adjusting brake bias on 1999 tdi

[mud_slut]

hi,

i changed my shoes and cylinders not long ago and not for some reason my back left is locking up before any of my other wheels, even unintentionally any suggestions to fixing this one ?

thanks in advance

[amlav]

Did you bleed the air from the system ????
Cheers,
Andrei

[layback40]

Did you bleed the air from the system ????
Cheers,
Andrei

& replace the fluid?
It sometimes takes a while to bed the brakes in.

[mud_slut]

& replace the fluid?
It sometimes takes a while to bed the brakes in.

yes completely changed the fluid over. i think i need to adjust my rears properly, i tried adjusting the rear left (backing it off) one and now it only locks up a little bit. What is the correct process for adjusting the rear brakes? ie; back them off completely and then work the adjuster cog in intervals of 2 on each side until comfortable with braking ?


also ive noticed there is an area where the handbrake (im guessing) can be adjusted with a long bolt and a nut. what is process for adjusting this ? or do i just leave it how it is ?

thanks in advance

[layback40]

yes completely changed the fluid over. i think i need to adjust my rears properly, i tried adjusting the rear left (backing it off) one and now it only locks up a little bit. What is the correct process for adjusting the rear brakes? ie; back them off completely and then work the adjuster cog in intervals of 2 on each side until comfortable with braking ?


also ive noticed there is an area where the handbrake (im guessing) can be adjusted with a long bolt and a nut. what is process for adjusting this ? or do i just leave it how it is ?

thanks in advance
How about you down load the service manual & have a read. You can find it on the AJOR home page or go to the Great lakes jeep site.

[amlav]

Hand brake should be readjusted only after all new brake pads are readjusted and set.
It is fairly simple : adjust brake pads cogs until you reach to just a slight friction of pads and break drums with no brake pedal pressed than you will have to do the bleeding of air from the system (requires 1 extra person to press and release the pedal) .
The bleeding of air is as follows: press and hold brake pedal and undo the bleeding screw a bit until pedal goes down to the floor.
Release pedal only after screwing back the bleeding screw.
Repeat above steps until only brake fluid flows out trough the bleeding screw
While doing this keep an eye on the brake liquid and top up as needed .
Once this is done go and readjust hand brake handle .
cheers
Andrei

[mud_slut]

How about you down load the service manual & have a read. You can find it on the AJOR home page or go to the Great lakes jeep site.

Cheers, shall do . I have a copy of the Haynes manual that i used for replacing the shoes and cylinders however a few people have mentioned that its fair rubbish.

[mud_slut]

Hand brake should be readjusted only after all new brake pads are readjusted and set.
It is fairly simple : adjust brake pads cogs until you reach to just a slight friction of pads and break drums with no brake pedal pressed than you will have to do the bleeding of air from the system (requires 1 extra person to press and release the pedal) .
The bleeding of air is as follows: press and hold brake pedal and undo the bleeding screw a bit until pedal goes down to the floor.
Release pedal only after screwing back the bleeding screw.
Repeat above steps until only brake fluid flows out trough the bleeding screw
While doing this keep an eye on the brake liquid and top up as needed .
Once this is done go and readjust hand brake handle .
cheers
Andrei

thanks for the advice shall try this one on the weekend :)

[mud_slut]

bled the brakes and backed off the shoes evenly and the car handles x10 better than before :) did notice that ive put DOT 4 in instead of DOT 3 which is stamped ontop of the master cylinder...looks like ill be changing the fluid again next weekend..

thanks for all the help again

[kyphonii]

I think dot 4 is ok in dot 3, just can't put dot 3 into dot 4 brakes.

[layback40]

Cheers, shall do . I have a copy of the Haynes manual that i used for replacing the shoes and cylinders however a few people have mentioned that its fair rubbish.
A few people & me !!
Having thought about it for a few days, a couple of suggestions/comments;
If the main springs have become weak over time, the bias will have gone a little towards the back.
The new shoes could have had the leading edge filed off at 45deg. This used to be done back in the old days of cars with drums all round to stop them grabbing. When I did my drums a few months ago, I just got the file out & did it ~ old habit. Mine didnt grab after the replacement.
If you have an issue, it probably would be possible to design a modification using a proportioning valve that was used on some minis/1100/1500/1800. The valve worked on the rear sway bar & reduced the fluid pressure to the back brakes when the weight came off in heavy braking so preventing rear lock up.

Dot 4 & dot 3 fluid are basically interchangeable in your situation. They can be mixed without adverse effects. The main difference being the boiling point of the fluid. As you are not using it in a V8 super car or a F1 its unlikely you will have a problem with extream temperatures.
Silicone fluids can not be mixed with conventional fluid.

[mud_slut]

A few people & me !!
Having thought about it for a few days, a couple of suggestions/comments;
If the main springs have become weak over time, the bias will have gone a little towards the back.
The new shoes could have had the leading edge filed off at 45deg. This used to be done back in the old days of cars with drums all round to stop them grabbing. When I did my drums a few months ago, I just got the file out & did it ~ old habit. Mine didnt grab after the replacement.
If you have an issue, it probably would be possible to design a modification using a proportioning valve that was used on some minis/1100/1500/1800. The valve worked on the rear sway bar & reduced the fluid pressure to the back brakes when the weight came off in heavy braking so preventing rear lock up.

Dot 4 & dot 3 fluid are basically interchangeable in your situation. They can be mixed without adverse effects. The main difference being the boiling point of the fluid. As you are not using it in a V8 super car or a F1 its unlikely you will have a problem with extream temperatures.
Silicone fluids can not be mixed with conventional fluid.

Thanks for the feedback, i think i might replace the springs as a precautionary measure, for $30- $50 the piece of mind / eliminating one potential cause might be the way to go.

That haynes manual can be a joke i have to pull my fan belt off and it doesnt even have the proper belt diagram or how to remove the serpentine belt. Only has instructions on how pull off the v belt for the petrol models!?!?!?

I think dot 4 is ok in dot 3, just can't put dot 3 into dot 4 brakes.


Thanks also for the feedback on the brake fluid. My hilux mates were suggesting i could blow the seals on the master cylinder if i ran dot4 in a dot 3 system. Just out of curiosity does the clutch have its own master cylinder ? if so where does it sit. i cant seem to find it anywhere.

[kyphonii]

Thanks for the feedback, i think i might replace the springs as a precautionary measure, for $30- $50 the piece of mind / eliminating one potential cause might be the way to go.

That haynes manual can be a joke i have to pull my fan belt off and it doesnt even have the proper belt diagram or how to remove the serpentine belt. Only has instructions on how pull off the v belt for the petrol models!?!?!?




Thanks also for the feedback on the brake fluid. My hilux mates were suggesting i could blow the seals on the master cylinder if i ran dot4 in a dot 3 system. Just out of curiosity does the clutch have its own master cylinder ? if so where does it sit. i cant seem to find it anywhere.
The blowing seals is new to me. Dot 4 is just the later version, Just better spec fluid.
Put the blowing seals in the urban myth file.

[layback40]

I think dot 4 is ok in dot 3, just can't put dot 3 into dot 4 brakes.

If you have a read of the Australian standard for brake fluids you will find that dot 3 (type 1 in Australia) & dot 4 (type2) can be mixed either way. You could also check the ASME standard. :wink:

"My hilux mates were suggesting i could blow the seals on the master cylinder if i ran dot4 in a dot 3 system."


My guess is your hilux mates cant even read !! Sounds like way too much pub talk !! Doesnt take much intelligence to drive a hilux !! :rolleyes:;)

"Just out of curiosity does the clutch have its own master cylinder ? if so where does it sit. i cant seem to find it anywhere." Yes there is, its next to the brake booster.

[mud_slut]

If you have a read of the Australian standard for brake fluids you will find that dot 3 (type 1 in Australia) & dot 4 (type2) can be mixed either way. You could also check the ASME standard. :wink:

"My hilux mates were suggesting i could blow the seals on the master cylinder if i ran dot4 in a dot 3 system."


My guess is your hilux mates cant even read !! Sounds like way too much pub talk !! Doesnt take much intelligence to drive a hilux !! :rolleyes:;)

"Just out of curiosity does the clutch have its own master cylinder ? if so where does it sit. i cant seem to find it anywhere." Yes there is, its next to the brake booster.

Yeah i think your right on the money there layback i havent found the official Australian standard but Wiki and FMCSA agree with you. Hilux drivers...dont know anything

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_4

http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/administration/fmcsr/fmcsrruletext.aspx?reg=571.116

The blowing seals is new to me. Dot 4 is just the later version, Just better spec fluid.
Put the blowing seals in the urban myth file.

hahah yeah urban myth indeed ^^

thanks again guys

[mud_slut]

Found the master cylinder the previous owner had covered it witg heat shield

[bruggz351]

The blowing seals is new to me. Dot 4 is just the later version, Just better spec fluid.
Put the blowing seals in the urban myth file.


No no... it's true...

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRrSvp5cxKf_0R4-ne2uGG8Hd6XFwqxDaePBIvDflNXgYyelwy53g

:lol:

[The Smiths]

Found the master cylinder the previous owner had covered it witg heat shield

It should have the little silver bag on it

[mud_slut]

jusr regarding wheel cylinders how do you determine their size. a lot of places refer to bore size. so tonight i pulled one of the origional wheel cylinders apart and measures one of the pistons that was inside. its diameter was approx 20.6 mm and had 13/16 stamped ontop of it. would this be the correct measurement for wheel cylinders ?

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=294&pictureid=1450

[layback40]

jusr regarding wheel cylinders how do you determine their size. a lot of places refer to bore size. so tonight i pulled one of the origional wheel cylinders apart and measures one of the pistons that was inside. its diameter was approx 20.6 mm and had 13/16 stamped ontop of it. would this be the correct measurement for wheel cylinders ?

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=294&pictureid=1450

Thats interesting ! Mine had 3/4 stamped on them. If you fit 3/4" ones it will reduce the bias to the back just a little.
What year is yours? There maybe a change on the later ones.

If you are in that far, you may as well just lightly hone the bores & put new cups in or if you wish to replace them ~ use 3/4" cylinders. It will improve the bias.

[mud_slut]

hey layback i have a 99 tdi..im going to contact jeep just to confirm all the specs

thanks again for all the advice :)

[mud_slut]

hey just thought i would close this one off..took the car to the brake place yesterday with origional shoes and cylinders, go them to put it up on the hoist and have a look..turns out i had put the shoes on back to front..i know rookie mistake..i had a toyota mechanic helping me and we thought we had it on right..so after driving around for nearly 2 months with funny brakes that would

-lock up under braking at low speed (car parks etc)
-feel like they are slipping at sudden braking (any speed)
-very variable in brake peddle pressure

that was my fix...cost $120 at the local brake place and the car pulls up like new :)