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  #9  
Old 22-02-2018
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Ordered some toys... adjustable swaybar links, front diff brushes (jeeperf) and swaybar disconnects but yet to fit them, also have to figure out if I have a 30mm or 33mm swaybar so I can order some new links as the old ones look tired and need refreshing.

Well I've been looking into a few issues with my transmission which hasnt been giving me the best economy (it was weirdly giving better fuel use on B roads than highways).
WH Hemi Transmission investigations

Long story short, looks like I've got a few codes to investigate and fluid to flush (for good measure). Along with the transmission codes I got myself a awesome list when I pulled a full report with my new BlueDriver. My gut feeling some of these have been festering in there for a long time but will clear all of them out and start afresh. The ones in italics I dont really care about and the ones in bold are at the top of the list.

Wireless Control Module Trouble Codes:
• C0077: Low Tire Pressure


Intrusion Module Trouble Codes:
• B1A3C: ACTIVE - Internal Siren Battery


Heat Ventilation and A/C Trouble Codes:
• B10A5: STORED - Left Blend Door Control Circuit Open

Radio Trouble Codes:
• U0019: STORED - Low Speed CAN Communication Bus
• B1421: STORED - Audio CD Read Error / Inoperable Disc


Heated Seat Module Trouble Codes:
• B210D: STORED - Battery Voltage Low


Anti Lock Brakes Trouble Codes:
• C121C: STORED - Torque Request Signal Denied

All Wheel / Final Drive Trouble Codes:
• C1421: STORED - Rear Differential Clutch Performance
• C141B: STORED - Front Differential Clutch Performance

Powertrain Control Module Trouble Codes:
• P0585: Cruise Control Multi-Function Input "A"/"B" Correlation

Transmission Control Module Trouble Codes:
• P1684: STORED - Battery Was Disconnected
• P0932: STORED - Hydraulic Pressure Sensor Circuit
• P0869: STORED - Transmission Fluid Pressure High

Amplifier Trouble Codes:
• B210E: STORED - Battery Voltage High
• B1472: ACTIVE - Channel 4 Audio Speaker Output Circuit Open

Last edited by Windex; 22-02-2018 at 10:13 PM.
  #10  
Old 03-03-2018
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Well I jumped in and cleaning my TB today... what a filthy mess it was, had been suggested to give cleaning it a shot to chase better fuel economy and its not like it cost me anything! I used a old tee shirt with alcohol on it and rubbed it to clean it up as I could, unfortunately the thing was so caked up there were some areas where I had to use a old credit card to get the caked nastyness off. She was far from perfect by the time I finished but the machined surfaces were clean and that's what I was aiming for, I also spent a bit of time cleaning the edge of the butterfly as it had quite a thick layer on it.

Before


After


Key things I did (no idea if these will ward off the dreaded ETC issues or not)
  1. Removed negative line from battery
  2. Unplugged TB
  3. Cleaned
  4. Bolted it all back together
  5. Connected battery
  6. Left the car in "ON" position for 3 minutes (while I updated by BlueDriver)
  7. Started car and checked for codes

Got a catchcan to mount somewhere but think I'll want to put it on the passenger side which will need a longer pipes for sure
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Last edited by Windex; 03-03-2018 at 02:22 PM.
  #11  
Old 03-03-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windex View Post
also have to figure out if I have a 30mm or 33mm swaybar so I can order some new links as the old ones look tired and need refreshing.
The bracket's are different for the 33 and 30, 33's have a hump in the centre

https://www.justforjeeps.com/frswbarbu.html
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  #12  
Old 04-03-2018
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Originally Posted by Clarky View Post
The bracket's are different for the 33 and 30, 33's have a hump in the centre

https://www.justforjeeps.com/frswbarbu.html
As I've got a 2005 it could be the one of the two options, I've definitely got the old style brackets, but from what I understand is that you can't get new brackets for the 30mm bar, so I've got to measure her up before I pull the trigger on either option.
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Old 27-06-2018
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Turned out that they were 33mm and once replaced with new rubber and new brackets my horrible clunking has also gone.

Had a new main muffler fitted which sounds good and has removed some of the exhaust leak, but suspect I've got one at the header also as it makes the horrible tick at idle when cold (pretty sure its header rather than lifter). Had to do a few random items, transmission pressure sensor along with full flush and filter change.


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  #14  
Old 02-07-2018
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As you suspect, it sounds like you have a leak from one of the exhaust manifolds. Either one is cracked or the gasket has blown out.

If the ticking sound only happens when its cold and then goes away when it warms up then def exhaust manifold.
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Old 02-07-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turismo07 View Post
As you suspect, it sounds like you have a leak from one of the exhaust manifolds. Either one is cracked or the gasket has blown out.

If the ticking sound only happens when its cold and then goes away when it warms up then def exhaust manifold.
It will be a broken manifold stud, common Hemi problem.
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  #16  
Old 04-07-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turismo07 View Post
As you suspect, it sounds like you have a leak from one of the exhaust manifolds. Either one is cracked or the gasket has blown out.

If the ticking sound only happens when its cold and then goes away when it warms up then def exhaust manifold.
Yeah that tends to be the case
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