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Old 06-10-2016
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Default TJ: Faithy's TJ with Patrol diffs and dual transfers...

Thought Id share my build. Been lurking on here for a few years, mostly abusing the 4-sale section without really contributing anything

Anyway, bought an 03 TJ a few years back from some fella called Will that frequents this forum. Nice rig that came with 125,000kms, 3.5 RE lift, 33 KM2s, 4.11s with ARBs f&r, some ugly HIDs and some Tupac in the CD player 


Drove her up to Fraser Island a couple months later and hydraulic locked the engine on Eli Creek. Worst part is it was only about 400mm deep Id just removed the airbox snorkel that people talk about removing and hit the creek a bit fast trying to make camp before it got dark. Bit of shit luck that any water got in. After a $1,200 tow back to Rainbow Beach, AAMI insurance decided to write it off.

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Old 06-10-2016
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After an 18 month shit right with AAMI through the FOS (useless) and the NSW Civil and Administrative Tribunal, then the local court, I finally beat those SOBs and got the TJ back, threw a new engine in (and an 06 NVG370), got a blue slip and rego and had $7k left over thanks to AAMIs incompetence. Thanks dickheads.

Dropped it down to a 40mm lift with Bilstein shocks and swapped the KM2s for some 33 ATs. Drove heaps better with flatter LCAs and flatter panhard rods..
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Old 06-10-2016
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Wheeled it like this for a little while but kept getting hung up on the factory belly pan..


Then bent the tie rod
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Old 06-10-2016
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Decided to build a HPD30 for the front and push it forward 2. Also swapped f&r gears for 4.88, got a Currie Antirock for the front and threw in a 1 BL and 1 MML and flat bellied it


Front stretch:


Cross member for flat belly:


Flat belly:



Grabbed some WG/WJ knuckles and brakes for the front and did a quick write-up: http://www.ausjeepforum.com.au/forum...d.php?t=144422
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Old 06-10-2016
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Put some 11 RS9000XLs in the front and went for a 600km boys trip. Went great but ripped part of the exhaust off and smashed both rear Bilsteins. It was a wild 300km ride home without rear shocks and half an exhaust..
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Old 06-10-2016
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Bought a Dana 300 transfer case from the US. For those that dont know, the D300 was put in 80-86 Jeeps. Its a cast iron case, all gear driven transfer with 2.64:1 gearing in low. It can be twin sticked standard, giving the ability to put it in rear low or do front digs. 4:1 gearsets are available for them as well as 32 spline HD front and rear output shafts. Its what people say AA modelled the Atlas after.

I decided to run dual transfers over lower gearing in a single case so I can still wheel in sand and mud if Im feeling particularly redneck. I decided on NWFs Ecobox-I its a billet case that you put the planetary gear reduction from the NP231/242 etc into and it fits between the gearbox and D300. Its only 5.3 long too giving my dual case setup less length than a stock NP231. Itll have 1:1, 2.64:1, 2.72:1 and 7.18:1 transfer gearing - http://www.northwestfab.com/NWF-EcoB...ic_p_2666.html. With the NVG370 6-speed and 4.11 Patrol diffs (see next post), itll give me a 135:1 crawl ratio. Got a sweet cable shifter from JB Custom Fab in the US.

The potential issue with having a D300 is it has a drivers side front output shaft. They can be flipped but Im not a fan of the idea and apparently they leak a shit-tonne.
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Old 06-10-2016
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Seen some GQ Patrol diffs come up in good condition and at a good price so jumped on them. GQ/GU Patrol and 80/105 Cruisers have a drivers side front diff which will work nicely with the D300 transfer case so it seemed like an obvious choice..

Let's get this out of the way first... why Patrol diffs over Danas:
-Price - $400 for a pair of GQ diffs in great condition;
-Strength - Patrol front gears are stronger than a D30 and D44; Patrol king pins are stronger than D30 and D44 ball-joints. However, a D60 front and/or rear is stronger in almost every regard;
-Availability in Australia;
-High pinion rear is easily/cheaply possible for Patrols. Helps with rear shaft angle when running a flat belly and dual transfers!! Not as strong being run on the coast side of the gear but they've survived on V8's running 37's for a couple of years; and
-More easily shaved for better ground clearance.

Thats my reasoning anyway and Im sticking to it! I had a HPD44 and rear D60 but flogged them off. I know most US-fanboys get a hard on for them but, for my needs, the Patrol diffs seemed hard to go past. Ive got some chromoly front axles, a front locker and a .7mm shim for the rear LSD ready to go.
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Old 06-10-2016
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Faithy  Faithy is offline
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Made friends with the young bloke that runs the CNC plasma table at the local steel supply yard and got some brackets but for the Patrol diff swap. Im mid-way through it as we speak. I know people have run Patrol diffs under TJs in the past but theres not much info on them, let alone a write up that I could find. Ill take pics as I go and try and make the process for my build clear.

First up, strip the housing. Cut-off wheels on the 5 make life easier but stripping brackets off diffs sucks no matter how you do it. I use a combo of grinding discs and flap discs to get the housing smooth after most of the cuttings done. I shaved her

Weld on the control arm brackets/mounts. Im going a 3-link w/ panhard in the front for less bind:




Ive finished of the diff panhard bracket. It was a bit tight actually. Youll see above I made a high steer knuckle had a spare 60 series Cruiser pitman arm laying around that I welded to the knuckle and braced it. Itll let me run the drag link higher which means I can run the panhard higher for a flatter angle (less lateral pull when flexing) and higher roll steer for more stability at speed. It also allowed me to run a hydro assist ram to the old steering arm.

Ghetto high steer knuckle was pre-heated to 200C then burned in hot with the mig an inch at a time, allowing some time to cool between passes so it didnt warp, then a slow air cool. No warping, no cracks and I have full confidence in its strength:


Tapped steering box for ram assist:


Thats where Im at at the moment. Still to do:
Front diff shock mounts and swaybar mounts;
Fit front locker, new bearings in front diff centre, rebuild swivel hubs and wheel bearings and put back together;
Rear diff strip down and weld CA brackets on;
Control arm brackets welded to the chassis;
Make high pinion rear diff with shimmed LSD and new bearings;
Fit NP231 gears to the crawl box;
Make new cross member for dual transfers;
Bolt dual transfer cases up and route cable shifters;
Make custom front and rear shaft DC 1310s at the transfer case end and graft GQ shafts on midway for the GQ uni and flange to suit the diff flanges;
Custom fuel tank or dented factory tank for 2-3 rear stretch;
Re-route exhaust;
Fit rear RS9000XLs not sure about outboarding or through the tub floor??; then
Drive the piss out of it.

Anyway, lots to do. Builds like this can easily take longer than you expect and you tend to hit the wall when its only half done. Im posting this in the hopes that you bastards will hold me accountable to getting her done in a timely manner. Feel free to rag on my ghetto high steer or offer any insight along the way. Appreciate it!

Josh
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