It is a small special gear puller as you can see in the added picture.
In my opinion it is easier to take off the front main cover and to replace the front main seal and to have a look at the timing marks at the same time.
You have to re-adjust the timing with the Timing adapter VM1011 and the Dial indicator gauge VM1013 in the 10mm opening in the rear of the pump anyway.
Why did you take the pump out?
Do you already have the above mentioned tools (VM1011,VM1013)?
They are absolute necessary! But they don't have to be from VM they are universal fit for Bosch VP36.
Sorry for the blurry pic- I just scanned the tools...
__________________
life starts with a turbocharger...
... and it makes fun with a splitter blade wheel chasin' gassers!
Last edited by Deezelweazel; 29-10-2010 at 04:53 AM.
i need to take the pump out because it died- the shaft that the fuel cutoff solenoid lives on snapped, defaulting to the off position. i have arranged a new IP, but need the tools to remove the old one and install the new one.
I am thinking i'll actually take it to a jeep dealership in Cessnock and paying for them to do the actual replace/retime only, and me to reassemble the rest.
__________________
'99 XJ TD
LR&Aux tanks, 3.5"lift, ARB winch bar, X9 winch, Front Lokka, & Snorkel
i need to take the pump out because it died- the shaft that the fuel cutoff solenoid lives on snapped, defaulting to the off position. i have arranged a new IP, but need the tools to remove the old one and install the new one.
I am thinking i'll actually take it to a jeep dealership in Cessnock and paying for them to do the actual replace/retime only, and me to reassemble the rest.
Cessnock eh, when I lived there there was no Jeep dealership....
__________________
JJ
Do it once, Do it right!
95 Sport
IRO/OME/JK 2" lift
IRO SYE
ARB bar
Airflow snorkel
It's definetly not an easy task to replace and adjust the IP.
You have to be very careful and accurate. There is an adjustment on the high side and on the low side.
I'm not telling you, you can't do it by yourself -but it takes some skills.
Have you done that before? If not, you may better stay back.
A false adjustment of 0.1 mm and your engine won't run or like a bag of nuts.
Adjustment is 0.6mm at TDC. no +/-tolerance!
Maybe you can tell what you have done so far and I tell you how to get it back in working order. Pics?
You have to remove the fuel filter, the fuel lines and the vaccum line to gain access to the fuel shut off. and your done.
Doing that is much easier than changing pumps...
The fuel shut off is located below the vaccum and the fuel input line.
Both lines are running parallel.(behind the alternator) if you remove them make sure everything is extremly clean.
__________________
life starts with a turbocharger...
... and it makes fun with a splitter blade wheel chasin' gassers!
Last edited by Deezelweazel; 29-10-2010 at 04:53 AM.
it's the whole shaft inside the fuel pump, not just the shutoff needle. as i can tell, the shaft actually runs the entire length of the pump. inside there is a larger diameter bit of it that's snapped from both ends. it's the bit that is actually controlled by the solenoid.
quite interesting to see how it all works actually
it looks like this from the inside
LONG SPRING
-------(snapped)-II-(snapped)--
LONG SPRING
It's the best i can do at the moment, but if youve ever looked inside one of the pumps, youll understand. it's under the whole internal electronic module, and is not the plunger.
i'll take some photos when i get back to town tomorrow. i have never done an IP replacement before, but time is something i have plenty of, it's just getting the proper tools to do the job right that is the issue
__________________
'99 XJ TD
LR&Aux tanks, 3.5"lift, ARB winch bar, X9 winch, Front Lokka, & Snorkel
Ok, got it.
Its not easy to follow your description because there are so many spring loaded bolts in the VP36- but I guess I know what you mean.
What's your mileage? Did you use some strange fuel?
It's a very uncommon failure.
If you need the proper manual for that procedure, just let me know.
The tools for the timing are universal fit. Maybe you can borrow them from a shop-because they are expensive, if you don't work constantly on Diesels. They fit on any Bosch VP pump.
You will definetly need time for that adjustment.
Wrong adjustment can lead to wrong injection timing with high EGT's. The injection timing is self adjusting. But the basic adjustment has to be done manual.
__________________
life starts with a turbocharger...
... and it makes fun with a splitter blade wheel chasin' gassers!
Last edited by Deezelweazel; 15-03-2010 at 01:28 AM.
no idea the cause of the failure, i'm putting it down to a freak occurrence. Car has 110,000 miles (180,000km) only, so it's a baby!
Is the gear puller also a universal bosch fit? Hopefully i'll have some photos by the end of today. If nothing else, it would be a good experience to do
__________________
'99 XJ TD
LR&Aux tanks, 3.5"lift, ARB winch bar, X9 winch, Front Lokka, & Snorkel
The final question i have is why does the timing matter? The shaft on the pump is keyed, so will only install in one position. Why cant i just do a straight swap out?
the bottom bolt that holds the IP on was a bastard to get off, but is done with the help of a chopped in half ring spanner.
i'm thinking i'll just install the new one, and if need be, take it to maitland diesel (my nearest detroit/mtu diesel dealer)
Can anyone see any serious problems doing this?
__________________
'99 XJ TD
LR&Aux tanks, 3.5"lift, ARB winch bar, X9 winch, Front Lokka, & Snorkel
Make sure the shim between the gear does not fall down in the engine main cover.
It will bust your gears.
The engine is locked with the puller also to ensure it does not move in TDC.
The IP is mounted with three bolts. Movement of this mounting is enough to disalign the IP. Thats where the dial comes in.
Adjustment is so tricky, that there is a alignment difference between used and new gears.
Last edited by Deezelweazel; 17-03-2010 at 10:14 PM.
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Need to source special tool VM.1003
