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Old 16-11-2017
Barboots  Barboots is online now
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Bear voltage drop in mind when specifying cable diameter. It's usually somewhere in the vicinity of 15 metres round trip from the car battery to a caravan fridge and back.

Cheers, Steve
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Old 16-11-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy99 View Post
Bob

Thanks for that detailed walk through and Iím sure it will benefit many who use this forum, but I have decided to pay Jeep $250 to do it for me when I get the 1000km service in a couple of weeks. The day before I leave for an 3000km round trip to QLD. In this case time is money and I just donít have the time to get this done myself. As Barboots said the three way fridge will struggle on the caravan battery so I need this done ASAP.
Much appreciated though.

Hoppy
Hope you've given them instructions about the size of wiring you want etc. In my experience they'll use the bare minimum size. Also make sure they are putting a Voltage Sensitive Relay or some other isolation system on it! And a fuse or circuit breaker!
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Old 16-11-2017
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Originally Posted by want2travel View Post
Oops - forgot the text

The series of images show how I installed and Anderson plug on a MY2015 Laredo. I used a full kit from Kick Ass together with a 1 m extension. All the joints and termination (except for the pickup have pre-clamped Anderson plugs.

1. The positive is picked up from the + jump start terminal under the bonnet at the right hand side rear and this feeds to an inline fuse and on the first Anderson plug. All the cabling has been cover with loom tube from JayCar and all cabling has ben secured with cable ties.

2, The negative is picked up from the - jump start terminal, There is just enough space in the opening surrounding the cable bundle to feed the single cable. The negative feeds back into the first Anderson plug, bypassing the fuse.

The cable then passes across to the left of the vehicle behind the bulkhead separating the engine form the wiper mechanism. Cable ties are important to keep the power cable away from the wiper mechanism.

3. On the left hand side in the rear corner behind the bulkhead the VSR was mounted on the bulkhead with two bolts. The cable crossing from the right was then plugged into the VSR input Anderson plug. The supplied long cable to the rear (has Anderson conductors connect to one end but without the plastic Anderson plug fitting while the other end has the full plug) was then fed down through a hole in the large rubber plug in the bottom of the compartment under the VSR (hard to see once installed but not too hard top do). A piece of loom tube was placed above the rubber plug. The long cable was then fed down between the wheel arch and the lining and then a long piece of loom tube place over the entire long cable.

4. The cable was the picked up at the bottom of the wheel arch and fastened with cable ties and fed back in the space under the door sill.

5. A bit hard to see in the photo but the cable goes to the rear in the space and behind the supports so it is held securely.

6. At the rear it is fed up just in front of the rear wheel arch.

7. Then up alongside the fuel tank.

8. The over the top of the fuel tank and over the diff.

9. It the is goes straight back along the underneath of the floor.

10. A bracket was made up from a piece of flat aluminium (Bunnings) and this was fastened to the bumper mount. The conductor ends where then fitted to the shell on the final Anderson plug and the plug attached to the bracket.

11. All done

This approach is fast, fairly neat and does not require removing panels or installing more connectors to the already cramped battery space. Despite the several Anderson plugs there is very little power loss and it runs my caravan fridge (15A) without any problems - I would think it would carry a much greater current if required. All cable terminations have been done for you so no problems with buying/borrowing crimping devices.

Bob
You could save yourself running a long negative wire and just have a short piece from the Anderson plug to a earthed bolt nearby - that's how I did it and it has worked without any drama's.

Cheers,
DM
  #12  
Old 16-11-2017
imaz  imaz is offline
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That is some long cabling from the front to the back. For the long run and voltage drop consideration you probaby want to go with at least 2-4AWG which is bigger than what I can see from the photos.

Tapping in from the battery compartment is not as hard as you may think and ideal. You need to consider Jeeps cabling length from battery to the engine bay terminal as well.

But if it works for you, then great.

Please tell me you are not using blade fuses???

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Old 16-11-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notso View Post
Hope you've given them instructions about the size of wiring you want etc. In my experience they'll use the bare minimum size. Also make sure they are putting a Voltage Sensitive Relay or some other isolation system on it! And a fuse or circuit breaker!
I was going to deal with that the day I drop it off but I might try and speak to the installer beforehand the more I think about it.

Cheers
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Old 16-11-2017
Notso  Notso is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy99 View Post
I was going to deal with that the day I drop it off but I might try and speak to the installer beforehand the more I think about it.

Cheers
$250.00 sounds pretty cheap so worth checking what you are getting!

Yep, a lot of Auto Elecs have no idea of what we need in the way of power to a van etc. I don't know the wire size designations but mine is 5mm diameter wired to the Battery Positive and Negative terminals via a Voltage sensitive relay and circuit breaker. I have a knowledgeable Auto Elec nearby and all up it took him about an hour to run the cable etc.
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Old 16-11-2017
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I have just finished wiring 2 Anderson plugs for my new van. As it is an off-roader my local tow bar installers advice was not to use a 12 pin but stick with the seven pin and run the andersons separately; which I did. Firstly, toprovide power for the Alko ESC, I ran 6B&S cable from the battery with a 30amp fuse to the positive under the carpet and the b-pillar and door trim and came out in the side of the spare wheel well. I removed the spare wheel and the tie down screws at the tailgate and removed that trim and the mat under the spare to access the grommet to drill through to get the cable under the car and to the rear bumper where I screwed the red Anderson inside a weather resistant housing to the underside of the bumper on the opposite side to the 7 pin socket. Similarly, to power the caravan fridge during transits I ran a second 6B&S cable pair with another fuse and another Anderson plug from my second battery (which I sit behind the front passenger seat when I am touring and was already connected thru a Projecta dcdc charger to power the car fridge when I need it) This cable runs under the rear seat and into the spare wheel well on the passenger side and feeds thru the same grommet and is fixed next to the 7 pin socket; again in a weather resistant housing and a black Anderson plug in this case. For these longer runs you need the heavy cable to minimise voltage drop. It all works well. I bought all the Anderson plugs, covers, fuses and cable from Big Al on eBay.


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Old 17-11-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notso View Post
$250.00 sounds pretty cheap so worth checking what you are getting!

Yep, a lot of Auto Elecs have no idea of what we need in the way of power to a van etc. I don't know the wire size designations but mine is 5mm diameter wired to the Battery Positive and Negative terminals via a Voltage sensitive relay and circuit breaker. I have a knowledgeable Auto Elec nearby and all up it took him about an hour to run the cable etc.
Waiting on a call back from the Jeep service guys but will explain in detail what I'm after. Out of interest I asked ARB for a price on this when I was inquiring about bull bars and they told me it is $350 for any vehicle but cannot do it till January, to fit a rear Anderson plug. I'm pretty sure the Jeep service guys have done a few of these so hopefully they know what they are doing, its a very large dealership.
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