TJ: Faithy's TJ with Patrol diffs and dual transfers... - Page 2 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

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  #8  
Old 06-10-2016
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Made friends with the young bloke that runs the CNC plasma table at the local steel supply yard and got some brackets but for the Patrol diff swap. I’m mid-way through it as we speak. I know people have run Patrol diffs under TJ’s in the past but there’s not much info on them, let alone a write up that I could find. I’ll take pics as I go and try and make the process for my build clear.

First up, strip the housing. Cut-off wheels on the 5” make life easier but stripping brackets off diffs sucks no matter how you do it. I use a combo of grinding discs and flap discs to get the housing smooth after most of the cutting’s done. I shaved her

Weld on the control arm brackets/mounts. I’m going a 3-link w/ panhard in the front for less bind:




I’ve finished of the diff panhard bracket. It was a bit tight actually. You’ll see above I made a high steer knuckle – had a spare 60 series Cruiser pitman arm laying around that I welded to the knuckle and braced it. It’ll let me run the drag link higher which means I can run the panhard higher for a flatter angle (less lateral pull when flexing) and higher roll steer for more stability at speed. It also allowed me to run a hydro assist ram to the old steering arm.

Ghetto high steer knuckle was pre-heated to 200C then burned in hot with the mig an inch at a time, allowing some time to cool between passes so it didn’t warp, then a slow air cool. No warping, no cracks and I have full confidence in its strength:


Tapped steering box for ram assist:


That’s where I’m at at the moment. Still to do:
• Front diff shock mounts and swaybar mounts;
• Fit front locker, new bearings in front diff centre, rebuild swivel hubs and wheel bearings and put back together;
• Rear diff strip down and weld CA brackets on;
• Control arm brackets welded to the chassis;
• Make high pinion rear diff with shimmed LSD and new bearings;
• Fit NP231 gears to the crawl box;
• Make new cross member for dual transfers;
• Bolt dual transfer cases up and route cable shifters;
• Make custom front and rear shaft… DC 1310’s at the transfer case end and graft GQ shaft’s on midway for the GQ uni and flange to suit the diff flanges;
• Custom fuel tank or dented factory tank for 2-3” rear stretch;
• Re-route exhaust;
• Fit rear RS9000XL’s – not sure about outboarding or through the tub floor??; then
• Drive the piss out of it.

Anyway, lots to do. Builds like this can easily take longer than you expect and you tend to hit the wall when it’s only half done. I’m posting this in the hopes that you bastards will hold me accountable to getting her done in a timely manner. Feel free to rag on my ghetto high steer or offer any insight along the way. Appreciate it!

Josh
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  #9  
Old 06-10-2016
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Almost forgot...
I'll be running 7075-T6 2" solid alloy lower CA's with Synergy DD bushings. The links are 600mm long and the rod ends will make it around 720mm from eye-to-eye putting me firmly in the mid arm bracket. I'll be running a 200 series Cruiser stock rear lower CA for my front upper and GU rear lower CA's for my rear uppers. I got real sick of tightening RE flex joints...





Links were made by Buds Customs courtesy of Dave as Designfab Industries. The Synergy bushings were ordered in from SBR - they got a better price than I could direct from the US.
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  #10  
Old 06-10-2016
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Well done Josh, can't wait to see it done.

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  #11  
Old 07-10-2016
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Great job I've got a set of diffs but not sure if im ging to do them yet. Looking at your coil buckets why didnt you go a coil over route?
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2016
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Coilovers would make it A LOT easy to package everything. I just already have coils and these shocks are new. I'll see how it goes. Might end up with coilovers yet.
Do it mate
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Old 07-10-2016
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What transfer case are you running? I was planing on flipping the diff and using a rear diff center so the crown wheel isn't back ward so i can keep my set up. I've alread spent a lot doing the 8.8 and by the time I've spent money on the gq diff i could have a built d30.

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Old 07-10-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang0 View Post
What transfer case are you running? I was planing on flipping the diff and using a rear diff center so the crown wheel isn't back ward so i can keep my set up. I've alread spent a lot doing the 8.8 and by the time I've spent money on the gq diff i could have a built d30.

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I've got a Dana 300 with NWF billet gear reduction in front of it for a dual transfer case setup. See post #6. It bolts directly betweem all TJ gearboxes (and AW4's) and the D300 without any adapters... pretty trick aye.

If you flip the rear diff centre, it'll run backwards. The crownwheel relief in the housing will be on the wrong side when flipping a housing which means the pinion would turn any crownwheel the wrong way. It's easy to clearance the housing to put the crownwheel relief on the other side but you'll need to weld the stud holes, machine the face flat and re-drill and tap the stud holes. I've seen some Hilux guys do it but more of the studs line up on them.

I spent some money on my HP30 and 44 setup too but I sold them for a decent price and it covered the purchase of the Patrol diffs, chromoly axles, front locker and new bearings.

It'd be weird running the 5x4.5 rear wheel pattern and the 6x5.5 front wheel pattern. Plus, you'll have the GQ rear diff in for less than what the 8.8 will fetch... Rear Patrol diff = $150, front centre (if going for a rear high pinion) = $80, shim for rear LSD = $8, shaved centre = $5 in scrap plate, brackets and coil seats = $150. Total = $393 total for a strong rear with high pinion, awesome LSD and 33spl axles. They don't have the handbrake on the rear though so I'm planning to put my Subaru Leone calipers on the rear discs so I'll have a real handbrake = another $180 for calipers and pads. Cables look like they'll fit right up.

A built 30 will never be close to the same in terms of strength, let alone the manual locking hubs, bigger brakes and no inverted Y steering... This was my reasoning anyway. A 30 will be easier to build and is less likely to attract the attention none of us want. The D300 was my main reason for going the Patrol diffs and, due to the much lower gearing, and therefore increased torque, the extra strength will be needed.

Last edited by Faithy; 07-10-2016 at 09:49 AM.
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