Starting issue!!!!!!

[xj jorg]

I know this has been done to death but the search doent really come up with any help with my problem.Drove to work other morn my XJ was fine.When I knocked off it started fine but after driving for about 50 mtrs it spluttered and any time I tried to give it any loud pedal it carried on more.After a couple of min trying to drive it,the issue slowly got better and got it home.Now it wont start at all.Replaced crank shaft sensor and it was still there and then I replaced the coil and still nothing.All my fuses are fine and cap,rotor and leads are fine.When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump hum for a couple of sec like normal.Checked the fuel rail bleed screw and a couple of drops is all that comes out.Am I looking at a pump failure or something else?

Thanks in advance for any help

[Hunno]

Yer should a fair pressure that it sqirts out. could be block filters, lines & or pump.

[xj jorg]

That's what I'm leaning towards.Just checked a few things and it also looks like I have no spark.Does a cam sensor have any links to fuel or spark.I'm under the impression the crank sensor does,but does the cam sensor have any say?

[Raisins78]

Could also be the pressure regulator. Mine was stuffed so I replaced it with an external adjustable one. So far its been smooth as silk to start, idle and drive.

[xj jorg]

Could also be the pressure regulator. Mine was stuffed so I replaced it with an external adjustable one. So far its been smooth as silk to start, idle and drive.

The existing regulator is on the tank module isn't it? How did you set up the new regulator?

[homeoffive]

The existing regulator is on the tank module isn't it? How did you set up the new regulator?

Has the XJ got a sock filter in tank,know the TJ's have the problem of the sock blocking other XJ owners will soon add if this is true.

[xj jorg]

It does have a flat filter at the bottom of the module which was replaced with the when my pump failed about 15,000 ks ago.

[rainman]

That's what I'm leaning towards.Just checked a few things and it also looks like I have no spark.Does a cam sensor have any links to fuel or spark.I'm under the impression the crank sensor does,but does the cam sensor have any say?

cam sensor can also cause no spark/ no injector. failure of either crank or cam sensor causes same symptoms.
any codes?

[xj jorg]

cam sensor can also cause no spark/ no injector. failure of either crank or cam sensor causes same symptoms.
any codes?

No codes.Just tried cranking this morn and pump starts but check the fuel rail screw and nothing is coming out now.Will get the wife to crank while I check spark from the coil and to the leads just to check any spark at all.I hope the ecu hasn't died.

[xj jorg]

OK getting no spark at all from the coil.So no fuel pressure or spark

[anthonygubbin]

Fuel pumps issues are all too common. The pressure in the rail will depend on your year model. It sounds like you have an update. On the update the fuel pressure in the rail will come out like a squirt (Hunno said that). If you's is preupdate date then the return line may mean that you have no residual pressure once the engine is shut off. You can get pumps locally for the update but the fuel pump kist are little harder to get and that is what you will need if the pump is buggard. Kits have both strainers. It seems odd that both issues occured at the same time,. Given that I would look at the spark issue first.

Regards A

[xj jorg]

Have ordered a new cam and crank sensor as the crank sensor I had was not new but a spare that was fine last time it was used to diagnose another problem in the past and the cam sensor I have never had to change in the 4 years I have owned it.Cross my fingers that it will fix the problem but if not back to square 1.Thanks for all the feedback.

[xj jorg]

Well I got it running again.Turned out both crank shaft and came sensors were the issue.Gotta be pretty unlucky to have both fail but did find that one of the crank sensor wires was rubbed through exposing the inner cable which could have resulted in that failing.Thought I would post the outcome in case someone else has the same issue.

[Mitch]

Is the outer plastic caseing of ur coil cracked??If so it can short out on the block and fry things like CAS &other sensors A good way to check for shorting elec components is to run the engine a nite in complete darkness and look for sparks.Worked for me in the past.

[xj jorg]

Is the outer plastic caseing of ur coil cracked??If so it can short out on the block and fry things like CAS &other sensors A good way to check for shorting elec components is to run the engine a nite in complete darkness and look for sparks.Worked for me in the past.

Yeh tried that in the dark Mitch.Now its starts and drives fine till you get it anywhere past half throttle its starts coughing and carrying on.Could that be a TPS issue? I put in new coil in and now a new cap and rotor as well.

[Raisins78]

The existing regulator is on the tank module isn't it? How did you set up the new regulator?
No, the pressure regulator is on the front end of the fuel rail (OBD1)

[xj jorg]

No, the pressure regulator is on the front end of the fuel rail (OBD1)

Mine is a 98 update OBD2 which would mean its part of the module assembly?

[anthonygubbin]

Might be time for a pump and filters. Filter/regs are available locally. Pump kits for a 98 may need to come from the States. I managed to get a pump by itself locally but the strainers are hard to get here for the 98 models. You can get kits but because of those two strainers on the 98 the price is huge. I bought a Goss pump for a 96 and it cost me $105 the same in a 98 was over $200. Only difference was the strainers.

Regards A

[xj jorg]

Have started pricing pump and strainer ass.Rock auto have got them reasonably priced so could be were im heading.

[xj jorg]

Well to update in case someone else is having similar issues pump ass arrived and all is good again.So it seems I was lucky enough to have a multiple failure.Now it starts first turn every time and can rev all the way to redline again.