Hey you'll really be able to deliver the mail in record time then! ;) Growing up in the Rockies in the US I always wondered why the mail man drove a 2WD Jeep! AT least it was a Jeep!
i have done 2 so far and they wont be the last(v-8 clevo's into jeeps),,,what i did was to put the motor in the chasis where i want it to sit,,i use a engine hoist to move it around and hold it up,,once i have it right i tack weld a piece of RHS to the harmonic balancer pulleys so as it sits across the chasis,,then i am able to remove the hoist(normally have my rear x member done by this),,both times i have used the original ford mounts,,just makes it easier when i need to replace them later,,the first time i used plate to make up the chasis mounts and the last time i used RHS,,as in the piccy below,,if u need more help just yell out....
paz [img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0LgB0cPoOA0v!ToGmT*vOdzudWOYM26Kr!JP3dfr4OVc4WQSaP CxaOfn3O2F6xsrgBdr4AIr8r1g/Apr20_01.jpg[/img]
I have not done this so I can not talk from experience but from the research I have done so far you can buy the engine mounts for most common engines from the likes of Advance adapters and Marks adapters etc
If you talk to Tony from USA 4x4 in Melb and Wayne from Waynes world of conversions in QLD they have both done it more than once and know the tricks you may be able to buy engine mounts from them
That was exactly the info I was after. By looking at your pics, it looks like a complete weld in job?
I will try to modify the existing x-member and use RHS like u have (i had not thought of using RHS). Great idea takcing to the harmonic balancer too to get the position right..
I will just have to mock up its final position in order to get the angles right etc.
I will probably put anti crush tubes through the RHS as well, just for safety.
Looks like a nice jeep, not knowing anything about Jeeps, I would have thought the chassis on these things would have been boxed from the factory?
yep,,everything is weld in,,as you would already probably know,,but just in case,,dont weld across the chasis,,weld along it,,this way it will stop it from cracking,,and just for insurance,,i always do runs of weld about an 1" or 1 1/2" long (stitch),,this way if it does decide to crack then it will only go the length of the weld where it started...
paz :D
Quote:
Originally posted by Ed: Thanks Paz!
That was exactly the info I was after. By looking at your pics, it looks like a complete weld in job? ;)
this is my first foray into chassis work, so the tech tips provided are very helpful.
Im guessing with your welding tips along the chassis rather than across the chassis is to compensate for any cracking resulting from the torsional twist of the chassis rails.
which would mean welding the top and bottom edges of the engine mounts only? (as per your picture)
Is this also why you have a cross member running behind the mounts as well, to both decrease chassis flex, and to provide a solid welding point to the rear face of the engine mount?
Do you see any benefit of full welding your mounts to a spreader plate and in turn bolting that plate to the chassis? or just an unecessary extra step?
I appreciate your time and patience, im just trying to understand the science and engineering behind the design, as i work to the rul, measure twice cut once.
Im guessing with your welding tips along the chassis rather than across the chassis is to compensate for any cracking resulting from the torsional twist of the chassis rails.
it is more when you weld it changes the structure of the metal(due to heat),,and it may crack because of those stresses you were talking about or even vibrations etc...
Quote:
which would mean welding the top and bottom edges of the engine mounts only?
also i forgot,,i put a small stitch about 1" long in the centre,,as in across the chasis(vertical),,but i do not go right across..
Quote:
Is this also why you have a cross member?
i had to put in the xmember cause the front rails of my old girl were twisted due to the old xmember had been cracked out years ago and the old motor had twisted them in,,i used this to straighten them out,,and also like you said,,,gives it more strength,,oh,,and i left the old xmember out,,i plan to use this for serious 4wding,,and i want the suspension to flex,,not the chasis..
Quote:
Do you see any benefit of full welding your mounts to a spreader plate and bolting?
it would add extra strength,,but instead of bolting i would just weld the spreader plate directly along the chasis,,otherwise you would have to stuff around with crush tubes and stuff,,pain in the butt i reckon..this would also give you a lot more weld area,,which in the long run would be a lot stronger,,is a good idea,,i probably should have done this to mine but did not think of it [img]graemlins/headspin.gif[/img] ..
if you want i can take some more pics since it is now fully welded and post them,,not a problem at all,,happy to help..
paz :D
ed, we sell a complete bolt in kit for a chev small block to any parrallel chassis rails utilizing a 4 bolt (2 top/2low) AM-8 (290/401) mechanical locking engine mount. we go thru the same orig holes in the chassis to use the orig crush tubes.
if you cant sort it e me direct for info & $$. tw
Thanks for the providing info on commercially available options TW.
Im actually going to fab mounts similar to Paz's versions (for their beautiful simplicity and low cost). I have the material at the ready, but just need to get the shed space clear.
Wooders (and all),
will keep you informed of the progress.. the next few weeks should see me "maybe" pull the motor... as I've said, this is my back burner project.
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Engine mounts
