Then get out your scanners and drop the pan under the car to remove the sump and to clean the sump pan and magnet. You'll need torx bits and Allan keys to remover the filter and velve body. When you remove the velve body it will drop a fair amount of ATF... Give it a good clean and have a look at purchasing a transgo kit to stiffen up the gears and replace the springs and rings.. Easy job to do..

Make sure you don't get any gasket stuff in the ATF so let it dry slightly before, and wash ATF off paint panels as it is corrosive and will eat all your paint off...