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  #10  
Old 28-05-2010
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ian
i have done this before on a datsun off road sedan
i used stainless weld rods
in the book how to race prepare off road racers 4 wheel drives and baja buggys
it shows the welding of spider gears and side gears to the carrier with silicon bronze not realy welding but more arc brazing
where your problem lies is all the disimilar metals and heat traeting
yuo will have to pre heat the weld area to at least 150'c
if yuo go down the mig method i would disassemble the diff
weld gears and side gears ie pad weld these units accept for were the gears mesh if you have a oven post heat and let cool down slowly
reassemble and weld the side gears into the carrier preheat with torch post heat wrap in heat blanket to cool slowly
welds to carrier to start and weld to center so 4 weld on each gear so the weld end ont op of each other ie outsides to center this will help to stop cracking at weld craters
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2010
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Hey, Iím surprised more people havenít taken up this offer of help!
Iím currently teaching myself to weld and half way through making myself up some rock sliders.

I'm using:
Cigweld Weldskill 170 inverter
2.5mm E4112 electrodes
Electrode positive
40x40x4mm SHS
50x50x3mm SHS
43mm OD 2.9mm wall Tube

Iím welding at around 60amps, which from what i understand is quite a low current for the job?
Despite the low current, I think my welds are showing signs of being too hot?
Slag is hard to remove from the edges and some are abit sunken.
Iíve let it cool abit between welds.
Should I go lower than 60 amps?





And one of my complete stuff ups that I need to grind back.....
Iíve been having some problems welding the round tube. I'm having trouble holding the electrode steady as i rotate it around the tube.
This is the first thing i have done with any round tube so i think i might practice on some scrap pieces first.
Any general advice?


And one more that is ok as far as i can tell?


Any advice would be great.
(Rust is new, they were clean when welded, havenít had a chance to do any work for afew weeks)
Thanks!
  #12  
Old 05-06-2010
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so far it looks good mate, the settings look alright
i thing its more technique rather than settings
are you dragging the electrode
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  #13  
Old 05-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigermuzza View Post
so far it looks good mate, the settings look alright
i thing its more technique rather than settings
are you dragging the electrode
Thanks, yeah i think i may have been dragging it abit.
Try to avoid it.. yet the electrode ends up touching the workpiece every so often.
Does this cause it to be more sunken?
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Old 05-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mur View Post
Thanks, yeah i think i may have been dragging it abit.
Try to avoid it.. yet the electrode ends up touching the workpiece every so often.
Does this cause it to be more sunken?
na meant you should be dragging it,
its hard to explain in writing
just say you wanted to do a standard fillet weld
going from left to right along the plate
your electrode should be pointed a about 30 degrees to the left dragging it to the right
and there are electrodes that ya can just rest on the job instead of trying to feed it in all the time
ferracraft and ya can also do it with 16tc's

Hope that makes sense
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Old 06-06-2010
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positoin of electrode is important your drag angle should be betweem 20 -30 deg
i would use a 16 tc ==E7016 type rod reverse polarity = electrode +
i would also have used a 3.25 mm rod
at around 110 amps
keep a square arc so arc length of arc = diamter of core wire this will improve the weld finnish
also did you check the polarity settings on the electroded box?







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Old 06-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murray View Post
positoin of electrode is important your drag angle should be betweem 20 -30 deg
i would use a 16 tc ==E7016 type rod reverse polarity = electrode +
i would also have used a 3.25 mm rod
at around 110 amps
keep a square arc so arc length of arc = diamter of core wire this will improve the weld finnish
also did you check the polarity settings on the electroded box?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigermuzza View Post
na meant you should be dragging it,
its hard to explain in writing
just say you wanted to do a standard fillet weld
going from left to right along the plate
your electrode should be pointed a about 30 degrees to the left dragging it to the right
and there are electrodes that ya can just rest on the job instead of trying to feed it in all the time
ferracraft and ya can also do it with 16tc's

Hope that makes sense
ok, think i need to learn some more of the welding terms...
Yep, have been "dragging" the electrode, leaning it in the direction of travel, abit more than 30 deg. about 45 deg, will try cutting it back to between 20 and 30.

On an other point, i have been using are Ferracraft electrodes. So does that mean i can just scrape the end along the surface the whole length of the weld?

Yep, have been aiming for a square arc, but it tends to vary longer or shorter a fair bit....

The electrodes say they can be used DCEP or DCEN.

Thanks for all the help guys.
  #17  
Old 10-06-2010
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Firstly Murray, you are a god!!!!!

I think for this thread to work well you may need to outline a few basic welding terms so the lay man can understand the answers you give i.e Fillet weld and pad weld etc.

It's so the common man can understand the methodology you are try to pervey.
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  #18  
Old 14-06-2010
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thanks Lexx
Five Tips to Improve Stick Welding
Shellfish can make you a better welder. Simply think about CLAMS: Current setting, Length of arc, Angle of electrode, Manipulation of the electrode and Speed of travel. If you're just learning the Stick process, technically called Shielded Metal Arc Welding, remembering these five points will improve your welding technique.
Q: I see the word "duty cycle" on product spec sheets? What does that mean?
A: Duty cycle is the number of minutes out of a 10-minute cycle a welder can operate. For example, a 200 amp DC output at 20 percent duty cycle. It can weld continuously at 200 amps for two minutes, and then must cool for eight minutes to prevent overheating.
Duty cycle and amperage are inversely proportional. Operating at 90 amps, the welder has a 100 percent duty cycle, meaning you can weld without stopping. This inversely proportional rule is true of all Miller machines but does not apply to all machines made by other companies.
]
Q: What type of rod should I use for general work on steel?
A: Common electrodes used for general work include 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024, each of which has specific properties: 6010 electrodes penetrate deeply, while 6013 electrodes penetrate less. For much better bead appearance and work on higher strength steels (say for a hitch), use a 7018 rod. For better penetration on thick material, grind the joint to a 30 degree bevel and make multiple passes. Alternatively, make the first pass with a 6010 rod, then make a "cap" with a 7018. , .
Q: Do I have to remove rust or oil before welding?
A: Stick welding is more forgiving on unclean conditions, but it never hurts to clean parts with a wire brush or grind off excess rust. If you prepare well and have average welding ability, you can make a sound weld. However, even great welding skill cannot overcome poor preparation, as it can lead to cracking, lack of fusion and slag inclusions.
Remember CLAMS
Now that you're ready to weld, remember CLAMS. Bringing all these points together in one moment of welding may seem like a lot to think about, but it becomes second nature with practice. And don't get discouraged! Stick welding got its name not because the electrode looks like a stick, but because EVERYONE sticks the rod to the workpiece when learning how to weld.

Current setting: The correct current, or amperage, setting primarily depends on the diameter and type of electrode selected. For example, a 3.25mm. 6010 rod runs well from 75 to 125 amps, while a 5mm. 7018 rod welds at currents up to 220 amps. The side of the electrode box usually indicates operating ranges. Select an amperage based on the material's thickness, welding position (about 15 percent less heat for overhead work compared to a flat weld) and observation of the finished weld. Most new welding machines have a permanent label that recommends amperage settings for a variety of electrodes and material thicknesses
.
Length of arc: The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. As a good starting point, arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. Holding the electrode too closely decreases welding voltage. This creates an erratic arc that may extinguish itself or cause the rod to freeze, as well as produces a weld bead with a high crown. Excessively long arcs (too much voltage) produce spatter, low deposition rates, undercuts and maybe porosity.
Many beginners weld with too long of an arc, so they produce rough beads with lots of spatter. A little practice will show you that a tight, controlled arc length improves bead appearance, creates a narrower bead and minimizes spatter
.
Angle of travel: Stick welding in the flat, horizontal and overhead position uses a "drag" or "backhand" welding technique. Hold the rod perpendicular to the joint and tilt the top of the electrode in the direction of travel approximately 5 to 15 degrees. For welding vertical up, use a "push" or "forehand" technique and tilt the top of the rod 15 degrees away from the direction of travel.

Manipulation: Each welder manipulates or weaves the electrode in a unique style. Develop your own style by observing others, practicing and creating a method that produces good results for you. Note that on material 1/4 in. and thinner, weaving the rod typically creates a bead that is wider than necessary. In many instances, plain, straight-ahead travel works fine.
To create a wider bead on thicker material, manipulate the electrode from side to side creating a continuous series of partially overlapping circles, or in a "Z," semi-circle or stutter-step pattern. Limit side-to-side motion to 2-1/2 times the diameter of the electrode core. To cover a wider area, make multiple passes or "stringer beads."
When welding vertical up, focus on welding the sides of the joint and the middle will take care of itself. Pause slightly at the side to allow the far side of the bead to cool, the weld puddle to catch up, and to ensure solid "tie-in" to the sidewall. If your weld looks like fish scales, you moved forward too quickly and didn't hold long enough on the sides.

Speed of travel: The proper travel speed produces a weld bead with the desired contour (or "crown"), width and appearance. Adjust travel speed so that the arc stays within the leading one-third of the weld pool. Slow travel speeds produce a wide, convex bead with shallow penetration. Excessively high travel speeds also decrease penetration, create a narrower and/or highly crowned bead, and possibly undercuts.
A few last words of advice. Always remember that you need a good view of the weld puddle. Otherwise, you can't ensure you're welding in the joint, keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle and using the right amount of heat (you can actually see a puddle with too much heat roll out of the joint). For the best view, keep your head off to the side and out of the smoke so you can easily see the puddle.
Also remember that you learn through mistakes. There's no shame in grinding out bad welds. In fact, professional welders create perfect welds by recognizing imperfections, grinding them out and rewelding.


excerps from miller welding
so remember clams it will be a start in the right direction
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