belt tensioner bolt size.

[genpk]

Originally Posted by bjm

Had two plastic name brand plastic idler pulleys fail in a year on my 2012GC diesel .The bearings were cheap rubbish with little grease.Switched to metal
pulleys running quality Jap bearings that can be replaced,no more failures.!

The factory idler pulley are nylon ribbed ones in my 14 and 15 gc’’s appear to be decent quality, Canadian and the bearing themselves seemed pretty good just very little grease.
The tensioner is a Gates one, model 39343 from factory which has a flat metal
pulley which Gates do not sell as a seperate item. Been through all there catalogues and no pulley with the same dimensions,as said, they want you to go out and buy a new $400 tensioner not just the pulley. Im sure its a standard bearing so if you took it to a bearing place you could press it out and replace it for about $20
As said, im surprised how dry these pulleys were at 60k and reckon if i had left them
they may have got to 100k maybe.

[drover]

My list shows a Gates 39343 as a 6814836AA, or a Dayco 132056, bearing NSK 6203DUM ............. just from cats not first hand ...

My Spanner Guru always said when one idler needs replacing, do the whole lot along with belt, once visited no need to revisit......

I have found most greased parts especially wheel bearings always seem to be alight smear of grease, of course too much is just as bad

Certainly an adventure, I have found once an alloy cast heads get chewed thats it, stuffed forever and end up with similar solution, my tools for such an operation on bastard bits like that.

[genpk]

Originally Posted by drover

My list shows a Gates 39343 as a 6814836AA, or a Dayco 132056, bearing NSK 6203DUM ............. just from cats not first hand ...

My Spanner Guru always said when one idler needs replacing, do the whole lot along with belt, once visited no need to revisit......

I have found most greased parts especially wheel bearings always seem to be alight smear of grease, of course too much is just as bad

Certainly an adventure, I have found once an alloy cast heads get chewed thats it, stuffed forever and end up with similar solution, my tools for such an operation on bastard bits like that.

Yeah, tried stilsons but couldnt get close to it due to angles etc.
The alloy is just crap.
Re grease, did put a bit in there but if there is to much it usually finds it own way out past the dust seals when it heats up and bleeds out a little.

[drover]

Have had a another look at mine and decided when I get motivated I will make up a special tool, long flat bar , near the end I will have a stud which will slot into the torx hole in the centre or 2 tabs to grasp the sides of the housing depends on how things fit, weld an old socket to the bar to cover the dicky bolt head further down, this set up will lever the tension of the spring so belt can be removed with the load bearing spread and not all on the bolt head.......... well thats the theory.

[genpk]

Originally Posted by drover

Have had a another look at mine and decided when I get motivated I will make up a special tool, long flat bar , near the end I will have a stud which will slot into the torx hole in the centre or 2 tabs to grasp the sides of the housing depend son how things fit, down a old socket to cover the dicky bolt further down, this set up will lever the tension up the spring so belt can be removed with the load bearing spread and not all on the bolt head.......... well thats the theory.

Ive kept the old tensioner as a spare, finally managed to hammer on a 12mm socket onto the dodgy bolt head, finally able to put pressure enough to move the spring tension so the 12mm socket has now found a new home on the tensioner!