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  #10  
Old 15-01-2017
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Decided if I'm going to keep pushing it, I'll need to get some more armour for the sides, because I can see me casing them pretty bad one day.

Started knocking these up. I'm going to run some dimples on the bottom to let water etc run off. I saw a lot of the companies didn't use the last body mount, but I thought 3 mounts has to be better then 2. I've got them back off ready for paint and i'll throw them back on, later on i'll bend some pipe for sliders to mount as low as i can on the side.







Pete
  #11  
Old 19-01-2017
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Looks good mate. Should have gone mini boatsides http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=146849
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  #12  
Old 22-01-2017
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I like the look of them! But I had already gotten everything, maybe next time.

Today ran down a mates workshop to bend up the tube, its 38x5mm wall. Cut up all the bits and welded it on.

After a quick paint so I can use them this weekend then I'll take them off, sandblast and rhino coat them.



And fitted to the car ready to rock.



I'm going to pick up some dimple died material for the tops for steps, but I'm happy with them for now.

Pete.
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  #13  
Old 17-04-2017
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So.



Replaced the front Diff assembly and housing with an Aussie Lokka that was already installed. Extremely impressed, I have now made tracks I either struggled and gave up on, now was able to crawl them, not spin wheels and make an absolute mess.

Also regreased all the joints, new 80-140 in the front. Last real piece mechanically wise now is to finally do a SYE and get that belly pan off the ground.
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  #14  
Old 25-04-2017
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So went out, had a ball, locker is a massive improvement.



While doing one of the tracks, heard and felt a rock scrape in the rear, and thought nothing of it. Today while doing some stuff found the aftermath.





rock had bent the end of the chassis rail and the part of the last body mount, wedged itself in between the wheel, grazed all the rail, knocked the exhaust off the hanger and popped out. It didn't seem so bad when it happened, but it's hit the underneath of my slider so i'm guessing that had saved more of the rail/mount.

While I had the wheel off, I decided to fix my 3rd light problem which was the bracket for the 2 contacts was bent, bent it back in, and fixed. Also, while wheeling a few weeks ago with SBR down at Harvey, I ripped the number plate bracket off the stock location. So I made a new bracket :



I used the stock light light, but couldn't work out what to do about the wiring. I took the bracket apart and worked out how the 2 contacts work for the 3rd brake light, modified it so the bottom one was the positive, and then used the top one for the positive for the number plate light, then grounded them both. I found the plug for the plate light, got the positive off that then connected that to the top connector in the car.





Now I'm back to being 90% legalish on the road.

Pete.

Last edited by rexhunta; 25-04-2017 at 09:16 PM.
  #15  
Old 22-07-2017
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Tom Woods shaft.
Rugged Ridge SYE.



Also rear brake shoes, cylinder and Crown rebuild kit put through the brakes. All flushed and cleaned.



Teraflex HD cover.

Last edited by rexhunta; 25-07-2017 at 05:48 PM.
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  #16  
Old 18-12-2017
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Done a few smaller things, wheeled a lot more.

Bent a lower controller arm, so now put in another stock one, but have plated them all with 6mm steel for now until I buy new arms. I tend to use them to slide a lot apparantly.

Also got a Smittybilt CRES with a Spiderwebshade TJKini, so done a little bit of work to the shed to store it.

Added 3 new purlins in, couple of eyelets, pulleys, and a 12v 2000 pound winch so lift the roof up and sit it as high as I can get it. Made a spreader bar for the top, it sits flat while up in the ceiling, and is right out of the way.




Did Adelaide Road is is a lot of river crossings, basically cactus'd every bearing on the front of the motor. I didn't know, until i went out to Brunswick and the car got really hot, really quick. So dropped it into a large hole to cool it down.



So far I've replaced :
Idler pulley
Tensioner idler pulley
starter motor
clutch fan assembly
new shorter surpentine belt to bypass the air-con compressor cause the bearing has shat it now.
water pump + did the thermostat as a pre-caution and new coolant.

Someone has already had a go at the clutch assembly on the air-con, so i'm going to have to remove it and try and do it on the bench, the thread is destroyed inside of it.

Pete.
  #17  
Old 19-12-2017
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Hows your NV3550 going...
..did you try refilling with the OM oil?
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  #18  
Old 19-12-2017
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Seems fine? Im using the penrite equivalent that was in their manual.
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