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  #9  
Old 16-05-2017
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awg.................... easy to flip the front pads I am going to weld my front slide bit I found a welder on ebay for about $130 I have done a little bit before so I will figure it out it would cost me that much to get the mechanics down the road to do it and this way I get to get a new toy
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  #10  
Old 18-05-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbrown64 View Post
Those mounting ledges are really rails that the brake pads ride on. They take all the force of the brake pads trying to spin with the rotor as they clamp the rotor. The caliper is a floating caliper, meaning its just mounted on its own sliding rails/pins to fit over the pads and squeeze them like a vice, the caliper doesn't have to fight spinning with the rotor, the pads are on rails to counter that.

As the pad wear and become thinner, they have to move along that rail closer to the rotor so they can still make contact with the rotor, even though they are thinner. The caliper, having only one piston, has to also slide along its own rail/pins as the single piston extends to take up the difference of the thinner pads and pull the pads. This set up is far cheaper and more reliable, then other set-ups where you have to have multiple pistons on each side of the caliper to equally squeeze and move the pads and the caliper has to take up all the force/torque of wanting to spin with the rotor as it squeezes the rotor. The floating caliper has 1 piston, and its able to slide around over the top of the pads, which the pads are mounted solid on the rails around the rotor."

Here are mine below. The top and bottom rails were worn like this on both sides of the Jeep...



When the rails are worn, your pads can't slide properly and get jammed and twisted causing low pedal, uneven pad wear etc..

So, i got the welder out, and with a little dab of weld and a bit of grind i got a nice smooth surface for the pads to run along.
jut to make sure I better understand, before any possible weld & grind on brake parts, is the damage the small groove on the side that Alex has arrowed, or the entire long surface that is all corrugated?
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  #11  
Old 18-05-2017
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Same issue with my TerraFlex rear disk upgrade on my TJ
Installed for about 10,000k and (offroad) they sound like a plumber's toolbox.

I'll show this thread to my Mec
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  #12  
Old 18-05-2017
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You just weld the groove on the side, as your pads tend to get hung up in them. The corrugated surface just needs smoothing out. Just make sure pins and everything are clean and lubed and everything can run on the rails.
My calipers were in a bad way, so i replaced those.. i think one was a bit sticky and that may have contributed to excess wear on the pads.

I probably wouldn't swap pads over to the other side, due to abnormal wear already being on the pads. You want fresh pads (even if they are cheap ones), to bed into your rotors.

I now have EBC Yellow stuff pads, new calipers, braided brake lines, welded rails, and everything cleaned, lubed, bled and checked.
Everything seems well with the brakes now. Really good pedal height and pretty good braking even with the 33" tyres.

Cheers,
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Old 18-05-2017
awg  awg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbrown64 View Post
You just weld the groove on the side, as your pads tend to get hung up in them. The corrugated surface just needs smoothing out. Just make sure pins and everything are clean and lubed and everything can run on the rails.
My calipers were in a bad way, so i replaced those.. i think one was a bit sticky and that may have contributed to excess wear on the pads.

I probably wouldn't swap pads over to the other side, due to abnormal wear already being on the pads. You want fresh pads (even if they are cheap ones), to bed into your rotors.

I now have EBC Yellow stuff pads, new calipers, braided brake lines, welded rails, and everything cleaned, lubed, bled and checked.
Everything seems well with the brakes now. Really good pedal height and pretty good braking even with the 33" tyres.

Cheers,
thanks, I will take the items apart shortly, perhaps the sound is caused by the caliper not sliding on the pin, or brake pads, I will weld & grind that groove if found, and file the corrugations a bit.

in my hoard of parts from an XJ sellout, stored in the White one, is a new front pad set...dont really want to munch a new set like you did, so appreciate the tips

are the calipers easily rebuilt?
I have done other older vehicles before by squeezing out the pistons using the cars hydraulic system, and replacing seals...if the caliper or piston is pitted due to age, then replace or sleeve
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  #14  
Old 18-05-2017
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Rebuild kits are cheap, and it's an easy job. I did it but was never really happy. They just get old and perhaps the bores get a little worn. I finally replaced my callipers as they can be found relatively cheaply.
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  #15  
Old 12-12-2017
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I thought I would revive this thread as Hamish commented the other day on his thread about noisy brakes I havnt done anything yet except buy the welder ...I found today on rockauto anti rattle brake clips for $3.20 aud but 14 postage I got them anyway but cant find any where how to fit them? the rattle is annoying and I must do something about it might pull the wheel off tomorrow and have another look
and try and figure out a plan
_____ooooo
/__l_l_,\____\,___
l_---l_l__l---[ ]llllll[ ]
_.(o)_)__(o)_)--o-)_)
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NEW 96 XJ Limited LPG Conversion......as I Have Replaced EVERYTHING!
99 Sport Project
  #16  
Old 27-12-2017
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ok I got the anti rattle clips today from rock auto still going to weld build up the knuckle bit to stop the calliper from moving up and down ..........moving closer to fixing everything
_____ooooo
/__l_l_,\____\,___
l_---l_l__l---[ ]llllll[ ]
_.(o)_)__(o)_)--o-)_)
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NEW 96 XJ Limited LPG Conversion......as I Have Replaced EVERYTHING!
99 Sport Project
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