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  #8  
Old 15-11-2017
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Originally Posted by acs85 View Post
I actually hadn't thought to check if Wranglers are manual or autolocking hubs, but I removed the autolocking hubs on my Patrol because they were unreliable. Not really any issue with the manual locking hubs, except if it's pissing down rain and I don't want to get out to lock them
Its actually simpler than that........ thy have fixed hubs.
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  #9  
Old 15-11-2017
OzRick25  OzRick25 is offline
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The JKU storage is about 100mm in length and width shy of being convenient for storage. You can make the most of what you get to make it work but it's certainly not as easy as the options available for larger wagons.

If your coming from a diesel Patrol to a petrol Jeep and even the torqy little pentastar you are going to have to change the way you drive. IMO these petrols need to be run between 2400 and 4200 RPM and to be geared low to accomidate the higher rpm and then they plenty capable. So many of my mates can't and don't like to drive my Wrangler because they are just diesel lazy, and can't change their style.

Not all Wranglers are created equal, if you can I'd get a rubicon, if not I think you will want to re gear to at least 4.1 but might as well go to 4.56 if your doing it for off road use

Stock axles are good for about a 33" tyre and will need replacing if you want to go bigger offroad imo. The rubis maybe good for 34 or even 35.

Balls, unis and bearings are fairly frequent maintenance item I don't know how much this varies from the patrol I would think slightly more frequently due to the heavy duty build of the patrol but not too sure. I'd say their an 80 to 100,000km schedule item.

The unsealed electric thermofan in the 3.8 can be a cause of distress for water crossings and deep mud. But can be replaced with a sealed unit or you can let your car cool fully before crossing and drain/clean the mud after crossing. Not sure if they fixed this on the 3.6.

The Engine Coolant Temp sensor in the 3.8 is a cheap item that can cause headaches as well, pretty sure they can be bypassed with a switch to manually control the fan not sure on the he 3.6. Replace them every 2 to 3 years and you shouldnt have a drama. Carry a spare if you see the needle get to half way and the fan isn't cycling odds on you need to replace the ECT sensor.

The catalytic converters in older vehicles can start to cause people grief particularly the oil eating 3.8 for short transit drivers. These and DPF's are going to be the bain of all modern engine owners existence. Look for a car that gets driven moderate to long distances regularly, the cats will likely be in a lot better condition than an around towner.

The 3.6 is definitely a bit of a different engine. The 2016 and later versions had a host of upgrades including liquid cooled Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Not that i've heard of many issues with them but for me it's too early to be reliable so I'dd be looking for a 2013 to 2015 model. Probably not too many hassles servicing them but I wouldn't think it's going to be an easy engine to backyard rebuild. Not many of the modern engines will.
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Last edited by OzRick25; 15-11-2017 at 04:49 PM. Reason: Cats
  #10  
Old 15-11-2017
acs85  acs85 is offline
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@OzRick25, great info, thanks. More things to keep in mind.

Yes diesel can make you lazy, you get to enjoy that low-RPM torque, can make life a bit easier. I drove a JKU and it took a bit to adjust to the petrol engine and its characteristics. Wasn't a bad experience at all, was a fun drive.

I'd like a Rubicon but there's no 4 doors for sale at the moment. I suspect they'd be more $$ than I'm willing to pay, too. Do you rate the regearing in the top five mods to do? Usually I'd attend to bar work, lift, tyres, storage, and then lighting.
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Old 15-11-2017
OzRick25  OzRick25 is offline
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That all depends on how often and how seriously offroad you get. Most offroad I do is Vic high country. My priority would be the tyre I need to get me where I need for me that's only a 33, then the gears that will run that tyre comfortably, and the minimum lift to clear them. Depending on what diff ratios you end up with and tyre size you feel you need you may find your ok without a regear. If you end up with with 3.73 in an auto you may find your happy enough turning a 32 or 33. Obviously if you need 35 or bigger a lot of that stuff is going to have to need to happen pretty close together. And before you go messing with lifts it's best to know how much weight you'll be carrying and where that will be to match your shocks and springs correctly so bar would be ahead of at the same time as a lift. gets expensive quickly sometimes...

I wouldn't do much permanent stuff in the storage department until you have lived with the vehicle a while as you are going to want to work out how to maximise every available space, there are a lot of different things people have done on here and in the US so you should be able to get a few ideas. I'm not sure how long the waco 40 is but the rear storage area only gives you about 750mm length between uprights (my 38l Engel eclipse just fits with one handle removed). Saw wise I have been chucking the 038 in the rear passenger footwell but have just got a smaller ms250 I'm hoping will fit in the rear. I have a king swag that goes on the rear seat or up on the roof rack if I get desperate.
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Last edited by OzRick25; 15-11-2017 at 07:09 PM.
  #12  
Old 16-11-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acs85 View Post
Thanks for the input. Sounds like you really like your Jeep, gives me some encouragement that it could be a good choice.

Which Wrangler do you have, and which engine?
I've always liked the look of the Jeep going right back to the CJ but never considered buying one.

One day I decided to buy a cheap small 4wd as a second car, something to bash around and not care about. I bought a TJ Wrangler and fell in love with it immediately, as soon as you drive one with the top down on the beach, they are completely different to anything else out there.

I bought the JK (2011, 3.8L) and have spent a lot of money getting it to how I wanted it to look and don't think I'd ever go back to any other 4wd brand.
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  #13  
Old 16-11-2017
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I wasn't sure at first but I was sold after driving a JK and having the opportunity to take it offroad. It's not for everyone, which is why I suggest test driving a few, but it has a unique character and feel. The solid axle on-road handling (or lack thereof) probably won't come as much of a surprise to you but it definitely feels different to the Patrol.

While the smaller interior is something to consider, it's more modern than a Patrol and just as comfortable in my opinion. I have packed two double swags, a 50L Waeco CFX, a 60L plastic eski, two bags of wood, gazebo, folding table, gas stove, a container with misc goods, chairs, bags, sleeping bags and pillows and managed to fit it all inside with my amazing Tetris skills but that was with both sections of the rear seats folded flat.

I have gotten smarter since then, with a DIY roof platform for bulky things like swags and camping gear that packs up small enough to fit inside, like the gazebo that I can fit in width-ways to sit on top of the fridge behind the rear seats.

The two best things about my Jeep is that it has allowed me to DIY just about every mod you can think of and also the Jeep community - there are heaps of clubs with organised activities and heaps of camping opportunities.

Well, actually there are 3 things if you count my current JKU's 3.6 compared to the JK's 3.8, which sounded nice but was very thirsty and lazy as all hell to boot.
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  #14  
Old 16-11-2017
jkason  jkason is offline
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"13 model, but I'm really looking at any manual 3.6L, 100,000km or so, and less than $30,000."

Mate, I just got a JKU 2013, Manual, 35,000kms for $26,000. You'll have no trouble finding one for under $30,000 if you're happy with 100,000kms
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