Rear Diff swap to a Dana 44

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will add pics if photobucket will hurry up and edit comments when I can

reference is this excellent writeup by gojeep

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoD44EADiscBrakes.htm




factory manual YJ axle setup, shows retaining plate


below is a pic of my arrangement, note NO INNER bearing retainer plate, instead, the oil seal is retained within a recess in the caliper bracket.

This is VERY confusing, as, when I bolted it together, it SEEMS like it might be meant to be that way...maybe the recess in the bracket has been machined?

If the bearing retainer plate has same visual axle hole ID as FSM, pic above, then I cannot see how it could "slip" off and be lost, as the bearing retainer/seal/bearing are fixed in place, and would not allow the ring retainer to pass.

Thinking out loud, next I will endeavour to measure the compressed thickness of seal/bearing/retainer and compare that to the relevant housing/recess distance, and hopefully they are the same. I do not understand how correct bearing preload is established with this arrangement




this pic shows what appears to be the original bearing retainer plate located on other side of caliper bracket (similar to gojeep)...witness marks prove thats where it belongs.

The PO does not recall removing any items, I will show him, but its hard to tell..EVEN after pre-assembly, has to be got right though!

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below is a pic of my arrangement, note NO INNER bearing retainer plate, instead, the oil seal is retained within a recess in the caliper bracket.


Thinking out loud, next I will endeavour to measure the compressed thickness of seal/bearing/retainer and compare that to the relevant housing/recess distance, and hopefully they are the same. I do not understand how correct bearing preload is established with this arrangement




So I did measure, and turns out that the pic DOES show a (round) plate, it was just stuck very hard to the caliper bracket.

the "gap" of the machined recess in plate, and axle housing bearing retainer, is ~0.10" LESS than the bearing and seal compressed by fingers, so it looks that it was all fitted correctly.

Looking at this setup, which is shown in the FSM pic in previous post, it does mean the axle bearing pre-load is ONLY set by pressure from the oil seal on the bearing??

All these items are new in the box for replacement

In another good omen, my gears are already winging there way form USA, AND got the lower "offer" price, even though I bid the "pay it now" too

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hopefully solved another issue, made contact with a good old-school wrecker who said I could pull "whatever rear EA brake parts for $50, as long as I do it myself, cobber"

been a few years since GoJeep wrote his article and EA are not common these days ( I need handbrake cables, maybe a steel line or two

Once I have spoken to the PO, and received my R&P, will hone 6 old bearings to use as setup tools, might also make a DIY case spreader

here is a superb article on Diff rebuild, Dana 60
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

there is a equally good article on installing an ARB carrier, but newer style, on a GM axle

here is a very detailed thread about Jeep D44 rebuild ** note...later replies in postings state there is a factual error, so be aware, and read right thru,
if u gonna use it...edited in so I dont lose it myself

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90711

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progress, as I visited the PO and bought the ARB compressor of him $100, which was a good decision, as now have ALL the needed parts,(except EA handbrake cables) hugely important, as I have found.

Got the missing brake hoses. (also grabbed some bargain parts like a brand new dizzy, TPS, may used parts

took me 20min each to hone 2 X old pinion bearing cone so they are a tight slip fit on the pinion gear. (1 more cone to hone, 2 races which are quicker)

next step to establish pinion gear depth, as I have no starting reference point, only a box of mixed shims (now sorted)

then, using below info from the D44 FSM, about pinion depth, (2.625") will mount pinion, and using inside micrometers and a straight edge, establish pinion depth from housing edge

next, mount axles, using a bit in axle centre dimples, establish centreline depth, same method

then a few calculations should give me a figure, to add shims to come close with the critical initial pinion depth, hopefully within 5 thou



have also been able to gather a good library of vital info, will list up later, covering both ARB and D44 installation, and part identification, it would be impossible for someone like me to to successfully complete this work without it

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As I have to commence another auto project, with a deadline, start tmz, last update for a bit

built a cart to move the project



found a good thread on this forum

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...hlight=dana+44

made a preliminary assembly of my pile of parts, and did some measuring and calculating with the 4.10 "thick" gearset.

have been trying to find some way of ID this unit, no stamps
" about 3 inches from pumpkin, front of axle tube RHS"

other stamp dont match Dana part nums, BUT date of 08/99 is stamped on top LHS sway bracket!

All this means I cannot ID my unit for sure, and there is several ways to assemble with slingers and shims, so this makes things very tricky.

Luckily, witness marks on old pinion gear give clear evidence of position of bearings. My measurements also correspond pretty close

My 3.54 gears should arrive on Monday, but I wont be able to do any more setup for a month or so.

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havent had time to do any more work on it, but here is a couple of things i came across..as my bearing caps were not clearly marked, reading "all Dana axles have letters stamped to orient bearings"

My eyes simply could not see them for a long time.. K
horizontal on other side



also, stories of struggling with pinion seal.

here is an easy method, change under car, never failed me.

tape drill, then 2 (or better 4) tiny holes in seal lip, screw in self- tapper adapted for slide hammer, go patiently, bobs yr uncle.

If yr rattle gun cant undo the pinion nut, jack the car, and use its weight, or jack the wrench handle to break the torque..3/4" gear preferred..mark the nut position and use same method to replace

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In this video, the specialist shows how he establishes axle centre line and pinion depth, (without the expensive pinion depth tools)...a problem which has held me up from starting

I dont have a depth micrometer either, but DO have Inside Mics, and a good straight edge, so should be able to achieve the same

explanations starts ~6min 57sec

You Tube

its a Ford 9" but the principle is the same

My D35 is leaking oil & whining, so I need to break out the tools asap