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  #29  
Old 18-01-2013
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Originally Posted by darksidecustoms View Post
Check if the air is blowing out of the demister - if it's vac operated, there may be an issue there
Thanks, yeah I think my demister is vacuum operated (along with the cruise control), but I don't think thats it. Cos when I adjust the 'mode' dial from face, to feet, to demist etc the little tiny tiny bit of air that I do get does change accordingly.

So far the mode dial is the only thing actually working properly (I at least hope so)...
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  #30  
Old 24-01-2013
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Fixing this has shown up another issue… Although I can turn my blower/fan on max and hear it roar like a 747 is about to take off under my dash, I actually have nearly no air coming from the vents..

So this has got me stumped a little at the moment after checking everything out I can’t see any obvious blockages or leaks in the system…
You need to open the box with two wires, and flip them. It's a common fault, I installed the same kit and going by the USA forum, you gotta flip the two wires.
  #31  
Old 24-01-2013
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You need to open the box with two wires, and flip them. It's a common fault, I installed the same kit and going by the USA forum, you gotta flip the two wires.
haha thanks HighOutput!

I literally just came inside after doing exactly what you said only to see your post!! A few hours earlier and you could have saved me a whole lot of heart ache.. Na all good! I ended up learning the hard way...

Will post pics etc later..
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  #32  
Old 24-01-2013
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haha thanks HighOutput!

I literally just came inside after doing exactly what you said only to see your post!! A few hours earlier and you could have saved me a whole lot of heart ache.. Na all good! I ended up learning the hard way...

Will post pics etc later..


Yeah it'll be good for you to put that info in here, gets everyone who hasn't heard from someone else that, you need to flip the wires.

P.S I see you're in Perth. I'm currently in Esperance and later on landing in Perth.
  #33  
Old 25-01-2013
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Default HVAC System Has Air Again!

Well after fitting the HVAC’s new blower motor resistor, I found that yes the blower would turn on and change speeds as per the knob on dash, but I couldn't really feel any air from the vents.

After a lot of head scratching and looking all over the place for what the prob was, it turned out that the fan was spinning backwards…!

I had fitted the new module/resistor correctly and wired in the new MOPAR harness as per the instructions (pretty obvious, same colour wires spliced to the same colour wires), but Jeep decided to play a prank on everyone and switch the pins around on the new resistor output to the blower itself!!

So what you need to do is pull the cable that connects the blower motor to the resistor and swap the wires around in the connector/plug at one end. This will get the fan spinning in the right direction.

BTW the blower/fan actually has an arrow on it that indicates the direction its meant to spin, which is clockwise.

Do not do this:
I learned this all the hard way as, initially before I came to the above conclusion, I had cut the red and black wires on the new harness going to the resistor from the dash harness (basically reversing what I had done in the first installation) and swapped the red and black over (so it was red to black, and black to red) thinking this should do it.

I then connected the batt back up and to my surprise the blower came on at full speed despite the ignition not being on… It was on full blast and I had no control over it, but going in the right direction mind you! So this was not good…

So I wasn’t very happy at this point and had to revert the wires back to ‘normal’ again (red to red, and black to black) . This would give me normal ignition control and on/off and fan speed control, but would put the blower in reverse again.

So decided to jump on Google and discovered that the smaller cable that runs between the resistor and the blower were the ones that needed to be swapped (may seem logical to others..)… Luckily there were some very good instructions on another forum about how to pull the wires from the connector and put them back in (cos I’ve got no idea).

I am absolutely useless when it comes to auto electrics and I hate anything to do with it. I even don’t like splicing wires together as easy as its meant to be. And this whole job my soldering iron decided to give up the ghost so the only way I could solder anything was to steal my wife’s little chef’s blow torch and melt the solder on that way lol!

Some tips if doing this job on a WJ (not sure about other Jeeps):
  • Install everything as per the instructions and check for the blower/fan spin direction, if reversed (which apparently happens to everyone, but nobody mentions it you), then;
  • SWAP the wires over in the ‘blower motor – resistor’ cable at one end!!!


How to swap the wires in the connector/plug:

This is the 2-wire connector I’m talking about (yes its the new Mopar cable supplied in the new 'upgraded' harness kit...):


Then you get a small flathead screwdriver and pry the blue bit from the side to get it up and out:


You then get a small screwdriver or something (I used the same screwdriver from the above step) to pry the little locking tabs (little square bits in middle of connector) towards the middle of the connector , and pull the wire out backwards (NOTE: you can only do one wire at a time):


Then you should have the wires removed from the plastic connector:


Flip the connector around and plug the wires back in (again, only one at a time), and you should end up with this (wires flipped):


And voila, now have a blower that works, and as an added bonus also spins in the right direction!

Still don't have heat, so that's a blend door issue despite the fact that it has already had the fix done. Ah that is for another day (maybe winter lol)... So over HVAC issues...
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Last edited by Turismo07; 25-01-2013 at 04:05 PM.
  #34  
Old 25-01-2013
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Originally Posted by HighOutput View Post


Yeah it'll be good for you to put that info in here, gets everyone who hasn't heard from someone else that, you need to flip the wires.

P.S I see you're in Perth. I'm currently in Esperance and later on landing in Perth.
You in Esperance on holiday, driving through, or you live there and moving to Perth?

Esperance is a really really nice place. Been there twice and hoping to get back there again sometime soon. I esp love Cape Le Grande NP. The pic in my first post with my mates TJ in it was taken on Cape Le Grande Beach at about 8:30pm and still 37 degrees with a storm brewing and lightning on the horizon!
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  #35  
Old 05-03-2013
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Default Complete Axle Shaft Assembly

A few more updates.

I fitted my new front driver's side (long side) complete axle assembly with one I purchased from the US via Kolak.

The driver's side CV boot was torn in a bad way, so was planning to change th whole joint cos chances are that some dirt has got in and taken some life out of the joint. But cos I was ordering some other big items at the same time (i.e. the rear Addco sway bar) and the cost of just a CV joint vs a complete axle shaft assembly, it became a no brainer to just get the complete shaft. The CV joint itself in the US was approx $50, and a complete axle shaft assembly was $80.

Installation is pretty straight forward.
  • Remove wheel
  • Loosen 36mm axle nut by removing the split pin etc and using a 36mm socket. Can be extremely tight! On this WJ the nut came loose quite easily with my 3ft breaker bar (had been spraying WD40 on it every now and then since I bought the Jeep ), but on my first WJ, I actually destroyed my sidchrome ratchet trying to undo the same nut...
  • Remove brake hardware (caliper, roter). Can cable tie the caliper to the spring to keep out of the way and not hanging by its brake line.
  • Undo the ABS sensor (x1 8mm bolt)
  • Remove the hub/unit bearing (x3 12pt 13mm bolts from behind)
  • Slide the complete axle shaft out from the axle/diff housing. When putting the new axle assembly back in, try not to let the axle touch the bottom of the axle tube as you'll get the shaft dirty and this dirt will then end up inside your diff (=not good).
  • Resemble in the reverse of above.


Pics:

Old setup, plastic bag cable tied around the CV boot to stop dirt getting in to buy me time until I could replace it... It did the trick


Shaft removed and the torn CV boot:


Old shaft vs new shaft:


Plus I was pleasantly surprised when I had the caliper off to find that my 2000/2001 WJ has the Akebono front calipers fitted (upgrade over the Teves calipers, and standard on MY2002 and up WJ/WG's) :
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Last edited by Turismo07; 19-03-2013 at 11:45 AM.
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