FrankenJeep Update - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM

javajeep · #1 28-08-2003

I finally got around to putting my driving light/headlights in FrankenJeep. The non originals that were installed when I bought FrankenJeep must have been about 2 candlepower [ok around 30 watts] and dangerous on unlit Indo highways at night.

If you look at the headlight bracket you can see the old WW2 Jeeps headlights are designed to hinge up and illuminate the engine bay if you have to work on the engine at night.

Now the next problem is how to get a single filament lamp to act as high and low beam - it is absolutely blinding when supplied power from hi and low beam cirecuits

They are way too bright for normal suburban use and I want to attenuate the power getting to the lamp on the low beam circuit outlet and give it full power on the high beam circuit [ still into the single filament ].

Can I do this with a big resistor ?

Suggestions please ?

OTHER STUFF

Here are some sundry pics showing my Camelback water bags and newly installed overhead 'missile switches'

javajeep · #2 08-09-2003

OK the headlights are in.

Going back to the original mounting arrangement should also help with engine cooling due to the gaps around the headlight.

Originally when I bought the Willys a previous owner had mounted the headlights with no air gap and FrankenJeep used to run hot [which required the air vent in the hood and an electric fan to cure]. It will be interesting to see how much difference the additional air venting will make to the engine operating temperature.

FrankenJeep now has 2 x 100 watt main headlights and 4 x 55 watt driving lights

Now re-starting work on rejetting the SU carb next weekend

Wooders · #3 08-09-2003

jeeezzzuzzzzz that's one bright garage

Did you upgrade the wiring loom too?
NFI about the resistor.....

javajeep · #4 08-09-2003

FrankenJeeps wiring was completely upgraded in Oct 2001.

I have additionally installed another separate loom for the driving lights.

The new headlights will get a couple of relays also.

Wooders · #5 08-09-2003

Ahh sounds like it's all done right then.....50-60year old wiring would be....Interesting.....with a LOT of juice flowing through them

Next you'll fit a set of spotties into the "blackouts"

javajeep · #6 08-09-2003

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wooders

Next you'll fit a set of spotties into the "blackouts"

You got it !

I am looking for the kit that replaces the front of the blackout with a lamp so it can be restored to original without chopping up the lamp

Wooders · #7 08-09-2003

What size is it?

javajeep · #8 08-09-2003

I can get a kit from one of the local workshops.

I think it's a 4" dia lamp

TonyG · #9 21-09-2003

It is theoretically easy to dim your single-filament headlights- just use a switch to run them in series.
They will use half the current and go very yellow, but be aware that halogen bulbs don't like to run at too low a voltage and it can result in shortened life.
The practical issues are your problem,
Cheers,

78 CJ7 (lotsa lights!)

javajeep · #10 22-09-2003

Thanks TonyG [my name and initial also by the way] ,

Wiring them up temporarily today

javajeep · #11 10-10-2003

Spent most of last weekend trying to get the engine to run on the new HD6 1.75" SU carb.

We found that an SS metering needle from a 2.6 Land Rover will probably do the trick and it run well to around 3,000 rpm and would then bog down and refuse to rev.

We went back to basics, changed the plugs and static checked the timing to 5.5 deg BTDC .

When we put a timing light on it the timing was around 20 deg BTDC so looks like the centrifugal advance has frozen up or the springs have failed.

So the distributor comes out next weekend.

After 3 months of waiting a range of new SU fuel metering needles arrived from Midel in Sydney. The first set never turned up [typical Indo postal system] and Midel sent a second set free of charge. So once the ignition problem is solved I have a range of needles to experiment with.

I originally went for an SU to get the carb away from the head of the 2.2 litre CJ5 4 cyl. With the Solex I was running I was seeing fuel temps of 47 deg C in the fuel bowl. When I checked Pertamina's web site the fuel vaporizes at ... you guessed it 47 deg C ! This took me ages to diagnose [6 mths] and I would be sitting on the side of the road scratching my head - eventually next time it vapor locked I ripped the top of the carb off and stuck a thermometer in the fuel bowl to check the temp which helped solve the problem.

With the short runner manifold it runs very cool and is helped by lots of thick condensation on the manifold [tropics here] which absorbs a lot of heat when it evaporates so I have ended up with a 'perpetual intercooler' of sorts.

The new 100 watt headlights are bloody awesome !

javajeep · #12 10-10-2003

HERES SOME BACKGROUND ON THE CONVERSION FROM THE JAVAJEEP WEB SITE

http://willyswarroom.javajeep.com/cg...t=1;p=63;st=60

The 1.75" SU carburettor was finally installed on Saturday.

Still getting the jetting right. It is running lean at full throttle at 2000rpm plus with accompanying 'crackly misfire'.

In partial throttle operation the F head hums, I was sitting on 3,000 rpm on the tollway on Saturday night and the engine wanted to go harder.

Under-hood space is a BIG PROBLEM - I have lifted the back of the hood to clear the carb so maybe I do have the first 'Pro Street' F head Willys [thanks Herb for the concept !

] . This is temporary as I will increase the body lift from 1" to 2" which will solve the clearance problem.

I have a richer needle somewhere - just have to find it in my tools and assorted spares

This pic shows the difference in size between the 1.75" SU and the Solex [measured at 1.25"]. The SU is 2.4 sq ins. venturi and the Solex 1.23 sq ins.

FrankenJeep is a work-horse not a show pony so please excuse the fact that my engine bay [or anything else] is not 'show' standard

I just bought a small K&N filter for the breather after the last one disappeared susupected stolen a few weeks ago.

javajeep · #13 10-10-2003

Heres some neat parachute harness Jerry Can holders I bought for US$15 each - ex Indonesian Army.

javajeep · #14 23-10-2003

After 5 months FrankenJeep is running again from when the carb swap was first done ! WOO HOO ! ! !

It only took me 3 months and 2 shipments to get the $6 metering needles I needed

, one of the disadvantages of living in this part of the World. The first shipment was returned to the sender for security reasons - they probably thought the metering needles were detonator pins or something.

The main problem was the waterproof distributor counterweight springs - when I stuck the timing light on it last night the timing and advance was completely normal compared to last time where it immediately went full advance.

We didn't have a new set so an Indo bush mechanic chopped, shortened and rebent them (cringe) but it works like a treat.

A new distributor cap, points, condensor, plugs and I finally installed the Hotchiss 12 volt internal coil in the distributor replacing the 12 v external Mallory Promaster I was using.

The 1.75" HD6 SU carb 'SUCKS' in a good way - this baby flows twice as much air and fuel as the old Solex and because it is a variable venturi the engine is never over carbed , it opens the venturi to as much as it needs . The induction roar is very loud.

If anyone wants to do this conversion use an 'SS' metering needle which is the needle used in the 1 x 1.75" SU HD6 off a 2.6 litre 6 cyl Landrover which is a similar long stroke engine to the Willys.

Mud planned for this weekend !

TODAY IS A GOOD WILLYS DAY !

javajeep · #15 17-11-2003

Well a few things happening this week

~ an extra 1" body lift

~ fuel tank being increased from 40 to 60 litres [plus 40 litres in 2 Jerry cans]

~ the workshop pulled the engine down to dial in the cam properly , as suspected the last rebuild had stuffed up the cam timing with the intake vales opening a little too early. Why ? Because sitting inside the CJ5 Kaiser block is a Mitsubishi Jeep crank, connecting rods and pistons and they won't just bolt in the engines run slightly different cam timing. Had the valves ground and before all this the compression was still 110, 115, 105 and 120 [cyl 3 had a valve not seated properly]

javajeep · #16 25-11-2003

I now have 2wd Low Range ~ I had the transfer case interlock pin removed from the Dana 18 . This should solve some turning circle issues in heavy mud with the front Lock Right locker .

javajeep · #17 01-12-2003

I had to limp home with FrankenJeep on Saturday after a rough day out.

I broke the LHR cotter pin on the Dana 44 and then the extra stress on the front end popped my AVM free wheeling hub on the LHF on the Dana 25.

Luckily with the Detroit locker I still had one wheel able to transfer power and I was able to get home once I was helped out of the 'test hill' by a friend with a CJ5 and the use of my Warn 8274 winch.

Bloody embarassing though , there were 10 Landrover drivers there at the time and they all gave me a bit of a hard time (jokingly)

The free wheeling hub popped a circlip and was clogged full of mud (surprise) so I bit of disassembly and some repacking with grease and it was ok. Much better than the broken axle I thought I had.

The rear diff failure was more serious, I had torn the cotter pin in half and cracked the keyway in the hub flange. I had it replaced with a new one on Sunday to replace the one which had probably been in the diff 20 or 30 yrs.

By the end of the week the whole drivetrain will have breathers , I have finished the front diff breather already.

I will try again next Saturday !

javajeep · #18 06-12-2003

This week I had the following work done

~ 2 speed wipers off an old Landcruiser (I haven't had wipers since the roll over 12 months ago and I replaced the windscreen with an original Willys MB style - this laziness nearly killed me last week, heavy rain at night and the only thing I could see were the rear lights of the car in front of me on the toll way)

~ dual master cylinder installed in the position of the original Willys brake master cylinder (old Landcruiser again)

~ hand throttle (gear selector off a mountain bike)

~ high beam spotlights mounted where my blackout lights were

~ transfer case levers lengthened (too short before due to the 3" body lift)

Today all 5 tyres will get inner tubes and a dynamic balance . The Simex ETs and rims have been on FrankenJeep 2 years and either the rims or tyres or both have got undetectable slow leaks (typically 3 days to go almost flat)