You've got the bug bad Chris, the only way I stopped (for a while) was by breaking stuff......then holding back from fixing them! Mind you my new Alloy Y link upper arm arrived a few weeks back and I'm dying to get it going again ;p!
It's great fun Stu.. also a good way to muck around with my 7yr old
So... my build is under way... well sort of. I need to reduce the wheel base by quite a bit. I've just put the rear alloy links on but think that I'll need to cut them down.
As you can see it just not going to fit like this.
This pic is just for fun... it's with my new 1.9 Rok Lox
__________________
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
I'm working on the rear first and started it as a 3 link but have now changed it to a 4 link as I want to maintain good flex while reducing the length of the control arms.
I'm using the shorter arms to test out the measurements as I'm not really sure what will work..... and I don't want to cut the control arms just yet as I need to know what will be the length.
4 link.
Pulling it apart again and finding out that the drive shaft will be too long for such a short arm kit!!!
One thing I can take from the exercise is that the diff is sitting in a good position for the rear but will need to move back a little and should be OK to do so as I've still got the front sitting on the stock links.
It's also worth noting that I don't like how far forward the shocks are having to lean. I know I can drill new holes to move the hoop shock mounts around to it's not really a problem at this stage.
Judd, I really wanted your advice & imput at this stage in my build. You may have measurements that I could work with for the control arms or something like that.
__________________
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
I'm working on the rear first and started it as a 3 link but have now changed it to a 4 link as I want to maintain good flex while reducing the length of the control arms.
I'm using the shorter arms to test out the measurements as I'm not really sure what will work..... and I don't want to cut the control arms just yet as I need to know what will be the length.
4 link.
Pulling it apart again and finding out that the drive shaft will be too long for such a short arm kit!!!
One thing I can take from the exercise is that the diff is sitting in a good position for the rear but will need to move back a little and should be OK to do so as I've still got the front sitting on the stock links.
It's also worth noting that I don't like how far forward the shocks are having to lean. I know I can drill new holes to move the hoop shock mounts around to it's not really a problem at this stage.
Judd, I really wanted your advice & imput at this stage in my build. You may have measurements that I could work with for the control arms or something like that.
The shorter the arms are the more the axle will walk under flex or droop, meaning you can have it sitting in the centre of the guard but when the tyre is pushed in the it might rub the front of the flare area.
Besides that, the truck is looking sweet, you need 1.55in rims but
If i didnt answer what you wanted let me know, and ill try. I have struggled with heaps of 4 links with length of stuff so chances are i can share some knowlege
Thanks Judd, you have helped.. I'll make some changes and post up again in the next few days when I've had time to do some more work.
I do have another question though. In real terms what are 1.9 Flat irons and 1.9 Rox Lox.. 33's.... 35's?
Thats ok mate, when you redo the control arms, try put the lowers as far out on the diff and as far in on the chassis, the do the opposite for the uppers, also try keep the uppers and lowers parallel to each other when lookin side on, this will help with torque twist and make it articulate easily
How good are rox lox, i love them, i use them on my comp truck scaled up i think they are 42s and flat irons are bout 39s i think, ill have to measure and check.
Have you thought bout going to a 1.55in rim? The tyre variety isn't as big but you can cut and shut tyres from 1.9 to 1.55
How good are rox lox, i love them, i use them on my comp truck scaled up i think they are 42s and flat irons are bout 39s i think, ill have to measure and check.
Have you thought bout going to a 1.55in rim? The tyre variety isn't as big but you can cut and shut tyres from 1.9 to 1.55
Well I'm itching to give the rox lox a drive (not had a go yet).
I've not thought about 1.55s and I'm not really sure what cut and shut means but I'm thinking you would end up with what would look like a 15" rim with some big mother tyres.
__________________
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
Today I cut some of the front and back of the chassis rail but I think I still need to take more from the front (the front wheel well looks a little to open to be real.
I just wanted to see it with the spare... it will sit higher.
(a fuel tank would look nice under the back)
I've taken the alloy shorter upper arms from my sons crawler (painted them matte black) and used them with alloy arms from my upgrade kit. I've not used the longer arms seen in the pic but the two part arms instead.
__________________
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
Yes.. I've been working on my dining table as going under the house in the work shop means the kids have full run of the house. And I clean up every time.
__________________
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
I've painted the front bull bar... not much else as I've been painting my sons Defender (pic on other thread). I'm going to mount the winch as per the below pic.. so it will be permanently attached to the front bar.
I plan to start painting more of the Jeep this week.
Judd... I've been giving some thought as to how I will attach the shell. The plan is to drill 2 holes on the front bullbar which would be hidden by the winch (either side). The rear, I'm thinking of using the stock SCX10 bull bar mounts that are part of the crossmember and drilling some holes at the back of the new rear bar and attach it that way. This would then be hidden by the spare tyre, is that how you attached yours?
__________________
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
Judd... I've been giving some thought as to how I will attach the shell. The plan is to drill 2 holes on the front bullbar which would be hidden by the winch (either side). The rear, I'm thinking of using the stock SCX10 bull bar mounts that are part of the crossmember and drilling some holes at the back of the new rear bar and attach it that way. This would then be hidden by the spare tyre, is that how you attached yours?
my front is hooked up similar and my rear has a female type bit fixed to the body and a male type bit fixed to the chassis. so i slide the back on and then clip the front in.
my front is hooked up similar and my rear has a female type bit fixed to the body and a male type bit fixed to the chassis. so i slide the back on and then clip the front in.
Interesting.. that would keep it nice and tidy.
__________________
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
Yea it works pretty well. I dont like the idea of body mounts and pins being seen.
I had a different chassis then you but and i did mine as a scratch build sorta. So it took some hours lol
You cant notice in my pics, but i used 3 cans of different colour paint before the yellow went on. I done many layers of silver and bronze, so when it gets scratched past the yellow it looks like bare metal and rust
AJOR does not vouch for or warrant the accuracy, completeness
or usefulness of any message, and are not responsible for the contents of any
message. The messages express the views of the author of the message, not necessarily
the views of AJOR or any entity associated with AJOR, nor should any advice
be substituted as technical advice replacing that of a mechanic. You agree,
through your use of this service, that you will not use AJOR to post any material
which is knowingly false and/or defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful,
harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's
privacy, religious, political or otherwise violative of any law. You agree not to post any copyrighted
material unless the copyright is owned by you or by AJOR. The owner, administrators
and moderators of AJOR reserve the right to delete any message or members for
any or no reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of
your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold harmless AJOR, the administrators,
moderators, and their agents with respect to any claim based upon transmission
of your message(s). The use of profile signatures to intentionally mislead or misdirect any member on this forum is not acceptable and may result in your account being suspended. Any trip that is organised through the AJOR forum is participated
at your own risk. If you or your vehicle is damaged it is your responsibility,
not that of the person that posted the thread, message or topic initiating the
trip, nor the organisers of AJOR or moderators of any specific forum. This forum
and associated website is the property of AJOR.
YJ Jeep Wrangler
+JZcw~~0_12.JPG)
.
