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  #17  
Old 24-11-2017
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Take it to a radiator shop and ask their opinion
  #18  
Old 24-11-2017
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Get an independent leak down and a monoxide test done. And assuming this started and you took it in before your waranty expired if you haven't documented the timeline of going to dealers and the issues start doing so.
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  #19  
Old 04-04-2018
Wombat6  Wombat6 is offline
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Well finally a month ago we took the van out for its first trip since the overflow bottle was replaced. Got onto the Western Hwy, ... and then it over heated on the first long hill. When we finally managed to limp our way off the freeway we then tried to run the heater to cool the engine. Worked like a treat although it meant travelling in 35C with all the windows down but it did get us to our campsite.

Two days later we left early morning thinking we at least had a solution to get us home. However, just as we got back onto the freeway we noticed that only cool air was coming through and then the engine temp shot up and over heated. Nothing we could do would get it to blow hot air (checked to make sure it was not on auto and air con was off). Eventually managed to limp home but not happy Jan.

Back to Jeep again and last Thursday the replaced the thermostat which the said was “faulty”. This time I was determined to take it on a test drive before heading off anywhere. Got only 20min down Eastlink before it over heated. Again the heater would not blow hit air. However, after again limping off the freeway, overheating 3 more times the heater finally started working again which at least made the return trip much faster. A friend then suggested the next day I try his pop top camper which is around half the weight of my van. Whilst I had to drive down to Arthur’s Seat, I was very relieved when the car over heated again as now I can rule out the caravan.

So now I have it booked in again on Friday to be looked. Whilst so far all of this has been covered by the extended warranty I took out, I am starting to get a little pissed. Replacing the “faulty” thermostat did not make a difference and it really looks like they have just been picking off the low hanging fruit. This time I will insist on speaking to the senior mechanic. What I see is that the temp will sit on under 110C until the car is stressed (usually takes a hill on highway speeds) and then it very quickly shoots up and over heats. I also want them to look at the heater issue.
  #20  
Old 05-04-2018
JGC-ANDY  JGC-ANDY is offline
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Wombat
you may find that both are related, to me it sounds as though you have an air bubble or air trapped somewhere, any air in the system or blockage and the car will run hot and when some water or gets past the blockage it will overheat very quickly.
try Natrad, they hook up a machine and force water through under pressure.
my 2012 diesel sits at about 80 degrees even in traffic it very rarely goes over 95.
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  #21  
Old 05-04-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wombat6 View Post
just as we got back onto the freeway we noticed that only cool air was coming through and then the engine temp shot up and over heated. Nothing we could do would get it to blow hot air (checked to make sure it was not on auto and air con was off).
Got only 20min down Eastlink before it over heated. Again the heater would not blow hit air. However, after again limping off the freeway, overheating 3 more times the heater finally started working again which at least made the return trip much faster.. I also want them to look at the heater issue.
The heater going cold at the time it overheats is a symptom not a fault.

You likely have a faulty head gasket as combustion gas seeps into the cooling system it creates an internal gas bubble which more often than not disrupts the coolant flow and often the symptom appears as overheating and a cold heater because of no or very poor water flow.

I have seen this happen on other makes in the past and an experienced dealer will be aware of it too, IMO they are just trying to kick the problem down the road.

Sometimes a tell tale will be the occasional sound of rushing water behind the dash.
  #22  
Old 05-04-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic Boy View Post
The heater going cold at the time it overheats is a symptom not a fault.

You likely have a faulty head gasket as combustion gas seeps into the cooling system it creates an internal gas bubble which more often than not disrupts the coolant flow and often the symptom appears as overheating and a cold heater because of no or very poor water flow.

I have seen this happen on other makes in the past and an experienced dealer will be aware of it too, IMO they are just trying to kick the problem down the road.

Yep definitely agree... if it has overheated even once the growth stretches the head bolts & then the tension is not the same (They are stretch to yield, one use only) , it will progressively get worse (Which in your case it has) & eventually major failure/Damage will ensue. If it was me I would approach FCA & discuss with them that both head gaskets be replaced, if problem is cured afterwards then they pay costs, if not your up for it. They will try & buggerise you around until you give up. Either way it has to be fixed!
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Last edited by Starion VR4; 05-04-2018 at 04:44 PM.
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  #23  
Old 06-04-2018
TR Laredo  TR Laredo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starion VR4 View Post
Yep definitely agree... if it has overheated even once the growth stretches the head bolts & then the tension is not the same (They are stretch to yield, one use only) , it will progressively get worse (Which in your case it has) & eventually major failure/Damage will ensue. If it was me I would approach FCA & discuss with them that both head gaskets be replaced, if problem is cured afterwards then they pay costs, if not your up for it. They will try & buggerise you around until you give up. Either way it has to be fixed!
This pretty well sums it up - I hope they sort it out for you. Which dealer are you taking it to?
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  #24  
Old 06-04-2018
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As I said in a previous post you need to get the dealer to get authorisation from FCA to dig deeper - which in my case meant the head came off and was sent to an external engineer for analysis.

Your problem sounds so much like what I experienced. The vehicle only overheated when towing (1.5 tons in my case) and even a mild incline created enough load to overheat the engine.

Good luck with it, I hope you get it sorted soon.

Cheers,

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