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  #15  
Old 24-01-2018
JamesLaugesen  JamesLaugesen is offline
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Worth checking the brakes and ABS sensors first.
ABS/BLD is always active regardless of ESP so if a wheel speed sensor is confused it'll go crazy on the brakes. It'll usually disable cruise control at the same time so you can use that as a test.

The only times I've had issues is with bad sensors. The cable and/or connection in the sensor seems to fail and give errors when the cable moves during suspension travel.
No issues with good sensors with 2", 32" tyres and no sway bars.

Didn't notice any difference before & after calibrating for the tyres.

Re; turning it off...
It's always fully off in low-range.
But in hi-range a short press on the button puts it in "partially off" mode.
Long press ~6 seconds turns it off fully, but it automatically switches back to "partially off" once you get over 60 or 70km/hr... can't remember the exact speed.
So it's impossible to avoid some intervention at highway speed, aside from pulling the fuse
  #16  
Old 24-01-2018
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WH3.0  WH3.0 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesLaugesen View Post
Worth checking the brakes and ABS sensors first.
ABS/BLD is always active regardless of ESP so if a wheel speed sensor is confused it'll go crazy on the brakes. It'll usually disable cruise control at the same time so you can use that as a test.

The only times I've had issues is with bad sensors. The cable and/or connection in the sensor seems to fail and give errors when the cable moves during suspension travel.
No issues with good sensors with 2", 32" tyres and no sway bars.

Didn't notice any difference before & after calibrating for the tyres.

Re; turning it off...
It's always fully off in low-range.
But in hi-range a short press on the button puts it in "partially off" mode.
Long press ~6 seconds turns it off fully, but it automatically switches back to "partially off" once you get over 60 or 70km/hr... can't remember the exact speed.
So it's impossible to avoid some intervention at highway speed, aside from pulling the fuse
Cheers . ARH this is maybe why when in low range i have had it still intervene, and for high i will try the 6 sec hold next time, does it come up with saying anything else on the dash ?

Might check all my sensor connections and wiring too.

and no sway bars you say, what was i reason for having them disconnected, do you have them disconnected at all times, both front and rear disconnected ?
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  #17  
Old 30-01-2018
JamesLaugesen  JamesLaugesen is offline
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Originally Posted by WH3.0 View Post
i will try the 6 sec hold next time, does it come up with saying anything else on the dash ?
I think from memory (not near my Jeep atm.) when it's partially off it just illuminates the indicator light, and when it's fully off it makes a chime along with the indicator light.
Pretty-sure that's the source of the chime you get when putting it into 4lo.


Quote:
Originally Posted by WH3.0 View Post
and no sway bars you say, what was i reason for having them disconnected, do you have them disconnected at all times, both front and rear disconnected ?
I first removed them just to make space while I was doing other work and also help troubleshoot some rattles. But ended up leaving them off as I found it nicer to drive on bad corrugations, and we had a couple of trips coming up. The WH is purely a 4wding/camping car for us. Could be annoying for a daily driver.

I'll be putting them back on soon though when I do the bushes and JBA upper control arms, just so I'm working from a clean slate.
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  #18  
Old 21-02-2018
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WH3.0  WH3.0 is offline
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well i finally got the Hypertech calibrator.
so i programmed in my tyre size and plugged into the car and couple of minutes later after a few presses of button she's all done,and what and improvement its made i can now drive around with out having to turn the ESP off every time i start it, and the ESP hasn't tried to cut in at all yet. haven't had a chance to try it out with the cruise control yet but after the difference around town it made im sure it will be all good too.
and another bonus i wont have to worry about the speedo being out now.
heaps better now the WH knows what speed its actually doing

im bloody wrapped
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  #19  
Old 24-02-2018
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Hanna  Hanna is offline
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Good work mate - glad to hear it was a success!

You may have to play around with the tyre size a bit with trial and error (using a GPS/Speedo checker to obtain actual ground speed) as when I first put my new 245/75R17 (31.5" in the old money) and set the calibrator to 31.5" the speedo was out by about 2-3km/hr.

I think I reduced it to about 31" for a while and then reduced it to about 30.5" as the tyres wore down.

The best thing about the calibrator is that it fixes your transmission shift points over time (as the trans learns your driving style) and it also fixes your odometer and therefore you get a more accurate L/100km reading from the EVIC.

The code reading/clearing is a bonus. Well worth the money IMHO.
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