Stereo cutting in & out then nothing, what the ???

[anthonygubbin]

Hi Guys anyone had this with their aftermarket decks, my stereo will cut in and out sometimes and then nothing, but a doonk, doonk noise every twenty or thirty seconds. I fix it by turning the unit of and on a few times until it goes away. I don't know if it is the amp or the head unit. It happens all levels of sound so I suspect the amp is not the problem. Sometimes it happens soon as the ignition is switched on. I want to try and identify the prob before I fork out for a new unit or amp.

Regards A

[Mudmonster]

double check the power and earth wires to both the amp and the CD player, something is shorting out most likely to do with the amp.
and check the remote wire to the amp
while you have the CD Player out double check all the speaker wires as there could be 2 of the speaker wires touching

only takes one small strand of wire to short something out.

it would be something simple

what size amp (in RMS) and gauge wire you running

[anthonygubbin]

double check the power and earth wires to both the amp and the CD player, something is shorting out most likely to do with the amp.
and check the remote wire to the amp
while you have the CD Player out double check all the speaker wires as there could be 2 of the speaker wires touching

only takes one small strand of wire to short something out.

it would be something simple

what size amp (in RMS) and gauge wire you running

45rms x 4. Cable would be equivalent to 8BS. It has only done it for the last 3or 4 months prior to that all good. It has me stumped why it does not do it all the time. It sometimes can go days without any problem and then like today do it seven times.
I thought it may have been the drivers front speaker so I replaced that and still did it. I will check the drivers side rear as that was the only other speaker I have ever had to remove since the install. I will also remove the passenger seat and have a good look to see if anything is not right.

Thanks Mud

regards A

[junglejuice]

When it does do it does the amp's light indicate an issue, some amps change the colour of the light or have a seperate fault indicator, also check to see if the amp is still powered up when it does cut out.
Do you use any of the speaker outputs from the head unit or just the amp?
Double check all the grounds especially the one near the battery make sure that they are all good and clean.
The main issue with car stereos are bad or poor grounds.
Another thing that you can do is disconnect one speaker at a time and see if that changes anything.
One last thing, does the head unit indicate anything different when it does cut out?

JJ

[anthonygubbin]

When it does do it does the amp's light indicate an issue, some amps change the colour of the light or have a seperate fault indicator, also check to see if the amp is still powered up when it does cut out.
Do you use any of the speaker outputs from the head unit or just the amp?
Double check all the grounds especially the one near the battery make sure that they are all good and clean.
The main issue with car stereos are bad or poor grounds.
Another thing that you can do is disconnect one speaker at a time and see if that changes anything.
One last thing, does the head unit indicate anything different when it does cut out?

JJ

I think the amp still has power as I only have noise when the amp is connected, including the faint doonk noise. All the speakers run through the amp and are connected from the head unit with Stinger RCA cables. I have just changed the rear speaker as I suggested but the braids on it looked fine and I could not make it cut in or out by jiggling the braids. The head unit has no writing like normal when it cuts out.
One thing I did just think of is I have a Jaycar filter connected to the battery and and to the head unit main feed, which was not always on there. Could that be causing problem?

I might set it going now on high with the aux battery overide connected and see if I can get it to do it. That way I can try a few things.

regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Ok so I have a light that says protection on the amp. I currently have it cranking on full, so now need to wait and see if it will do the doonk, doonk thing. If it does it I will look for the light like you say JJ. Thanks guys. It could be a long night for me...

regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Quick update it is starting to cut in and out. Now I need to wait for it to cut out completly. The amp is pretty hot and I am wondering if it is the amp, maybe it is buggard? Does running it really loud and getting it hot over a period of 12 months shorten it's life? Ok so it is really hot now that I can not hold my hand on it for too long.

regards A

[Dudzy]

Intergage (user here) had a similar problem and it ended up being one of the rings inside the ciggy lighter shorting the system.

[anthonygubbin]

Intergage (user here) had a similar problem and it ended up being one of the rings inside the ciggy lighter shorting the system.

How does that work? Did you have the power coming throught the lighter? Or was that causing a bad connection and somehow effecting the amp? How did you know it was the lighter Dudz? That could make sense as it seems to be fine again now and the amp is hot as Satan's BBQ as one member said once. It may possibly occur more when driving which the bumps could be jiggling the lighter. If I can get it to do the cutting out again I will pull the lighter and see if that changes anything. The other thing is I have connected a CB through on the back of the 20A aux port maybe something there is touching. Keep it coming guys I may just get the problem fixed without new equipment, that would be nice.

Regards A

[Mudmonster]

what brand amp is it??
i would say the amp is buggered, i had a problem with one a few years back couldnt take it over a certain level or it would cut out, it was a cheap amp.
a decant amp will have a fair amount of weight in it.

sometimes they cut out when they cant get enough power, but 8g would be enough to run a amp with that power,
i had to go to a zero gauge to run my amp 1800w RMS amp.

if it not too hard try just running the speakers with no amp.

the amp shouldnt get too hot, does it have a burning smell to it??

[anthonygubbin]

what brand amp is it??
i would say the amp is buggered, i had a problem with one a few years back couldnt take it over a certain level or it would cut out, it was a cheap amp.
a decant amp will have a fair amount of weight in it.

sometimes they cut out when they cant get enough power, but 8g would be enough to run a amp with that power,
i had to go to a zero gauge to run my amp 1800w RMS amp.

if it not too hard try just running the speakers with no amp.

the amp shouldnt get too hot, does it have a burning smell to it??

Can't smell anything and it has been playing on full for well over an hour mind you the dog just farted and I can smell that, LOL. It is really hot I can not hold my hand on it for more than a few seconds.

I can not get the damn thing to cut out now. If it was the amp should it not have played up and cut out by now after more than an hour. Would it be hotter in the car while I am driving well under the seat anyway? It is about 30deg in the garage at the moment so I would have thought that being pretty warm. The amp is an Audioline 400w, 45rms. I have the gains set on about 50-60%, so it is not even drivinng at full power. So yerr 8g should be and has been ok. It was not expensive but was one of the only amps that I could fit under my seat, apart from a second hand eBay one that packed up on the very first day.

Update it is so hot I barely touch and still not cutting out.

regards A

[Dudzy]

How does that work? Did you have the power coming throught the lighter? Or was that causing a bad connection and somehow effecting the amp? How did you know it was the lighter Dudz? That could make sense as it seems to be fine again now and the amp is hot as Satan's BBQ as one member said once. It may possibly occur more when driving which the bumps could be jiggling the lighter. If I can get it to do the cutting out again I will pull the lighter and see if that changes anything. The other thing is I have connected a CB through on the back of the 20A aux port maybe something there is touching. Keep it coming guys I may just get the problem fixed without new equipment, that would be nice.

Regards A

With the lighter out there was a small ring inside that fell off somewhere and it was rattling around, his head unit just kept flickering on and off along with his antenna going up and down constantly. Once we pulled the little ring out of the lighter hole it was fixed, a few guys at his work explained that the rattling around was shorting it or triggering it to turn on and off. Very strange but its working now.

Have a look inside and see if its broken or maybe the back wires could be buggered.

[anthonygubbin]

With the lighter out there was a small ring inside that fell off somewhere and it was rattling around, his head unit just kept flickering on and off along with his antenna going up and down constantly. Once we pulled the little ring out of the lighter hole it was fixed, a few guys at his work explained that the rattling around was shorting it or triggering it to turn on and off. Very strange but its working now.

Have a look inside and see if its broken or maybe the back wires could be buggered.

I will have a suss. I am about to go for a drive to see if I get it to cut out. I have taken the lighter out now. I might pull it in a few minutes and see if there is anything inside it.

I am beginning to think it can not be the amp unless there is something loose inside it, which only moves when the vehicle is mobile. It is so hot and still will not cut out.

Update just been for a 15km drive engine hot, everything hot and it still will not cut out. Now the thing is deciding to make a liar of me.
Only thing I have done is replaced a rear speaker and trouble is I can not remember now if I did that this eve before it cut out or after.
Is it possible for a speaker to be buggard and cause this problem and not have visable signs.

[Dudzy]

Good luck mate hopefully it is something simple to fix

[anthonygubbin]

Good luck mate hopefully it is something simple to fix

Well I am thinking I have to now rule out the amp. Hot as, over 2hrs playing loud enough that is basically too loud and starts to hurt my ears when I am driving. I am also nearly thinking I can rule out the head unit for same reasons except heat. It has to be something to do with wires. It did cut out for a few seconds and the ignition was on and not in acc and it started straight back up when I turned it to acc. I have since turned it to on again to see if I can get the problem to occur. I am wondering if the switch wire on the deck is playing up. Might be my next port of call. The mystery deepens. Could it be a dicky radio fuse?

regards A

[junglejuice]

The head unit has no writing like normal when it cuts out.
regards A

So the head unit goes blank?

[anthonygubbin]

So the head unit goes blank?

Yes.

regards A

[Cypher]

I'd be double checking the ground for the cd player, and maybe even run a fresh one to a bolt under the dash somewhere just to rule it out. Where is the current ground coming from because in the loom there can be wires that appear to be at ground but they're for the headlight dimmer or power antenna or some nonsense. Actually thats another question, does it do it more often with the headlights on?

[anthonygubbin]

I'd be double checking the ground for the cd player, and maybe even run a fresh one to a bolt under the dash somewhere just to rule it out. Where is the current ground coming from because in the loom there can be wires that appear to be at ground but they're for the headlight dimmer or power antenna or some nonsense. Actually thats another question, does it do it more often with the headlights on?

Headlights on that is one I will try tonight. The earth is inside the engine bay bolted over the wheel arch. If I am still getting grief today, (last night I could not get it to happen, properly) I will run another earth straight to the battery.
I am kind of suspecting and I may be way off but am thinking maybe the ignition barrel? It does seem a little loose, by that I mean the individual locations eg, acc, etc are not always exact and tight. For example I can shift the key a little bit backwards or forwards to stop the annoying door chime with the keys in. I know someone else had a problem with their a few weeks back and it was flattening their battery.

Regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Good luck mate hopefully it is something simple to fix

Little update. I have just driven over two hours stop starts etc. I may be in luck I'z thinking the stereo has not cut out all day. Now the only two thing I ended up changing yesterday and last night was two speakers and cable tying the Jaycar suppressor so that it could not move around inside the engine bay. Prior it was just supported by the wires attached near the battery.
After I changed the first speaker it was still doing the prob. Late last night I replaced the drivers rear one too. Soon after that I cable tied the suppressor. Last night like I suggested I had it cranking for three hours on full. The amp got extremly hot but did not cut out. So I have ruled out the amp. I have pretty much ruled out the deck aswell after not experiencing the issue today.

My guess is either the speaker had an internal fault although it sounded fine or the suppressor wires were being pulled while the vehicle was moving. It did cut out breifly while the vehicle was stationary but not enough to not keep playing. I will have to wait and see. Hopefully it is like you said Dudzy a simple fix, which has been solved. Thanks for the suggestions boys.

Regards A

[Dudzy]

Good to hear A

[anthonygubbin]

Good to hear A

Yerr it is good. Now to sort this damn compressor relay. Where's JJ when you need him.....?

regards A

[junglejuice]

Yerr it is good. Now to sort this damn compressor relay. Where's JJ when you need him.....?

regards A

I'm right here......

[anthonygubbin]

I'm right here......


Having trouble with the switch wire JJ for the comp. The comp will run regardless of the switch wire being connected or not. Maybe something to do with normally open relay? What can I do to correct that? Swap the earth and switch wires on the relay? The Jaycar staff member had little knowledge unfortunatly unlike some of their staff I have dealt with before. If I touch the switch wire on the in-power side of the cut off switch from the battery it makes a buzzing noise.

Also how is this re the Narva relay well the Autobarn girl said when I took it back yerr Narva are not real good, go figure and they are selling the gear.


Regards A

[junglejuice]

You have got me with that one, how can the comp run when the relay is not turned on and it is a n/o relay.
Post up a pic of the relay and the setup so I can see how you have it hooked up, it will save a lot of confusion....

[anthonygubbin]

You have got me with that one, how can the comp run when the relay is not turned on and it is a n/o relay.
Post up a pic of the relay and the setup so I can see how you have it hooked up, it will save a lot of confusion....

Here is a pic JJ without wire conected as once insatlled it is tucked away. I have since swaped the relay and same deal.

bottom is 30
middle is 87
top is 87a
left is 85
right is 86

Now when I wire it up the two side ones are self explanitory switch & earth.

However the problem is with the main feed and the output wire to the comp. If I wire in the top post to the comp and the middle to the power nothing happens even with the switch on. This was the configuration Jaycar told me to use.
If I do it what I believe the right way 30 is power in and the top (87a) AKA N/O, hit the switch wire and it should start up but nothing.
Put the comp (+) wire to the middle post and leave the feed on the bottom (30) it will power up with switch wire not connected. However if I then connect the switch wire I get a buzz from the relay and the comp will switch off.

The relay is both a N/O and a N/C according to Jaycar.

[anthonygubbin]

If anyone else has thoughts on this please feel free to comment.

I am considering another option but will wait to see what people think about the current way before I suggest my next idea.

regards A

[junglejuice]

Here is a pic JJ without wire conected as once insatlled it is tucked away. I have since swaped the relay and same deal.

bottom is 30
middle is 87
top is 87a
left is 85
right is 86

Now when I wire it up the two side ones are self explanitory switch & earth.

However the problem is with the main feed and the output wire to the comp. If I wire in the top post to the comp and the middle to the power nothing happens even with the switch on. This was the configuration Jaycar told me to use.
If I do it what I believe the right way 30 is power in and the top (87a) AKA N/O, hit the switch wire and it should start up but nothing.
Put the comp (+) wire to the middle post and leave the feed on the bottom (30) it will power up with switch wire not connected. However if I then connect the switch wire I get a buzz from the relay and the comp will switch off.

The relay is both a N/O and a N/C according to Jaycar.

Ok, I have one of the Jaycar relays in front of me and there seems to be something different to your description, on mine 87 is the outside leg and 87a is the inside leg, this is the standard arrangement.
The pinouts are as follows
30 - common
87 - N/O
87a - N/C
85 - coil
86 - coil

Now the coils on these relays are not polarised which means it doesn't matter which is positive and which is negative.
So you wire the compressor negative direct to a solid ground (not earth as there is no earth in a car) and the positive for the compressor will be connected to 87.
You need to also run a fused positive to the pressure switch and on to the relay, say 85, if you want to include an on/off switch connect the switch inline between the fuse and the pressure switch.
86 will be connected to ground.
Now when there is a postive applied to the pressure switch and the tank is empty it should turn on the relay which in turn will start the compressor, when the pressure exceeds the pressure switch's preset pressure it will turn off the relay stopping the compressor.
If it were me I would include the on/off switch.
It is a really easy circuit....

Cheers, JJ

[anthonygubbin]

Ok so tried most of that. Soon as I connect the middle post and the bottom #30 the comp started up until the pressure switch cut it out. Mind you the other two, on the relay both ground and switch wire are not even connected.
The way you said is the way it was last night and did not work, properly why, I am blowed if I know.
I am thinking it is better to go back to the old system as I don't think the way I have it can use a relay properly. I have no idea why it will not work as it should. The only thing I can think of is the switch won't suit the relay.

Could I possibly have the wires on the cut off switch on the wrong side? That is the only thing I can think of but if all it does is break the circuit I can't see how.

Would there be any point just having the relay bridging the two main + wires?

regards A:confused:

[junglejuice]

Grab a multimeter and check the continuity of the contacts to verify the N/O and N/C status.
I am confused how the pressure switch can shut off the compressor if it isn't connected to the power side anymore as it is now in the control side?

[anthonygubbin]

All sorted JJ. I did all that with the MM. Discovered that the prob for me was I needed to connect the + switch on the relay (thin red) to a + power on the incoming side of the relay. I was trying to use the switch on the pump but of course how can it switch if there is now power at the switch before the relay itself actually passes the current, my bad and limited knowledge.
So today I am going back to Jaycar to buy a rocker switch and 5a fused line.

Thanks again.

Regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Hey JJ would it matter if I leave the switch wire off and used the normally closed post? Will the relay still perform the same job, more or less? Excuse my niavety around relays. I am thinking that if I put another switch that will make three in total. If you reckon is is really a must then I will get the bits in my break.
Thanks JJ.

regards A

[anthonygubbin]

My stereo is cutting out again after weeks of being fine. Any ideas where to restart looking to fix the prob? This time no matter how much I switch it off and on again it still does not work.

regards A

[anthonygubbin]

My stereo is cutting out again after weeks of being fine. Any ideas where to restart looking to fix the prob? This time no matter how much I switch it off and on again it still does not work.

regards A

Update it has something to do with the amp protection mode, any ideas??

regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Ok think it is all good now I hope :rolleyes:. I played around with the speakers wires which may or may not have fixed the prob. However I also played around with the remote wire and I suspect that it may have been touching the outside of the amp causing a fault. This seems more likely as I reckon I read some Wrangler posts which gave similar symptoms to their stereos. Time will tell.

regards A