I went over to RC Hobbies on Sat to have a look at the Axial SCX10 TR, I was sure that I wanted this version but then I saw the Axial AX10 Scorpion RTR & I'm thinking I'll have more fun with this one. I didn't like the clearance on the SCX10 from stock so that was the 1st thing I noticed when I saw it in the flesh. However I really like the chassis rail as it's so real.
The more I look the harder it seem's to decide what to get . Anyway I like the above JK and think it could be what I'd like to mount to the AX10.
It seems that no kit has everything you want, looks like I'm going to have to mod anything I get so perhaps I need to find one that has most of what I want and then start the mods once I've had some fun.
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Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
I got the SCX10 build up kit with the big chev body. Then the JK body like above, but the wheelbase is too short so now have to change the control arm lengths to suit, also relocate the shock hoops and do some tweaking with the front end. then maybe put 2.2's on it to make it look a big beefier.
which brings you to around the ax10 area anyhow.. I'm not sure of the wheelbase length but take that into account before you choose what body you want
This is my scx10 at the moment. been playing with spring heights and tyres. Took the foam inserts out completely last night so its 'aired down'
Got the newbright JK shell in the work room, just dont have heaps of time and haven't decided whether or not to cut it down yet... The UTE is good, but the 4 door is pretty slick too.
This has been a bit of a 'bleh' job, raw edges, not much effort for paint as it's just the bash car for now. CD, man the sky's the limit! Just make sure you do it right the first time or you'll be spending more to fix it like anything... At least if, WHEN you roll and destroy this truck it'll cost 1/100 the price of your JEEP haha.
Looks like we all want to do the same thing I just built a scx10 honcho which has a longer weelbase than the one shown, and want one of the new bright jk bodies to go on it but they are not cheep also check the postage cost as it's quite high from some places maybee we can get 2 sent over and save on postage
Looks like we all want to do the same thing I just built a scx10 honcho which has a longer weelbase than the one shown, and want one of the new bright jk bodies to go on it but they are not cheep also check the postage cost as it's quite high from some places maybee we can get 2 sent over and save on postage
Not a bad idea, I'm still doing some looking around to see if their are any other Jeep bodies out their that could be good.
Have you found many other Jeep shells that would look good?
The other thing is timing, I'm going to go to one stop RC hobbies on the weekend and see what they have.
They are selling the AX10 for $399 which is a good price from what I've seen. I plan to layby it and have it paid off by mid July. It's going to be a slow process as the boss isn't too keen on this interest of mine.
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Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
Trying to get a hard shell like a New Bright JK to fit properly is hard on a proper Crawler Chassis. The wheel travel is so great that the tyres foul big time, then there's the mounting the body issue - alot of work in that! I've got a Venom Crawler that I'm about to butcher to make something pretty wild.....when I get a chance!
You should start off with a Honcho SCX10 Kit and just add some longer shocks. Instead of buying longer arms (which are almost impossible to get in Australia as spares) you can drill holes in the chassis rails and mount the uppers and lowers forward roughly 10mm Also see if you can swindle a few stick on weights from your local tyre shop for the chassis - adding the weight makes not only the suspension work harder but the tyres grip better too.
Trying to get a hard shell like a New Bright JK to fit properly is hard on a proper Crawler Chassis. The wheel travel is so great that the tyres foul big time, then there's the mounting the body issue - alot of work in that! I've got a Venom Crawler that I'm about to butcher to make something pretty wild.....when I get a chance!
You should start off with a Honcho SCX10 Kit and just add some longer shocks. Instead of buying longer arms (which are almost impossible to get in Australia as spares) you can drill holes in the chassis rails and mount the uppers and lowers forward roughly 10mm Also see if you can swindle a few stick on weights from your local tyre shop for the chassis - adding the weight makes not only the suspension work harder but the tyres grip better too.
Good point Stu, I'm hearing what your saying.
Sorry mate but I've got a few questions I'm hoping you or someone else can answer.
1: I'd want to put larger tyres on it (so do I need new rims or do you just change the rubber), they come with 1.9 & I think the next size is 2.2 (please correct me if I'm wrong)
2: I would want to put a 55T motor in it to help it crawl better (that seems easy enough), probably do this after I get some fun from the stock motor.
3: Longer shocks (can you give me a link to a longer shock, I've had a look but am not sure what's longer than the stock. How do you know?)
4: Would I also need firmer springs to prevent over compression so the larger rubber dosent rub so bad?)
5: With the longer shocks ... more travel... do you need to do something to the drive shaft so it dosent pop out or wont that happen?
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Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs
Get on the cANZ
Sorry mate but I've got a few questions I'm hoping you or someone else can answer. Too easy
1: I'd want to put larger tyres on it, so do I need new rims or do you just change the rubber), they come with 1.9 & I think the next size is 2.2 (please correct me if I'm wrong) You'll need new rims, 1.9 Tyres = 1.9 Rims, 2.2 Tyres = 2.2 Rims. That is the inch diameter of the rim, not the tyre.
2: I would want to put a 55T motor in it to help it crawl better, that seems easy enough, probably do this after I get some fun from the stock motor. Get a brushless if you can, way better performance, longer battery life, sound better and maintenance free. I'm running a Novak 18.5T Brushless Crawler, awesome kit.
3: Longer shocks - can you give me a link to a longer shock, I've had a look but am not sure what's longer than the stock. How do you know? Shocks are everywhere, have a look on the Axial website, or RPP Hobby. You'd want something around the 100 to 102mm extended for easy bolt on flex. If you go the 124mm ones they give you a bit of grief on the SCX10 chassis. Too much flex and nowhere near enough tuck. You need a good balance.
4: Would I also need firmer springs to prevent over compression so the larger rubber dosent rub so bad? No, keep them soft and long
5: With the longer shocks ... more travel... do you need to do something to the drive shaft so it dosent pop out or wont that happen? Naa, they've all got bucket loads of shaft travel. Just remember to use loctite on ALL grub screws.
Happy to help. I love the RC stuff, very addictive.
Here's a few shots of some 1.9's next to some 2.2's. The ones mounted to my Venom Crawler are also 2.2's its just the tyres are slightly bigger. (didnt like the Venom sticker so used the left over SCX10 Axial ones! !) Also de anodized the alloy parts as it was a gay fluro green colour Raw Alloy looks mint
One of the guys 'out the back' who works at Mild to Wild RC who I use locally did it for me. I wasnt a huge fan of the Red or Green colours for these kits so I said if he do anno'd all the alloy bits I'd buy it lol! Gave the dude out the back a few cans of Wild Turkey! haha! These venom's he sells for around $180 - bargain if you ask me. They're an amazing little piece of kit - fully switchable diff locks like an ARB locker FRONT AND REAR!! I did blow the plastic front diff carrier though as I run an ultra strong servo and brushless cralwer motor - unlike the mighty SCX10's the Venom's dont have a slipper clutch, I wish it did! Bought some metal diff carriers to fix it up though
To de anno I think you use a product called Greased LIghtening - you bring it to the boil or close to it and drop in the parts. It just magically removes the annodizing. Quite amazing to watch actually. Take a look here
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New Bright Jeep JK (looks good)
. Anyway I like the above JK and think it could be what I'd like to mount to the AX10.
!) Also de anodized the alloy parts as it was a gay fluro green colour 
Raw Alloy looks mint 
