Parked the jeep on a decent hill yesterday, with my cosmetic handbrake on and in first gear. I come back half an hour later to find it half way down the hill, resting against a tree. No damage at all.
After moving it back & having a fiddle, I find that when I leave it in first, it rolls forward every now and then, turning the shaft & all. I have parked there tons of times with no hassle, but now it stuffs up.
Has anyone had similar experiences? I presume leaving it in second gear would be a better idea.
Had exactly the same prob, handbrake would not hold, adjusted it under the vehicle, still usless, :(
It wasnt until I had the rear shoes replaced that I found the cause, the RH side cable that attaches to inside the brake drum for the handbrake shoe was disconnected, been like that for a long time(probly since new) as the rub marks on the backing plate was fairly pronounced.
No wonder the handbrake didn't hold, since reconnecting it, no worries holds on any hill now [img]smile.gif[/img]
Second would certianly help it roll to the bottom of the hill faster & easier [img]tongue.gif[/img]
Reverse would be a better gear to select when pointed down hill & 1st better when pointed up hill.
Yes I have had the same thing (not as bad though) - NFI.....Any theories??? (other than swap an Auto in ;) )
park your jeep with the tire up agains the kerb dude.. thats what i did for months when i had no hand brake..
uphill, point wheel to the road and then roll back till you hit the kerb,
downhill, point wheel to kerb and than roll forward till you hit kerb..
Well if I have to be serious ... the jeep has a fairly low compression and first isn't that low so on a decent hill this creeping will happen.
The fix is
get the handbrake sorted
change to rear discs
select low low with t/case
a big rock under the wheel
the TJ hand brake is internationally recognised as being less than adequate just read some posts on JU
Went & saw Scuds in Chatswood today (Jeep Dealer). They tightened it again, and said that it's most likely due to my 'massive' 31" tyres, and the only thing they can think of doing is replacing the whole mechanism. Which I'm guessing will cost a fortune.
An interesing thing I did notice when I left there was that the normal brakes are a hell of a lot better now. Methinks it's not the handbrake as such, but the crappy rear drums that are the problem. Rear discs anyone?
Onr thing Iv'e found with the ZJ is that it holds no better with disks!!!!
Couple of things to look for on a drum rear end. (The car - not you)
Self adjusters are often not self adjusting. Do a manual adjust especially if you run in mud alot. Check and clean drums out often. High pressure hose is OK - dry them well.
Other thing is the handbrake cable is crappy wire and stretches heaps so you run out of adjustment pretty quickly. Not sure how to oversome this but the cable is not good. Adjusted mine 4-5 times 30k and it still won't hold well on the rear disks.
All else fails and you lack an appropriate tree, turn the wheels into the gutter, select first and also chock the rear wheel.
I found that the handbrake wouldn't work in reverse as the drum brakes are set up to work better going forwards.
Since going to Falson disk brakes the handbrake works much better and self adjusts which the old drums never did.
In a manual as stated above, you should always be in the opposite gear to the slope and heigher gears only make it worse. Just think what you do going down a steep hill, do you use first or fourth without brakes. [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
If a higher gear is selected, then a further distance must be travelled by the wheels to turn the driveshaft.
In first gear, it just barely moved, one turn every 20 seconds or so. In second, would it not take a fair distance of movement (or a big bloody hill) before it turned the d/s?
Remember I'm not talking about what happens when it's halfway down the hill, just about it moving in the first place.
As for turning into the gutter, In this circumstance it's a dirt hill with nothing but trees. Instead, I now carry a brick!
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